RZ ProIID focus issue ref: Nippon Clinic NYC

[ocarlo]

I just put in my RZ ProIID kit (body, prism finder, 3 lenses) today at Nippon Clinic for CLA. I run a P45 off this.

I was telling the RZ tech about a gut feeling I had that there was a focus issue: I was just getting too many borderline soft shots, and was running through the list of suspects (not least my eyesight), when I mentioned having a Maxwell intenscreen in place of the stock focus screen - and he jumped, and said, that is it grasshopper. ok he didn't do a Pat Morita on me...
but he did say that they stand firm on that diagnosis from experience,
and they would know....btw, what a pleasure to hang with old skool master techie/craftsmen from the pre-digital age...real nice folks too

Wondering if this is:
a. true of others' experiences
b. could it be the Maxwell itself, and would a Beattie intenscreen be different?
thanks all.

While I'm at it, I seem to recall a modification to the Polaroid holder for the RZ that was supposed to allow for single sheets of Type 55 or Readyloads to be fed into it. Granted, it wasn't full frame 4x5, but apparently close?
wondering if this truly exists...

 

[Grayhand]

I had two Mamiya RZ, one Pro ll and One Pro llD and both often gave soft pictures.
One was sent in for adjustment, but the service people claimed that it was in the tolerance span.
But, that tolerance span was for analog film, not for a digital back.

I have tried one of the bright screens but the result was more or less the same.
So I realised that the problem was not the focusing screen it self but the adjustment of the distance of the screen to the mirror.

To adjust the distance properly you have to open parts of the camera up so you can adjust the height of the screws that the screen rest on.
But if you are lucky, then your problem is that the actual focus is between the camera and the object you are focusing on.
That was the case with both my cameras. So I put small pieces of thin tape on top of the screws until the focus was perfect.
I shot my P45+ tethered during this operation so it was quickly done. After this the result was almost perfect focus all the time.

If your camera puts actual focus beyond the object, then you should shim the back.
But then I think it is more easy to open up the camera and lower the height of the four screws.

Ray

 

[ocarlo]

thanks Ray.
How do you make sure your adjustment stays permanently?

 

[Grayhand]

I used a tape that was "hard", not easily deformed.
And it stuck in place when I changed screen, so no problem.
(The glue of the tape was on the screws)

Ray

 

[Udo]

Apply Loctite Threadlock to those screws before the adjustment and give a bit of time to harden. There are different grades of Loctite available. Make sure to use medium strength, which allows to open / tighten the screws later, if necessary.

Udo

 

[Grayhand]

The thing to remember when adjusting the screws is to not get lost regarding how much you adjust each one. If you do the you will introduce a slant of your focusing plane for the screen

Ray

 

[ocarlo]

thanks gents - will have something to say at Nippon clinic then...