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No love for Linhof Techno?

dick

New member
Have alook at this thread over at LuLa where Sean Conboy chips in. He's a long time user of the Techno - has nothing but good things to say about it. One of the other posts mentions that Joe Cornish uses the camera extensively. If you're aware of him, and have seen his work, you'll know there is no higher recommendation for the camera than this. Interestingly, both these photographers were one time large-format users stepping down to MF, rather than 35mm users stepping up.
Sean Conboy did the Hasselblad Arch Location day at Oxford... and I was not impressed. The roof was not level in the bar where he was set up... so I suggested a little rear swing to fix it - not possible on the Techno.

Joe Cornish I met at a show at the NEC, and I am very impressed with his work... I think that (like me) he went from Hasselblad to 5 *4 for movements and not just res... but rear tilt is a magic tool for architecture and landscapes, as you can (with a properly set-up camera) take different versions of a picture with, for landscape exaggerated hills, and for Architecture, correct or "looking right" vertical perspective.
 

Shashin

Well-known member
OK, I understand were you folks are coming from. It is not focal length per se, but rather vignetting/angle of view. Well, that has been a problem for a long time. I always found 55mm/65mm lenses on a 4x5 view camera to be a challenge in the corners. (As for low light, that has always been an issue with a ground glass.) That is why the quality of the ground glass is important as well as the use of a fresnal. (Or buy a rangefinder.)

But all of this is to do with the nature of the beast--you will not get a better ground-glass image on a tech camera anymore than on a Techno. It just comes down to the focusing mechanism--rack and pinion or helicoid. Personally, there are so many variables, I have a hard time favoring one over the other. (At least the Techno give the option of both.) If was going to use tilts and swings often, I might prefer my lenses to be on a lens board than having the extension of a helicoid produces, but I could still work with both setups.

Personally, I would prefer an Arca Swiss technical camera (I like small cameras and the possibility of hand holding them), but I can see folks raised with a flat-bed view/technical camera to like the Techno. A Techno on a Cube would be very sexy.
 

f8orbust

Active member
you should try to focus a 35XL on the techno at 8 meters several times without a lot of light...
Well, if that was something I had to do on a daily basis I'd probably shell out the $400 and stick it in a helical ... but hang on a second, unless your helical on the 35XL has an indication for 8m exactly (or 10.5m or 15.2m or whatever), how do you, er, focus it at 8m exactly (or 10.5m or 15.2m or whatever) ?

Joe Cornish I met at a show at the NEC, and I am very impressed with his work... I think that (like me) he went from Hasselblad to 5 *4 for movements and not just res... but rear tilt is a magic tool for architecture and landscapes, as you can (with a properly set-up camera) take different versions of a picture with, for landscape exaggerated hills, and for Architecture, correct or "looking right" vertical perspective.
Asymmetric rear tilt is the one movement I'd love ... and I'll probably win the lottery before any camera manufacturer comes up with such a solution specifically designed for DB use.

...a Techno on a Cube would be very sexy.
It is...
 
... but hang on a second, unless your helical on the 35XL has an indication for 8m exactly (or 10.5m or 15.2m or whatever), how do you, er, focus it at 8m exactly (or 10.5m or 15.2m or whatever) ?
Easy way is to make up a focusing scale on paper, set the your infinity stops, place the scale and it becomes the same as any other technical camera :D. "Old" film cameras such as a Toyo 45AII which have a dedicated area on the bed for the scale. It's not necessary to have to focus on the GG.

Due to the yaw-free front swing/tilt, surely the techno is better than most field cameras (and the arca and alpa) for people who need front swing/tilt regularly. You can also use any lens, classic or new, with just a linhof board. I think the techno is the most versatile tech cam around.
 
Though I rarely post here, I thought I would add some thoughts to the discussion as I have a Linhof Techno and an IQ180. The combination is new to me (though I have had the Techno for awhile):

First, I was previously shooting the Techno with a P65+ and the Kapture Group sliding back. Focusing on the ground glass, the two widest lenses I was using were the Schneider 47 and the Rodenstock 28. I often employ tilt and, combined with stopping down to around f/11, I was able to consistently and confidently nail focus nearly all the time.

With the IQ180, I decided to ditch the 47 and replace it with a Rodenstock 40mm - which I just received - due to the limited movements and severe color shift associated with using movements on the Schneider.

On the IQ180, I am nearly always using LiveView to focus - particularly for tilt. In fact, I recently purchased (but have yet to receive) a fixed plate back to replace my Kapture Group sliding back. For my purposes, LiveView is such a dramatic improvement that I think I'd prefer to save the size/weight/hassle of the sliding back (shooting almost entirely landscape photography with this setup, so weight matters when hiking).

LiveView on the IQ180 combined with the Techno is excellent. I carry a vari-ND filter for bright light, though I often do not need it. The biggest downside to this setup is that i get a fair amount of noise in the shadows if I am using LiveView for a long period of time and then taking longish exposures (2-15 sec) - apparently the back really needs a little cool-down time. Of course, I am in Arizona where the air doesn't cool down a great deal this time of year.

I previously had a plate camera (Cambo RS). I definitely prefer the Linhof, particularly because of the ability to Tilt built into the camera vs the lens. My biggest complaints about the Linhof are:

1. Gearing - I'd prefer finer gearing. It requires very small movements to nail critical focus.

2. No rear tilt - though you can duplicate rear-tilt results via some tilting, shifting and camera body adjustments (tipping the entire camera back form level).

Overall, I'd highly recommend the combination for slow, methodical capture not dissimilar to 4x5 work. Compared to the RM3Di, I think you are getting something that is ultimately similar, though less expensive (due to the simple lens mounting). The Arca is better on fine focus, the Linhof "feels" much more like a 4x5 camera in action and thus may be preferable to some.

Hope those thoughts help...

Dave
 

tjv

Active member
Wow, great info. Thanks! I love using my Linhof Technika V. I love the process and methodical setup, so guess I'd love using the Techno, or any modern tech camera for that matter. Something about the slow process and setup gets me in synch with what's in front of me. In 4x5" terms, my most used lenses are 90mm, 120mm and 150mm. Doesn't seem like the equivalent combo is too hard a task for the techno. T

Though I rarely post here, I thought I would add some thoughts to the discussion as I have a Linhof Techno and an IQ180. The combination is new to me (though I have had the Techno for awhile):

First, I was previously shooting the Techno with a P65+ and the Kapture Group sliding back. Focusing on the ground glass, the two widest lenses I was using were the Schneider 47 and the Rodenstock 28. I often employ tilt and, combined with stopping down to around f/11, I was able to consistently and confidently nail focus nearly all the time.

With the IQ180, I decided to ditch the 47 and replace it with a Rodenstock 40mm - which I just received - due to the limited movements and severe color shift associated with using movements on the Schneider.

On the IQ180, I am nearly always using LiveView to focus - particularly for tilt. In fact, I recently purchased (but have yet to receive) a fixed plate back to replace my Kapture Group sliding back. For my purposes, LiveView is such a dramatic improvement that I think I'd prefer to save the size/weight/hassle of the sliding back (shooting almost entirely landscape photography with this setup, so weight matters when hiking).

LiveView on the IQ180 combined with the Techno is excellent. I carry a vari-ND filter for bright light, though I often do not need it. The biggest downside to this setup is that i get a fair amount of noise in the shadows if I am using LiveView for a long period of time and then taking longish exposures (2-15 sec) - apparently the back really needs a little cool-down time. Of course, I am in Arizona where the air doesn't cool down a great deal this time of year.

I previously had a plate camera (Cambo RS). I definitely prefer the Linhof, particularly because of the ability to Tilt built into the camera vs the lens. My biggest complaints about the Linhof are:

1. Gearing - I'd prefer finer gearing. It requires very small movements to nail critical focus.

2. No rear tilt - though you can duplicate rear-tilt results via some tilting, shifting and camera body adjustments (tipping the entire camera back form level).

Overall, I'd highly recommend the combination for slow, methodical capture not dissimilar to 4x5 work. Compared to the RM3Di, I think you are getting something that is ultimately similar, though less expensive (due to the simple lens mounting). The Arca is better on fine focus, the Linhof "feels" much more like a 4x5 camera in action and thus may be preferable to some.

Hope those thoughts help...

Dave
 

archivue

Active member
"Due to the yaw-free front swing/tilt, surely the techno is better than most field cameras (and the arca and alpa)."

The Arca M line 2 and his Orbix isn't bad either !
 

Christopher

Active member
It all depends. I still think the TECHNO makes a nice studio or location camera, but far from mobil. Linhof might have changed a few things, or I could be more critical, but my TECHNO as never working great for a long time. After a few months of use I wasn't able to shoot wide open with my lenses because the lens/sensor plane wasn't parallel anymore. Sakes goes for focus, I had my infinity stops, but they moved, just a little bit, but that just slows down work.

It is true that I am a lot more happier with my Arca now. Everything just works and not only for a few months before it h to be recalibrated.

I still would prefer to work with a real bellow camera it currently would be M line 2.
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
LiveView on the IQ180 combined with the Techno is excellent. I carry a vari-ND filter for bright light, though I often do not need it. The biggest downside to this setup is that i get a fair amount of noise in the shadows if I am using LiveView for a long period of time and then taking longish exposures (2-15 sec) - apparently the back really needs a little cool-down time. Of course, I am in Arizona where the air doesn't cool down a great deal this time of year
That's to be expected (especially towards the 15 sec side) and especially if you're not using ISO35. The cool-down time should be pretty darn quick even after extensive use of live-view but it's not instant. It shouldn't impact short exposures with even a few seconds of cool down. And of course the ambient air temperature matters a lot. Using standard rather than zero latency will also help to keep the back cool.

Pretty specific combo of using longish exposures, a lot of view view, and warm ambient temperatures here. Otherwise not a lot of real-world instances of this issue.

Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
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Just for clarification, the conditions in which I am shooting do not seem so extreme to me. Let me clarify:

Live view to focus for a few minutes or so. Not 10+ minutes at a time. Always ISO 35 (which is, in itself, somewhat responsible for the longer exposure times). Exposures of 2-15 seconds, not 15 seconds only. Many in the 5-10 second range. AZ summer but at night - ambient air temps in the 90-100 deg (f) range. Never using zero latency mode. Shooting a series of 2-3 Images once out of live view. Space in time equal to that required to exit live view, carefully close the shutter, set the shutter speed, cock the shutter, press the wake up cable, trip the shutter with the cable release. Done carefully it's probably 10-20 seconds between them.

My guess would be outside of the air temp, many landscape photographers would run into similar situations shooting waterfalls, seascapes, dawn/dusk shots etc. I have also shot indoors and seen the same thing. For what it is worth, I saw very similar results with the P65+ when in zero latency mode at ISO 100.

Have not tried letting the back sit for a few minutes but will.



That's to be expected (especially towards the 15 sec side) and especially if you're not using ISO35. The cool-down time should be pretty darn quick even after extensive use of live-view but it's not instant. It shouldn't impact short exposures with even a few seconds of cool down. And of course the ambient air temperature matters a lot. Using standard rather than zero latency will also help to keep the back cool.

Pretty specific combo of using longish exposures, a lot of view view, and warm ambient temperatures here. Otherwise not a lot of real-world instances of this issue.

Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
__________________

Head of Technical Services, Capture Integration
Phase One Partner of the Year
Leaf, Leica, Cambo, Arca Swiss, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Broncolor, Eizo & More

National: 877.217.9870 *| *Cell: 740.707.2183
Newsletter | RSS Feed
Buy Capture One 6 at 10% off

Masters Series Workshop:
New England Landscape - Fall Color (Oct 5-8)
 

greygrad

Member
Yup. The camera ships with the standard bellows, the WA are an optional extra - but you might be able to sort something out with your dealer. There is a kit discount available, which can save you $$ - not sure if you have to buy the WA bellows to get it, but if so it more than covers the cost of them. It was around $800 towards the beginning of the year, it's less now - around $600 - as a result of the fluctuating exchange rates. By the way, if you're going for the sliding back, the new one should be here by the end of September.
 

Christopher

Active member
Really it will be? Magnificent! just took them over two years. Or three?

In regards to the bellow, I preferred the normal one from 90 on. However, greygard is correct.
 

f8orbust

Active member
Yes, none of these companies exactly rush to get their products to market - which, in the fast-paced world we live in today, is actually quite a nice thing.
 

Udo

Member
I love my Techno ! :)

I love its versatility, craftsmanship and precision.

And I have to thank Paula @ LinhofStudio (UK) for her great support and knowledge. :thumbs:

Regards from the Red Sea,
Udo
 

tjv

Active member
What kind of setup are you using with regard to lenses, back etc? I'd appreciate more feedback on how you find focusing and precision of parts.
Thanks,
T

I love my Techno ! :)

I love its versatility, craftsmanship and precision.

And I have to thank Paula @ LinhofStudio (UK) for her great support and knowledge. :thumbs:

Regards from the Red Sea,
Udo
 

dick

New member
how do you, er, focus it at 8m exactly (or 10.5m or 15.2m or whatever) ?
If you use a camera with a lens board, or something to measure to, you use the lens formula and a digital Micrometer ( I bought one the other day).
Asymmetric rear tilt is the one movement I'd love
It is nice to know that there is someone else here who would appreciate a professional camera.
 
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