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Technical Camera Images

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
Steven,

You could build, or rather modify, one of your in-camera profiles using C1's advanced Color Editor, then save that as an ICC in C1. Once saved, you could apply directly or via a style on import. It would take some time initially to build and tweak, but save you a boatload of time in the future.
 

kuau

Workshop Member
jack,
I think that's the direction I'm going to go.
can C1 show values in LAB, this would be very helpful.
I know you shoot phase, but do you find yourself spending a lot of time in C1 just getting the color right?
steven
 
Steve, I found the HS profiles too garish and mostly used LF2 Product 5 and LF2 Portrait Even 5. I would then fine tune exposure for highlights, correct shadows using levels (left upper slider if shadows were too deep - I find this better than the HDR shadow slider), then finally use the lower centre slider to set the global contrast for the image. That seemed to always get me in the ballpark. Worth a try as it's pretty straightforward.

Paul
 

kuau

Workshop Member
This is where I am at,
I went outside, setup my ColorChecker Passport target,
took a picture of it, processed the profile in LR3, restarted LR3,
imported in some .mos files which I have never done in LR3 because I assumed C1 was the way to go, So right off the bat, the few .mos files I imported into LR3 the color looked much better as soon as I apply the DNG profile I made from Passport, go figure I now have blue skies..
I found a dos based utility that converts dng profiles to icc, may try that and bring it into C1.

Off topic of course because I know everyone in this MF group uses C1, yet I was wondering what is the downside of using LR3? none of my lenses have have pre made profiles to start off with so I was just wondering.

Not wanting to start a which is better LR3 or C1, but was just curious.

I tried all the different combinations recommended to me above in C1 and not one of them got the color right as opposed to LR3 with my custom DNG profile.
Don't get me wrong, they are not bad, but as I mentioned in the beginning getting good color for me out of C1 takes a lot more time and adjusting.

Steven
 

kuau

Workshop Member
Worked on another one after it snowed before the aspens died off.
Sinar arTec, 135mm F11

Steven

 

Shreyas

Member
Sahyadri mountain range near Mumbai India.
My first post and first week with tech camera and MF.
Horseman SWD Pro with 35mm Rodenstock APO Sironar Digital and Leaf Aptus II 5. 3 Image stitch.
 

etrump

Well-known member
Steven,

Not everyone in this MFD group uses C1. A few of us are using LR3 and loving it. I still haven't immersed myself in C1, and find LR3 to be more intuitive and easier to get results I'm pleased with. The objective in all this is to get images that you're pleased with. LR3 does that for me. Maybe one of these days I'll confront the error of my ways, but for now LR3 just works.

Joe
With wide technical glass you almost have to use C1 for the LCC processing. Especially with the P65 and IQ180. Impossible for mere mortals to do in PS after LR.
 

kuau

Workshop Member
I guess I have been lucky with my aptus II 7 afi and my Sinar arTec.
I have not needed to do LCC, my widest lens is a 35mm and I have done a few images with it using 10mm rise and I don't notice any color cast.
 

Thierry

New member
Shreyas,

Welcome for this first post.

Is this the mountain range the one on the road to Pune?
I have passed there some years ago.

All the best with your camera
Thierry

Sahyadri mountain range near Mumbai India.
My first post and first week with tech camera and MF.
Horseman SWD Pro with 35mm Rodenstock APO Sironar Digital and Leaf Aptus II 5. 3 Image stitch.
 

2jbourret

New member
With wide technical glass you almost have to use C1 for the LCC processing. Especially with the P65 and IQ180. Impossible for mere mortals to do in PS after LR.
And I would add that using C1 for raw conversion prior to working in LR (especially w/ a Phase One back) preserves the dynamic range coming out of the back to the greatest degree possible, and that the C1 recovery, sharpening and noise reduction tools at the raw conversion stage are cleaner than the using only the tools available in LR.
 

kuau

Workshop Member
Jamie,
I agree with everything you say except, well at least with the leaf back, for landscape work, all the canned profiles to me are not very good.

Steven
 

2jbourret

New member
Steve,
I'd say the same is true for the Phase backs, but making a few presets in C1 that suit your style is very quick, and then they can be applied to any image as you move thru the steps prior to raw conversion. I've made a few basic ones that suit my landscape work, which include white balance (I like 5800k), presharpening, saturation, clarity, NR, etc. A few clicks to one image, then lift and stamp to apply to the others in the set, and I can then move on to adjustments, LCC's, and settings that are specific to each image. I then process to LR, where I make more detailed local adjustments and tweaks for printing. Works well and is quick, unless I get into very detailed local adjustments in LR or PS, when the process slows down.
All I can suggest is that if you get to know your way around C1, you will probably like it and the results surpass what you can get out of LR or PS alone.
 

kuau

Workshop Member
Thanks for the info Paul,
Yep I got all the Gretag Charts, original, DC, SG and I also have Color PassPort.
I think I just need to spend the time in C1 and create my own custom Profile.
Though I have just previewed all the "canned" profiles in C1 that pertain to the Aptus II back and I seem to like Leaf-LF2 Portrait Warm 4.
At least my skies are a nice blue again. Though I will take a look at the advanced color editor as Jack mentioned and see if I can tweak it some.
Steven
 

kuau

Workshop Member
This is from C1 using Leaf-LF2 Portrait Warm 4 profile and some clarity.
Unfortunately I think I had a little lens flare or something going on in the upper left hand corner. Oh well. I still like the image.
Sinar arTec 135mm lens F11

Steven

 

etrump

Well-known member
Some great colorado color Steven. I like the splash of red in the brush line through the middle. Reminds me of east dallas creek road.
 

Wayne Fox

Workshop Member
Two image nodal stitch with the SK 120 N • 1/4 • f11 • iso 100 • no shift



Now, that will be my last posting for around 3 weeks. I am off to Spain tomorrow and cannot do any PP down there. However, I will have internet so I will checkout new images being posted....Cheers, for a while :)
I really love the mood in this image ...
 
Though I will take a look at the advanced color editor as Jack mentioned and see if I can tweak it some.
Sorry, yes must be the colour editor tool (not the colour balance tool as I wrote! Doh). Hopefully that article by the late Bruce Fraser can be adapted to C1
 
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