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About to jump to MF!! Hassy V system OMG!!!

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alexisgc33

Guest
Hello everyone!! This is my 1st post here! I was really excited to find this forum!! I shoot 35mm but have always loved the larger formats. I've been wanting to upgrade to MF for the longest time. And it looks like I may be buying a 503cw hassy w/ a few lenses for a great deal w/ also a 500 c/m (included). I've shot 35mm and large format 4x5 before. I absolutely loved the large format but only shot it in college.

Anyhow, I've been doing some research about MF and digital options w/ the Hassy V system. Luckily, it looks like I can rent the CFV 39 back locally at a pretty good rate! So that's what I plan on using for my portrait work. My only and main concern is the limited availability of ultra wide angle lenses in MF. I've looked at the hassy stuff, and the widest angle lens they have for the V series is about 30mm equivalent to 35mm full frame. I'd love to use this camera w/ a digital back for my group shots, but I usually shoot those at 16mm on a full frame 35mm camera. Also, seems like the widest angle lens PERIOD in MF is equivalent to only about 24mm in 35mm Full Frame which is in the H series that has a 28mm which is the widest in MF. Well, at least according to their site the "28mm is the widest lens available in MF".

I'm not sure if my conversion are 100% right, but the widest angle lens on the V system (that's not fish eye) is the 40mm. and with the digital back it has a 1.1 crop. So would that make it equal to about 30mm in a 35mm full frame camera?

Here are some samples of my work. Some of my group shots are done at 16mm on a full frame 35mm camera:







In some cases I have to use 16mm b/c of the space, but in others I can try to make longer focal length work. I'm not worried about the other portrait stuff. It's just my group shots that have me concerned.

All my stuff is usually shot on a tripod, w/ strobes pushing F16 at ISO 100. I'd love to us ISO 50 which is a nice plus w/ that back.

I'm really picky w/ the quality of my work/prints and I only hear great things about this camera system & back. Which has me really excited. I'm not too thrilled about the quality in my 35mm 5d Classic. The 5d mk2 is not that great either. They both seem to have noise at ISO 100 as well as the Nikon D3s which seem to worse!!

any tips, suggests, comments are welcome and appreciated.

thank you so much,
-Alexis
 

David Schneider

New member
I don't know what the equivalent is for CFV backs, but 35 equivalent of HCD 28 is:
H4D60 = 18mm
H4D50 = 20mm
H4D 40/31 =22

And you can always stich. It's gotten a lot easier.
 
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alexisgc33

Guest
what are my options for widest angle w/ the V-system? is 40mm the widest?

Graham, when you said "There are also 23mm and 24mm view camera lenses, which can give superb results." Can those be used w/ a 503cw?? Sorry if I'm asking such ignorant questions. I'm fairly new to MF/V-system.

If possible I'd prefer not to stitch as I'm photographing people.
 

archivue

Active member
30 is the widest, but it's a fish eye !
The only good wide angle in today standards for a MFDB if the last version of the 40
called : Distagon f/4 40 mm CFE (IF FLE)... IF is important !
This lens exibit a lot of distortion that Phocus get rid of, but it is much sharper than the other models !
http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HW/HWLenses.aspx
Using an adapter, you can also mount V lenses on a mamiya DF.

But to be honest, considering your type of work, i would go for a Mamiya DF P30+ kit with a 28 or 35 AF... or maybe a pentax 645.
If ultra wide angle is your goal, Hassy V is not the way to go !
 

Graham Mitchell

New member
Sorry, none of the lenses I mentioned work on the 503CW. I wouldn't recommend that platform if you are starting out in medium format digital.
 

yaya

Active member
I'd look at something like an ALPA 12TC with either a Schneider Digitar 24mm or a Rodenstock HR 23mm and a Leaf Aptus-II 7

The back can be used on your V series for the jobs that don't require extremely wide angles
 

johnnygoesdigital

New member
Why even bother with expense of an Alpa and lenses, unless you plan on printing really big. The Hasselblad CFV-16/39/50, has on on board battery and no microlenses, it can be used with technical cameras with the proper adaptors, so you have an option to use both cameras - if you go that route. Keep your 35mm and use the CFV for portraits, utilizing the crop factor to your advantage. Also, the Leica M9 can be used with many amazing wide lenses from both Leica and Zeiss. It really comes down to end use and print size. Sony has the 16-35mm for the A900, (an amazing 25MP camera). Lastly, you might consider the rumored, new offerings from Nikon (36MP) and Sony's new camera...the NEX-7. Although, some loathe Ken Rockwell, he does have some good reading on his website and lots of info on most gear.
 
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Shelby Lewis

Guest
I'm going to go against the grain here... and I shoot MF full-time now.

If the shots above are representative of most of your work, then lens choice isn't going to be the killer for you... DoF and set-up time/per shot is. I made my living shooting portraits (mostly seniors) for several years, and MF works fine for the normal shallow DoF headshots and "lifestyle" one-on-one work. But for heavily lit, deep-DoF group work you'll need some serious W/S to get enough DoF if you're going to print big (with the accompanying generators/battery pacs, etc...). You could potentially shoot a tech cam and use tilt to gain an advantage there. But that's another world completely from hassy 503 (money wise and use-wise) $$$$$$$

Even at f11, DoF can be narrower than expected if you aren't near infinity... so those tight and wide shots in the tunnel would take some finesse.

I totally think you could pull it off... but it'll take more time, more light, and more money. With team group photos... the "more time" part could be the most problematic. As it stands, the 5D Mark II with a stable of speedlights and FlexTT5's is still the perfect set-up for this kind of work, IMO... but it sure isn't a very fulfilling setup to hold in the hand. I understand that. ;)

Good luck!
 

Stuart Richardson

Active member
Honestly, based on the work you are doing, I would say stick with 35mm digital. The amount of manipulation you are doing to the files is going to eliminate any of the more subtle tonality and bit depth advantages (though you may have more manipulation headroom in your files), you are going to give up the very wide angles and zooms that you probably find quite useful. As Shelby mentioned, DOF and lighting is going to be a real issue. And what is the main final product you are delivering? I would assume it is more for print or web, rather than large fine art prints (bigger than 20x24 inches). It also means learning new RAW conversion programs, dealing with larger file sizes and storage issues etc etc. By all means, rent it and give it a try, but I would not suggest buying anything for the system until you have lived with it for awhile. My guess is that you might find that it is not worth the effort, especially compared to the highest end 35mm digital. The newly announced 1D-x or a D3x sound much more up your alley...
 

Geoff

Well-known member
Shelby makes some good points. There is a conflict (at the moment) between your shooting style (from your shots above) and MFDB gear. The strengths of each are not the same.

People change, however, and sometimes adjust to the gear. And that's fine - but if you want MFDB gear to give you the same shots as you have, just better, I'd recommend you test very carefully at what you are putting together and see if it works for you. The V series and backs can be a lot of fun and take great shots - just not those kind of shots with massive DOF and wide angle.
 

Stuart Richardson

Active member
P.S. If you think the D3S and 5DMk II have a lot of noise, don't try shooting at anything other than base ISO with a medium format digital back!!!
 
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Shelby Lewis

Guest
P.S. If you think the D3S and 5DMk II have a lot of noise, don't try shooting at anything other than base ISO with a medium format digital back!!!
Tell me about it... in dark scenes, my aptus II is strictly an ISO 50 back (maybe 100). In fat, bright natural light, not so critical.
 
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alexisgc33

Guest
First off, I would just like to sincerely THANK everyone for their advice/input. I really appreciate it!!! You guys are awesome!!! =)

I just wanted to reply to some of the responses/feedback.

Graham - what camera system would you recommend as a first Digital MF and is there a reason why you don't recommend the Hassy 503cw as a 1st system?

Before making & reading this thread. I had NEVER heard or seen about the ALPA 12TC with either a Schneider Digitar 24mm or a Rodenstock HR 23mm lens!!! I looked them up and they seem amazing & now I want one!!! This looks like the perfect setup for my wide angle needs. However, I don't nearly do enough big jobs to justify the expense in investing in one at the current time. If I didn't have to worry about money, I'd invest into that system ASAP specifically for my group shots. Thank you Yair & Thierry for the suggestion!

Shelby, setup time, light power is not a problem at all. For ALL these shots I arrive at least an hr before hand to setup. And even before I do scouting trips to pick the best location. The power is no issue. I'm currently pushing F16 at ISO 100 and have room for more. btw, I've used Hyper Sync & that HSS w/ Pocket Wizards and speedlites before and I don't like it all. I use studio strobes on-location for my work and rarely use speedlites. I don't do these as regular team photos nor at that high-volume.

Stuart - Final size is about 2ft by 3ft prints. I don't mind at all learning a new RAW system. I've actually done post-processing for another photographer who shoots MF before so I'm somewhat familiar w/ the files. I also didn't say I was buying a CFV back, I would be renting it to try out. I'm going to by the hassy gear b/c I'm getting an amazing deal I cannot pass on plus I'm going to be able to rent the back at a great rate locally to try out. I've shot w/ Nikon before and I'm not a fan of the image quality. I like shooting at ISO 100 or 50 to overpower the sun the Nikon at ISO 50 looks muddy/washed out in the darks even in their latest cameras. The D3S & the 5Dmk II are not too smooth/crisp at ISO 100/50. It's not really noise and kind of hard to explain. But the images don't look as best as they could IMO. And this is not only w/ my images, but I've done PP work for another commercial photographer and seeing the images from the Canon 1Ds mark II & 1Ds Mark III are in the same boat.

Thank you again everyone. I wish I could try out ALL the MF systems suggested!!!
 

yaya

Active member
If you buy the 503 and are going to rent a back to try then perhaps have a look at the Aptus-II 10 R; The wide sensor I think will fit your style and will make the most out of your lenses for the group shots

Have a look at Bernhard Spöttel's work. Quite a bit of the wide angle stuff was done with an AFi-II 10 (similar sensor to the 10R) on an ALPA TC & MAX
 
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