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Are two vertical shots enough for stitching ?

Ztacir

Member
I am shooting with Cambo WRS with IQ180 back and Rodenstock 40mm.
I am trying to stitch two vertical images to make a panaroma.
However,I can not stitch the images because the overlap between them is so narrow.I am using Photoshop or panaroma maker pro with no success.
When I use two horizantal images, there is no problem at all.
Do you suggest to take three vertical shots or use of another program?
Also should I do the adjustments including LCC and exposure corrections individually for each shot before stitching?
Thank you for your answers.
Ziya Tacir
 

Shashin

Well-known member
Rotate the image 90 degrees and try to stitch them as a horizontal. After stitching, rotate it to vertical.

Process them be fore stitching.
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Ziya you should not go past the 15mm movement on the fall on the Cambo

Try this keep back horizontal go 15mm on the fall shoot than go up to 15mm on the rise. Your going down to 20mm or more and it won't shift that much with the 40mm Rodie or better said it will but might be mush with that much shift. Safely 15mm should get two images.

Also correct take the LCC of each apply the corrections before sending it too stitching.
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Yea have a feeling your dropping it way down to the 25mm mark which will work with lenses over 40mm like the 60mm XL and longer glass. The 40mm is a awesome lens but your just running out of image circle at 25mm. You can try 20mm and see if it holds up as i have not tested the 40mm on movements here and you maybe okay but worth a test for sure. I can pretty much guarantee 15mm is perfect though or very close to it.

I just got my Cambo AE version today which did not take long at all less than 2 weeks I think . Need to get out and play a little myself.
 

Ztacir

Member
Congratulations Guy,lovely camera.I love my AE.
I will run some tests with the 40 and post the results.
 

dick

New member
Three vertical shots stitched with plenty of overlap makes it easier for the software... but, like they say, you need image circle... but I have the Schneider Apo-Digitar 47XL, which is a 100 degree lens with an image circle of 113mm. I have not got it mounted yet, but I have a 12.mm sunken lens board I intend to convert to 35mm sunken, which. with the special Sinar sliding back frame and wide-angle bellows and an eShutter should let me use it on my P3. This avoids the hassle of having to buy a pancake camera for wide angle ¿but would not be any cheaper?

I think I might get a 60XL too.

Yea have a feeling your dropping it way down to the 25mm mark which will work with lenses over 40mm like the 60mm XL and longer glass. The 40mm is a awesome lens but your just running out of image circle at 25mm. You can try 20mm and see if it holds up as i have not tested the 40mm on movements here and you maybe okay but worth a test for sure. I can pretty much guarantee 15mm is perfect though or very close to it.

I just got my Cambo AE version today which did not take long at all less than 2 weeks I think . Need to get out and play a little myself.
 

coulombic

New member
For free image composite-creation software, it's really hard to beat Microsoft ICE. Otherwise, Photoshop generally delivers the best overall image quality/blending.

My guess is that you shifted from extremes, and there's simply no overlap. How these programs work is detecting features in the overlapping areas. No overlap = no shared features. It has nothing to do with how many images were actually taken; only that they were taken with an adequate amount of overlap.
 

Ztacir

Member
Two shots with 15 mm worked perfectly.
If I wanted to go with 20mm,then I was able to do it with 3 shots using either Arcsoft's Panaroma Maker or PS.
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Yea my concern was 20mm does the image circle hold up but yes you would need to do 3 shots to give yourself enough overlap to stitch. 15mm than 2 will work.
 

yaya

Active member
Worth noting that the overlapping area needs to have some detail in it; texture, structures etc. so that the software will have something to work with.

If the subject is feature-rich and if the resolution+sharpness are high enough you can use a fairly small overlap, at least in PS's Photomerge

Yair
 

yaya

Active member
For flat copywork of e.g. paintings you can get away with almost no overlap. This is really helpful if you're working into a standard output size (A4, A3, A2 etc.)
 
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