carl-b
New member
There are 2 on ebay at the moment, one via a camera shop and one from a private seller in London
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Fixing front focusing issues with a leaf back (AFDIII)
- Thread starter Chris Giles
- Start date
Chris, I don't think the LS 110mm works other than wide open and focal shutter only on the AFDIII.Thanks, I took delivery of a 1.9 80mm of which I really like and have a 110mm 2.8 incoming.
Tripod shooting looks the way to go so at least I'll have my hands free for manual focus
I use 55mm MF LS on AFD bodies. All it takes to make them work is like 5 seconds and screwdriver. Of course you will need trigger it with cable, but hey..
(i do start to come up like some sort of mad diy lately on this forum somehow...
)But if we talking about new LS D version then yeah, no mechanical cock-up mechanism.. So AFD users screwed
Chris Giles
New member
It's the manual focus one. I want to see how I get on with the focal length.
Out of interest, has anyone noticed differences in metering when using a light meter? I just finished a session where the light meter was giving me a reading which was 1.5 stops under what the camera wanted it to be, and in lightroom correcting it by this amount made a better exposure. (i.e. the camera was correct, not the meter).
Chris Giles
New member
I think I can put up with the cameras shortcomings....
ISO25:
ISO25:
When focusing as close as you are you need to compensate for light loss as you extend the lens away from the camera. At the distance you are shooting at I would say that 1 stop is about correct. The rest of the error could be a badly calibrated light meter.
When shooting with the aptus look at the histogram and make sure it is nicely spead out to match the subject you are shooting. You can go higher in the historam than you can safely get away with with 35mm DSLR sensors. While adjusting exposure in post looks remarkably good with MF backs you will get better results shooting a bit hotter and adjusting a bit in post maybe darkening a little.
Chris Giles
New member
Hmmm, ok, will give it a try. When you say extend the lens away from the camera, can you clarify this for me? As I'm reading it as being too close to the subject and taking the light away from them. But I'm almost 2 metres away and sitting down.
Had AFDIII myself before, and focus issues. How do you know it is not an issue of where you point the focus, or misalignment (within Mamiya tolerance) or similar of focus sensor in camera??
There is one RELIABLE and NO NEED FOR DISPUTE means to test for focus accuracy: LENS ALIGN :thumbs:
Here: LensAlign - WhiBal (I used the smaller one, works great!)
With it you get a reputable method for testing rather than a dog, thus no method of testing to dispute or doubt.
Attached is from Phase One of focus check procedure, that tells you the acceptable tolerance. Also of course that it varies depending on what focal lens you use... Sure, you can try only the method by Phase One, but Lens Align allows you to focus accurate on a single plane. Thus Lens Align is better, well worth the $$. :thumbs::thumbs:
After above you can resolve quietly with Mamiya or Leaf as required.
I hope helps!
Best regards,
Anders
Found mine on ebay.... it's a gem and got it for $ 800, but with a stuck iris.
Hasselblad can repair it for $ 200 including cleaning internal lens surfaces.
Another lens to consider is the Pentacon mount Carl Zeiss Jena 180mm 2.8.
Nice and softer Boken than even the Mamiya 200 2.8 APO that I also have.
Chris Giles
New member
Wow, Bargain. I'm also impressed with the 110mm 2.8 (arrived yesterday), doesn't like bright sunlight though (low contrast - can you get hoods for the old Sekor lenses)?
carl-b
New member
They use folding rubber hoods chris, there are a few on ebay at the moment. But mainly for the W/A lenses. However as they use the filter mount, you could just get an after market rubber hood in 58mm? to use with the lens.
any screw-in hood will do. There are rubber ones, there are metal ones, even plastic ones. I have rubber one that comes with 180/4.5 boxed set.. Rubber ones you can find around pretty cheap if not hunting for brand (afaik i paid 10-20$ a piece back in 2006 when i got set for Nikon back then).
Many older 645 lenses have some mild haze to them. This lowers the contrast.
To see how the haze situation is when buying used lenses put a light bulb up
over a dark background. With the lens off the camera point it at the light and see how dark the area surrounding the light bulb is.
Unfortunatly haze can be hard to deal with. The main problem is breakdown of the bonding material in lenses that have two elements bonded together. This bonding degrades over time.