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Questions about First Foray into Medium Format

Transposure

New member
Hello All,
I have been lurking on GetDPI for a few months now. I decided to register today to become part of the community and ask a few questions relating to my first foray into medium format digital capture.

A little background....
I have been shooting for decades, first 35mm film and 35mm digital since 1999. I am a Canon user, historically shooting with each generation of the 1Ds camera. I currently shoot with a 1Ds Mark III and plan to acquire the 1Dx when it becomes available. I shoot commercial, editorial and weddings. My website is TRANSPOSURE

I recently had the opportunity to use a current Mamiya 645DF + DM33 back + 110mm LS lens. I used the opportunity to do several very comprehensive comparisons with my current 1Ds Mark III kit. I devised tests for dynamic range, tonal quality (gradation) across surfaces that went from brightly lit to dark shadows, equalized resolution (dropping the same number of pixels/photosites on a subject) to test actual pixel quality. What I found was very interesting. The MF files had more dynamic ranges, as expected. But more interestingly, the MF files had a better tonal gradation from light to dark. Where the Canon would have more abrupt gradation, the MF had a much more pleasant gradation. That was the defining characteristic of the MF capture that stuck in my mind.

As much as I would love to jump into a 645DF (Phase or Mamiya) and an IQ back, I want to start small and get my feet wet. I want to have a limited expenditure and really see if this is a proper path forward for my work.

So, time for the questions.....
1. I have an opportunity to buy a Mamiya AFDII and Leaf Aptus 75 (33MP) for a very good price through a friend of mine. I realize both pieces are 1+ generations old, however, in order to get my feet wet, will this system work well with the latest version of Capture One (purchased pro version recently)?
2. Can the Leaf Aptus 75 be tethered to Capture One?
3. Will I be missing any functionality when tethered to C1 as compared to the DM33 kit?
4. What are the functional differences between the Mamiya AFDII and the Mamiya AFDIII and Mamiya DF?
5. I realize I will not be able to use leaf shutter lenses, so is my only hit regarding this limitation the 1/250 shutter speed, in lieu of the 1/1600 speed?
6. My intent is to use this with one or two lenses for products and headshots initially, to develop a solid workflow and then, if everything works well, potentially use it for fashion and commercial people photography. Do you see any limitations?
7. My biggest gripe with the 645DF was the (pardon the frankness) horribly limited autofocus system. I realize the DF AF was improved over the AFDIII and AFDII, but is the AFDII AF really bad?
8. I read somewhere there is a dongle required to use the A75 live view with C1. Is this true? If so, what is it and where do I get it?
9. Any other thoughts, comments, advice on this matter would be GREATLY appreciated!!
10. Are there any highly recommended f/2.8 lenses in the 110-160mm range that are recommended for this setup?

I apologize for the lengthy nature of my first post, but I figured this seems to be a popular and informative forum for MFD. Since this foray represents only the tip of a very large and costly ongoing iceberg, I certainly don't want to be the Titanic! LOL

In all seriousness, I just want to get some answers from current MFD users so that I can make an informed decision.

Thank you in advance to all those that choose to reply!
Regards,
Ken
:)
 
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DeckardTrinity

New member
I can't comment on the Mamiya camera gear questions, but your observation about the better tonal gradations on the MF files vs Canon files is a good one. This is due to the 16-bit per color (RGB) channel of the DM33 back vs the 14-bit A/D converter on the 1Ds Mk III. I've noticed the same behavior on my Leaf Afi-7 (also 33 megapixel) vs the Canon 5D Mk II. The Leaf raw files have much better tonal gradations than the 5D raw images, and that really impresses me considering how good the 5D images are to begin with.
 

MaxKißler

New member
I recommend you try your friends gear before making a decision. I say so because the AF difference between the AFD II and the DF is extreme. If you think the AF on the DF is slow you will probably be quite disappointed in the AFD II.

The flash sync speed with the focal plane shutter is only 1/125 and not 1/250. If you plan to use the camera on location, it can be quite limiting...

Check if it's the Leaf Aptus 75 or Leaf Aptus 75S. This is important as you can only shoot bursts of 4 frames with the 75 non S and capture speed itself is slower.
 

Transposure

New member
Hi Max,
Thanks for responding.
Regarding the AFDII vs. DF, I am aware the AF is slower and I have resolved myself to that given my shooting circumstances and the first foray into MF to get my feet wet. It is a compromise that I am willing to swallow given the low cost of entry. I realize I will likely be disappointed with its speed, but then again, I am already disappointed in comparison to the immediacy of the Canon system with various L-Glass options.

Thanks for the clarification on the sync speed. Check. :)

The back to which I am referring is the Aptus 75 (non S).
I reviewed the specs for the Aptus 75 vs. 75S. Here they are:

Aptus 75:
http://www.peartreerental.com/downloads/Leaf Aptus 75 Brochure.pdf
1.85 seconds per frame

Aptus 75S:
http://www.peartreerental.com/downloads/Aptus 75S data sheet.pdf
1.1 seconds/frame, unlimited burst

I can live with the 1.85s.

Considering the exact same Dalsa sensor is used in each, are there marked differences between the FILES of the 75, 75S, and Aptus II 7/DM33?

Any chance of more answers to the aforementioned Q's? :)

Thanks!
Ken
 

malmac

Member
Ken

About a year ago I finally took the leap and bought a MFD system -
I took a different line to you even though my starting point was similar at least in term of gear.

My wife and I shoot Canon with 1D Mk 4's and 5DMk2 - weddings, portraits and for me landscape and my wife macro.

We bought a 645DF with a P65+ back with an upgrade to an IQ180 - which of course arrived a bit later on.

What have I found?

I find the auto focus on the 645DF factors in too wider area of the scene - and seems to consider higher contrast elements which are outside the centre focus in the view finder. So now I mostly shoot manual focus which means less disappointment caused by poor focus.

There is lots of information on this excellent forum about MFD - however like much in life it is hard to soak it all up in theoretical terms - so you get your feet wet, to use your analagy - and then I found I had not asked the all the right questions, had made lots of assumptions which have proved ill founded and learned lots of stuff I never knew I didn't know.

The journey goes on.

All the best with your journey.


mal
 

MaxKißler

New member
Well, I'm not an expert and maybe you should directly ask someone at Leaf. But I guess there is no or at least not a huge difference between the files of the 75 and 75S. The Aptus II 7 / DM33 might produce cleaner files at longer exposures (up to 32s) and noise performance could be a tad better (half a stop?), but as said, that is just guessing.

If you wanted to occasionally shoot film, this is possible with the AFD II as well with the AFD III but not with the DF.

I once had the chance to test the Mamiya/P1 150mm f/2,8 D which is really an incredible lens. If you don't need the leaf shutter, this is the lens to go.

That's about all I can say in order to answer your questions. Hope this helps a bit. Have fun with your Aptus 75, you're going to love it I'm sure.. ;)
 

Transposure

New member
Mal,
Thanks for your reply!
I understand the focus thing. It was extremely frustrating. During experimentation with a live model, at f/2.8 (purposely chosen to highlight the AF system flaws) and minimum focal distance, the AF would randomly choose eyeball, eyelashes, cheek, bridge of nose. With the Canon, selecting a focus point is easy and then back button focus lock, shoot, dead on, every time. So, I have resolved myself to shoot portraits via MF if necessary, especially since the AFDII is worse than the DF in its focusing ability.
Can you share some of what you have learned regarding your assumptions and asking the right questions? Please share the highlights.
My goal, just to reiterate, is to ultimately have a better file. Period.

Max,
Thanks again. I wouldn't use the camera for long exposures. I also will not shoot film, ever. I have read good things about the 150mm f/2.8 D lens. I am used to paying the big $$ prices for the Canon L glass, but I thought the Mamiya glass was cheaper? Hmmm. The 150mm f/2.8 D is over $3K. Any other recs?
 

kdphotography

Well-known member
Ken,

If you're located somewhat close to a MFDB dealer, I would make it a point to stop in and visit, try different systems and get introduced to the post-processing workflow. Or give a call to Capture Integration or rent a system.

I would seriously reconsider getting the DF body over earlier generation bodies (and especially since you won't be shooting film)---not just for the faster AF. There are other features available that I wouldn't want to be locked out from using. The big one here are available lenses. Even if not taking full advantage of faster flash sync capabilities, the lens offerings from Schneider for the DF only isn't something to take lightly. There is also the V-grip (eh, but does have built-in profoto air) and the new Li-ion battery insert :thumbup:.

Lenses I consider at the top tier: 55LS, 110LS, 120mm macro, 150D---and probably the 150LS too but I've sworn myself away from that lens less Stephen Gilbert never lets me live that one down... 80D/LS is also quite good. I consider the remaining lenses good to quite good, with the achilles heel for the Phase/Mamiya DF being at the wide end.

In short, I think by opting for an older body, you are in effect tying your hands early on....

ken
 

Transposure

New member
Ken,
Thanks for your reply!
I have tried the M645DF with the 80mm f2.8 LS and the 110mm f/2.8 LS lenses. I have also tried the VGrip. I am a Profoto user and have integrated Air into my studio, so I am aware of the benefits of the Vgrip. The DF body, or by then, the DFII, could be an upgrade for me.

Here is a link to a FTP download site that has DM33 to DS3 comparison files from my latest series of tests....
Index of /DM33_vs_DS3

Right now, I am interested in obtaining the the file from the MF system at this low cost of entry. If it shows its worth, I can update the body and lenses over time.
 

Transposure

New member
To All,
I would still like to have specific answers to the questions I listed in my original post. If anyone can address those in detail, I would be very appreciative. :)
Ken
 

Chris Giles

New member
I used the AFDIII and DF, with autofocus the only noticeable difference between the two is the autofocus on the AFDIII hunted more. Accuracy was the same however I gave up on them for the Hasselblad H1 which is fast and nails focus every time.

I think the DF body's AF centre point is too big. With the hassy it's almost as if it's focal point has a centre weighted point.

The DF will suit you for most things but small frustrations now become big issues later.

1. I have an opportunity to buy a Mamiya AFDII and Leaf Aptus 75 (33MP) for a very good price through a friend of mine. I realize both pieces are 1+ generations old, however, in order to get my feet wet, will this system work well with the latest version of Capture One (purchased pro version recently)?
Yes

2. Can the Leaf Aptus 75 be tethered to Capture One?
Yes

3. Will I be missing any functionality when tethered to C1 as compared to the DM33 kit?
Not that I'm aware of.

4. What are the functional differences between the Mamiya AFDII and the Mamiya AFDIII and Mamiya DF?
AFDIII and DF there isn't much difference apart from the use of leaf lenses, V grip, reduced shutter lag and autofocus being the main things.

5. I realize I will not be able to use leaf shutter lenses, so is my only hit regarding this limitation the 1/250 shutter speed, in lieu of the 1/1600 speed?
Shutter speed on non leaf lens goes up to 1/4000 but flash synch is 1/125

6. My intent is to use this with one or two lenses for products and headshots initially, to develop a solid workflow and then, if everything works well, potentially use it for fashion and commercial people photography. Do you see any limitations?
No

7. My biggest gripe with the 645DF was the (pardon the frankness) horribly limited autofocus system. I realize the DF AF was improved over the AFDIII and AFDII, but is the AFDII AF really bad?
Not really, just hunts for focus, which can be embarrassing and leads to missed moments.

8. I read somewhere there is a dongle required to use the A75 live view with C1. Is this true? If so, what is it and where do I get it?
No idea about that.

9. Any other thoughts, comments, advice on this matter would be GREATLY appreciated!!
Get a Hasselblad.

10. Are there any highly recommended f/2.8 lenses in the 110-160mm range that are recommended for this setup?
The 150mm 2.8 is awesome.
 

dick

New member
Hello All,
The MF files had more dynamic ranges, as expected. But more interestingly, the MF files had a better tonal gradation from light to dark. Where the Canon would have more abrupt gradation, the MF had a much more pleasant gradation. That was the defining characteristic of the MF capture that stuck in my mind.

As much as I would love to jump into a 645DF (Phase or Mamiya) and an IQ back,
:)
I wonder what your tests would have shown up if you had compared an H4D-60?

We would be interested to hear details of your evaluation tests.

¿Where are you?

I have an H4D-60, and my heart problem prevents me using it much, and my insurance allows me to hire it, so I am interesting in finding fellow members who would like to get to use my kit.
 

malmac

Member
Ken

One of the assumptions I made when buying Phase One was that I would be able to keep the digital back and trade up to a new Phase One camera when one was released.
Where as if we had bought a Hasselblad - to upgrade I would have to sell the camera and back - which I assumed would be a more significant cost than just buying a new Phase One camera body and keeping my IQ back - and keep the old current camera as a back up body.

I am happy to believe the first assumption about the cost of upgrading on a Hasselbad may still be true (others may have sound reasons to disagree) - the assumption about a new Phase One camera coming out - especially one that really addresses the short comings of the 645DF - well I guess time will tell.

The other reality I find is that the DOF is really so much less on the IQ180 than with 35mm - so I rarely shoot wider than f8 - so that often means introduction of artificial light. Not the end of the world but still something to be taken into consideration in my opinion.


Mal
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
Ken we met at our (Digital Transitions) IQ event in NYC, right? I'm the tall nerdy guy :).

So, time for the questions.....
1. I have an opportunity to buy a Mamiya AFDII and Leaf Aptus 75 (33MP) for a very good price through a friend of mine. I realize both pieces are 1+ generations old, however, in order to get my feet wet, will this system work well with the latest version of Capture One (purchased pro version recently)?
Yes.

2. Can the Leaf Aptus 75 be tethered to Capture One?
Yes.

3. Will I be missing any functionality when tethered to C1 as compared to the DM33 kit?
Yes. As compared to the DM33:
- Speed of tethering is significantly slower than the DM33 in three ways: 1) the time between frames 2) the time to render the image on screen 3) you may hit a buffer
- The LCD of the 75 will not show the image while shooting tethered. Depending on what you're shooting this may be a huge issue, or a complete non issue. On a DM33 the LCD continues to work when tethering.

4. What are the functional differences between the Mamiya AFDII and the Mamiya AFDIII and Mamiya DF?
Major differences:
Autofocus Speed.
Autofocus Accuracy.
Shutter responsiveness (the AFDII has a significant shutter lag)
Compatibility with LS lenses.
Compatibility with V-Grip Air.
Ergonomics.


5. I realize I will not be able to use leaf shutter lenses, so is my only hit regarding this limitation the 1/250 shutter speed, in lieu of the 1/1600 speed?
It's not simply a matter of a lens with a shutter and a lens without.

The look of the LS lenses tends to be less clinical and more smooth. I'd say they have a bit more "romance". Of course it's somewhat subtle, and open to personal aesthetics - moreover if you asked me what my favorite lens was on the system I'd say the 150D without hesitating; though the 110LS is not far behind :).

6. My intent is to use this with one or two lenses for products and headshots initially, to develop a solid workflow and then, if everything works well, potentially use it for fashion and commercial people photography. Do you see any limitations?
For fashion and portraits, even if you prefer shooting a bit slower, the speed of the 75 versus faster backs can be a major practical limitation, as well as the shutter lag and sync speed. In my experience the portraits will be the genre that suffers most since many non-models often can only fully relax for fleeting moments, and if the shutter lag of the AFDII, or the inability to shoot another frame (since you just shot one and you're waiting for the back to be ready again) stops you from getting the frame it can frustrate you as the photographer. And even if you're very good at maintaining a professional demeanor - if you're frustrated the client can tell (or maybe that's just in my head! :)).

7. My biggest gripe with the 645DF was the (pardon the frankness) horribly limited autofocus system. I realize the DF AF was improved over the AFDIII and AFDII, but is the AFDII AF really bad?
Autofocus in medium format is always going to depend on what you're comparing it to. So the DF autofocus is very "horribly limited" when compared to, e.g. a 1Ds III. But compared to an AFDII it is a joy. Less hunting, faster locking, and the ability to select from "speed" and "precision" modes (good for shooting moving people vs. static buildings for instance).

The other major difference between AFDII and DF autofocus is low-light-thresholds. A DF performs decently in a medium-dim environment. The AFDII requires a nice bright environment.

8. I read somewhere there is a dongle required to use the A75 live view with C1. Is this true? If so, what is it and where do I get it?
No. That is not correct.

Capture One Pro supports Aptus 75 Live View without a dongle.

I'd have to double check that Live View is supported on an AFD2. I know for sure it is with an AFD3 and DF.

10. Are there any highly recommended f/2.8 lenses in the 110-160mm range that are recommended for this setup?
150/2.8D is the only autofocus 2.8 lens in that range available to you on an AFD2. On a DF body you could also use the 110/2.8LS.

However, this is a good example, maybe, of questions you didn't know to ask. So I'll ask them for you:

"Are any of the older lenses a good fit for wide-open portraits? Are they compatible with this body/back?"
For a variety of reasons I think you'll find the 80/1.9 lens from the older Mamiya lens line and the 140 soft-focus to be interesting options for you (and not very expensive). Both are manual stop down and manual focus (with a viewfinder autofocus confirmation light), but if you're purchasing them to shoot wide open then you may love using them for portraits. The forum has some good examples of those lenses used for portraits. Such "older" lenses are usually not clinically sharp, especially wide open, but can render very beautiful images and, of course, a clinically sharp image is not always the goal.

"I like a wide open look - do I need a 2.8 lens? I'm used to shooting an 85/1.2 near wide open"
As you may know (maybe others reading this do not) the aperture's effect on DOF is relative to format size. So an 85/1.2 and a 110/2.8 are much closer in DOF than you might think based on the 1.2 and 2.8 apertures. Moreover DOF is a "more complicated than you thought" subject. For instance a lot of the perceived niceness of shallow DOF is that as you open up the in-focus areas are more visually separated from out-of-focus areas. In other words the blurrier the background the more your eyes are attracted to the the sharp areas in the image. Notably though, the other side of the equation matters as well: the SHARPER the in-focus areas are the more they separate out the out-of-focus areas. So a 33mp (or 40/60/80mp etc) image with no AA filter and a lens which shows great detail may not need the same "absolute" depth-of-field to impart the same "niceness". Yada yada yada... you may find you don't shoot as far wide open (even after translating the "relative" aperture when shooting with medium format. Depth of field (as measured by the eye looking at a print rather than by the numbers) is EXTREMELY thin at 2.8 with a 150/2.8 and a DM33.

9. Any other thoughts, comments, advice on this matter would be GREATLY appreciated!!
It sounds to me like you're falling into a common trap on selecting a digital back system. You've found a good deal on a system and THEH are trying to figure out if it will work for you.

Instead I always suggest you START by figuring out what works for you, exploring the full range of options and THEN narrowing down on what's right for you (brand/model/camera wise), and THEN trying to find a good deal on it. There are always deals; but a good deal on the wrong equipment for your needs is still a bad deal.
 

Chris Giles

New member
I think the 1.8 seconds between shots would be a big 'no' signal.
I was looking into the 75 but the 75s or Aptus II 7 would be a better idea if going 33mp.
 

David Schneider

New member
9. Any other thoughts, comments, advice on this matter would be GREATLY appreciated!!
Ken,

I enjoyed your program at GPPDV a few years ago. I remember the model; she looked so blah standing there and just came to life in front of the camera.

I can't speak to most of your questions as I use a Hasselblad, but can re-assure you that once you go medium format, regardless if it's a generation behind the latest and greatest, there will be a noticeable difference in your files. You'll look at a well focused Canon image and think it's out of focus. Retouching is easier. Your observations of tonal range and gradation are accurate.

It is reasonably important to have a camera that works well with your style of shooting and ergonomics. It also takes some time to adjust to using mfd, even if you've used medium format film cameras previously.

If you want to borrow my H3D2-39, four lenses, waist level finder, for a couple of days, let me know. I'm in East Brunswick. You can use either Phocus, free download from Hasselblad, or Lightroom to develop raw files.
 

Transposure

New member
Thank you all for your generosity with your responses. Doug, especially, thank you. And yes, I do remember you, the tall nerdy guy! LOL

If I choose to go down this road, I would do so in the Phase One/Mamiya camp for a variety of reasons regarding relationships that I currently have, among others. That said, as a small studio, capital outlays have to be divided up amongst various purchases, including the latest DSLR and backups as well as lighting. As for DSLR, I plan to purchase the 1DX when it becomes available because I need the speed and compact state of the art tool for most of my work. Also, I now require video and currently do not have in-house video. ANy video needs always meant rentals. Lighting is strictly Profoto including 8A, D4, B2 and D1 solutions.

This brings me to the three headed beast...Medium Format Digital....
My extensive tests show a marginal improvement of the DM33 compared to the 1Ds Mark 3 (a few comparison results in the link in my previous post). I like improvement BUT there is a big disparity between the improvement and the cost of entry to realize that improvement. And yes, I realize the whole diminishing returns thing.

It comes down to cost and need. This is why I was considering the generation old solution to get my proverbial feet wet. I figured I would deal with the focusing slowness and the slower capture rate, knowing that it is about the file and I can always move into a current product to realize those improvements. Again, the file improvements over the 1Ds3 were not earth shattering. As I said in a previous post, the biggest difference was in the tonality of the gradations from light to dark. This was witnessed in two separate tests with the DM33, one with a live model (lavender makeup portrait in the beauty/fashion portfolio on my site) and one with still objects lit specifically to show weaknesses of the two systems.

If the generation old kit shows a consistent improvement in my work, I would then upgrade in the future. If the difference is minimal, I would rethink that. In either case, the capital outlay was commensurate with the trial and education.

After all of this, realizing the primary use of a MFD solution would be for headshots, I am starting to think my original gut feel was correct. That occurred many months ago wherein I was drawn to a RZ67 with a digital back. Since I would resolve myself to manual focus for a headshot and stills only on a camera stand in the studio, it could be the ticket. Couple that with the fact that the crop is actually a benefit by having the "sweet spot" of the image circle captured!

Here are some examples of the type of headshots I have captured in the studio with the 1DS3.....
 
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