Hand-holding the DF/IQ180

[Bill Caulfeild-Browne]

I'm taking a trip to the Arctic in a few months, with frequent shore excursions in Zodiacs. It may not be possible to take a heavy tripod so I have been checking just how steadily I can hand-hold the DF. I normally use a tripod for just about everything.

Basically I tested with a tripod and then without. I used a variety of speeds and a variety of lenses. My conclusion is that I'm just not steady enough to use any shutter speed less than 1/100th under any circumstances (even with the 45 mm or less) and that twice the focal length should be my absolute minimum guide if I want tripod-quality sharpness - that is, 1/160th with the standard lens or 1/300th with 150 mm.

I'm interested in how others fare with hand-holding. Am I just too decrepit (I'm in my 60s!) or am I being realistic?

 

[jagsiva]

I used the DF with Aptus 12 and primarily 80LS during a 10 day golfing trip to Scotland. As you might imagine, 20-30mph sustained winds and 50-60mph gusts were normal.

I found that I needed to be at 1/125 to 1/160 to be almost certain of a shot. After the second day, I just set the camera to 1/125 and played with the aperture as much as I could. I did not really use anything longer than the 80mm, but I would guess you are quite right with the 1/2x.

One thing you have going for you in the arctic would be the bright days as opposed to the clammy, wet, cloudy, windy mess I had to deal with, along with a golf swing that just refused to co-operate!

 

[Don Libby]

You're being very realistic. I'm getting very close to the midway point of 60 myself and no matter the focal length I'd never shoot hand held under 1/125 and in most cases faster. I'd also play with the ISO to see if I can gain speed.

 

[docmoore]

You're being very realistic. I'm getting very close to the midway point of 60 myself and no matter the focal length I'd never shoot hand held under 1/125 and in most cases faster. I'd also play with the ISO to see if I can gain speed.

Come on guys ... trip of a lifetime and you want to handhold an 80MP back.

How about a CF monopod with a RRS head...you become the other two legs.

Works for me with a 300/400 lens and it packs anywhere and weighs next to nothing....great for sending the errant penguin packing...

Bob

 

[Shashin]

Practicing helps. So does giving up coffee--I am serious. I have handheld lots of camera and mostly large ones with and without mirrors. I find normal or wider is fairly easy, longer and the reciprocal of the shutter speed does not work for me. A monopod is not a bad idea, but I find it gives me about a stop more. I have taken some really small tripods as well, the results can be surprising. When in doubt, just take the picture--it might work out.

 

[tsjanik]

I'm taking a trip to the Arctic in a few months, with frequent shore excursions in Zodiacs. It may not be possible to take a heavy tripod so I have been checking just how steadily I can hand-hold the DF. I normally use a tripod for just about everything.

Basically I tested with a tripod and then without. I used a variety of speeds and a variety of lenses. My conclusion is that I'm just not steady enough to use any shutter speed less than 1/100th under any circumstances (even with the 45 mm or less) and that twice the focal length should be my absolute minimum guide if I want tripod-quality sharpness - that is, 1/160th with the standard lens or 1/300th with 150 mm.

I'm interested in how others fare with hand-holding. Am I just too decrepit (I'm in my 60s!) or am I being realistic?

Bill:

If it makes you feel any better, I don't think it is age related. I'm 64 and can hold a camera as well as I ever could, which is not very well. A tripod or at least a monopod is indispensible. Try this test (which you likely know already): have the sun hit the front of a lens with a filter, project the reflection at a flat, shaded surface at a distance of at least 30 ft. Now watch the reflection and then ask a twenty-year-old to repeat the procedure.
It's an experiment that convinced me to use a tripod below 1/500 (and a tripod would still be better).

Tom

 

[Jack]

Bill, it's definitely doable. the only thing is ratcheting expectations as compared to when tripod mounted with mirror up. I think 2x reciprocal of lens focal is a good base point, but I have had success at direct reciprocal, but it's never a sure thing.

 

[SergeiR]

well.. CF tripod and Acratech (lighter than RRS) head would be me advice. It just seems easier and less stressful than coming back and swearing at yerself..

 

[kdphotography]

I would opt for a small traveler sized tripod like Terry's, http://forum.getdpi.com/forum/gear-fs-wtb/34957-fs-gitzo-1550t-carbon-fiber-tripod.html or similar small lightweight tripod from Feisol or even RRS TQC14?

Sure it may be otherwise unsuitable for the DF and IQ180 on its own, but you can "press into it" to steady it, and I bet this would be far more stable than a monopod, yet pretty close to the same to take along.

 

[John Black]

A monopod can work for me if there is little or no wind. But, if it is windy, then I start to sway in the wind, and the monopod follows my lead. If it is gusty, forget about it.

With regards to handholding the DF (with a P65), I've had horrible results with the 80D and 80LS. But for reasons unknown, I've had good results with the 110LS. I try to keep my shutter speeds at 2-3x the focal length if shooting handheld.

 

[subrata1965]

I hope you are also carrying Canon or Nikon for high ISO performance.

DF & IQ is NOT suitable for every situation.

It would be wise to make a sharper image with lower resolution & DR, than struggling with with DF & IQ180. I'm not sure what's the acceptable ISO of Sensor+.

Another option is you can rent this (I never tried though):

Kenyon Gyro Stabilizers

When Phase One will wake up and provide the features of $3K cameras in $30K/$40K cameras?

 

[yaya]

I'd take a tripod but if I have to shoot handheld, I would...
On a 44" print of your best landscape shot nobody is going to see a bit of movement!

 

[gazwas]

Totally doable but so is jumping from a moving car at 40mph.

My point being, you'll never be totally sure of the outcome until after the event. You've got to decide if that's a risk worth taking?

Tripod or at least a monopod is needed IMO.

 

[danlindberg]

A light monopod is much better than nothing. Two things to remember, firstly use a fast enough shutter so that mirror slam does not smudge the image. Secondly, do not hold the camera too firm, it is easier not to sway if you hold it loose and smooth and just guide it into position. The heavier the camera, the looser the grip on a monopod.

 

[subrata1965]

I would not take that risk in such expensive trip. Rather keep a (Canon / Nikon) backup as well. It will depend on how much wave you will encounter as well as available light.

In Alaska, I have used AFD II & P45+ mostly @ ISO 200, shutter btw. 1/125 to 1/250. I had my Gitzo 2 series with me, however handheld was more comfortable from the boats, as entire platform swings on water.

Same experiences were also shared by Michael Reichmann & Bill Atkinson when they were photographing Antartica from the cruise ship.

Totally doable but so is jumping from a moving car at 40mph.

My point being, you'll never be totally sure of the outcome until after the event. You've got to decide if that's a risk worth taking?

Tripod or at least a monopod is needed IMO.

 

[MarkoRepse]

If you can live with a little less compositional accuracy, then using the camera in MUP mode and with a 0.5s timer delay will minimize camera vibration. However on a boat environment this might have no effect at all...

 

[JonMo]

Bill, you could try posting on a DSLR Video forum about a good chest harness stablizer.
I used on for project with a 1D mark III and it was very good to help keep it steady.
I can't remember which brand but it went on like a vest and held the cam at eye level.

 

[Shashin]

I'd take a tripod but if I have to shoot handheld, I would...
On a 44" print of your best landscape shot nobody is going to see a bit of movement!

+1

 

[Shashin]

If you can live with a little less compositional accuracy, then using the camera in MUP mode and with a 0.5s timer delay will minimize camera vibration. However on a boat environment this might have no effect at all...

I have found you are actually less steady when shooting blind with Mirror lock up as you camera is more likely to drift during the exposure.

 

[EH21]

Bill,
My trick for slow shutter without tripods has always been to take several frames of important things when possible. It seems one of the frames will be sharp even at impossible shutter speeds like 1/8 or 1/15 using a wide lens like the 50mm. Memory cards are cheap and the capture one focus mask tool really helps to quickly identify the sharp images and trash the others.

Probably not worth it for just one trip, but I'll bet some of the tech cameras will be able to shoot at slower speeds than the DF body.

My personal experience with the DF + Aptus 12 hand held was not good. I have much better luck with the AFi body possibly because the ergonomics suit me better and possibly because the camera is smoother. Still, I did not get there without some practice and testing as to what techniques worked best. I practiced trying different hand/body positions tethered to C1 with the focus mask on - this was really invaluable as it was immediate feedback as to what worked and what didn't. I guess with the IQ you can also just use the back's focus mask too for this? Even easier!


Eric