LS Lens Trouble

[JasonQuibilan]

Hi Everyone!

Some insights please:

Was just testing my Mamiya 645 DF (with DM22) with the Mamiya 80mm LS D, particularly flash sync. Ran thru the motions, from 1/125 and peaked at 1/1600. After a few shots, the lens suddenly acts up and does not close back up immediately. Now the shots all look like they were half a second long, with ambient light coming in. Was using both PW Plus II's and Sync Cords (alternately). I checked and played with the Custom Settings, no joy. Tested the 80LS as FS lens only, and it works ok up until 1/125, it's max sync speed, didn't push any further.

Does it sound like my lens just got busted? It's brand new, along with everything else...

TIA!


Jason

 

[FredBGG]

Many people have had this type of problem.

The whole DF system is not very stable and things can get messed up.

Try this. It works for some, but not all.

This happened to me during my last shooting in Bangkok. Thanks god I had also a 50mm lens so I was able to finish the shooting. Later that day a Swiss Phase One rep gave me a hint that fixed the issue. Remove the lens from the camera. Remove the back, remove the CF card and battery from the back. Remove the battery from the camera. Remove the grip from the camera if you have one. Wait 2-3 minutes. Reassemble the camera. Mount the lens. Turn it on.

In my case this caused a reset and the shutter in the lens opened again and since then is again fully usable.

He also mentioned that in case the shuttle opens but doesn't work use C-18 setting on the camera to change to the camera shutter.

I had to do this with certain combinations of camera and lens. It got to a point where I had had enough and stopped using Phase One gear.

Here is a thread on the Phase One forum:
Phase One, Leaf and Mamiya Official User to User Forum • View topic - SCHNEIDER 80MM LENS SHUTTER JAMMED

If it's brand new I would return it if the problem does not go away right away.
Some have had long ordeals trying to get rid of bugs. Others have been luckier.
You may have a lemon and you may want to return it while you still can. Maybe just for another copy of camera and lens.

 

[JoshMerwin]

You also may have it set to focal shutter only? You might want to check that just to make sure. I hope this gets solved quickly. I had an 80 LS that the blades wouldn't retract all the way and they had to replace the entire shutter system. It was ridiculously expensive and frustrating since I hadn't dropped it or done anything wrong to the lens. It just randomly happened. The Mac group did take care of it super quickly for me though. Those guys are great. Glad it wasn't the phase version, which would have required sending it overseas for repair. I also stopped using the DF because if it's instability. Hopefully they ge the next camera right.

 

[DSemick]

Glad it wasn't the phase version, which would have required sending it overseas for repair.

Minor correction, but the MAC Group is handling repairs to Phase branded DF Bodies and LS lenses. Turnaround is on par with repairs to the Mamiya branded hardware.

Denny

 

[JasonQuibilan]

Thanks everyone!

I've already confirmed that there's a problem with my brand new, 2 week old lens by using it on another DF camera... I've probably shot less that 100 images with it... what a drag!

It still has warranty of course, and the dealer has already been informed, too bad I'm in Manila and they're in Hongkong...

Thanks for the inputs...

 

[kipling]

if you haven't checked, make sure all the firmware is updated to the most recent. this was a known issue, and I also have had the same problem on several lenses on different bodies. updating the firmware of my iq back and the df body solved the problem.
also, don't expect your dealer to know what the problem is (mine didn't) and don't expect phase one to give you any fast answers (they had no idea what the problem was although it's been an issue for many df owners).

 

[JoshMerwin]

Denny,
Is that new? I thought I had the phase version and was told that it would have to go back to phase...but then I checked and saw that it was mamiya and so Mac group said they could obviously Repair it. This was around late December. This would be the first I have heard of it. But a huge benefit to Phase owners.

 

[DSemick]

Denny,
Is that new? I thought I had the phase version and was told that it would have to go back to phase...but then I checked and saw that it was mamiya and so Mac group said they could obviously Repair it. This was around late December. This would be the first I have heard of it. But a huge benefit to Phase owners.

Basically, It has to do with the RMA procedure that the two companies have in place. A Phase lens has to be routed through the appropriate channels for tracking purposes. In the majority of cases, it ends up at MAC for repair though.

Denny

 

[kravetzphoto]

Something similar happened to me recently and today before a shoot. I was not able to change the aperture and autofocus wasn't working. When I was able to change the aperture, the exposure at f2.8 was the same as at f22. Sometimes, after removing batteries etc., aperture value disappear from the top LCD and I can't fire the shutter.
I also played around with C18 in custom functions menu with no luck either.
When I switch to M on the lens, I can take pictures, but still can't change the aperture. And when switch to autofocus and then press the shutter, it still won't fire and it gives me "Err DB" message.

In the end I gave up ended up shooting with my old Nikon D700.

I use rechargeables in the body. Could they cause this?

My current firmware versions are:
P30+ FW - 5.1.2
Phase One DF FW - 1.55
Schneider 80mm LS FW - 1.23

Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[gazwas]

Can't offer a solution sorry but reading the Phase forums, lens lock ups seem quite common complaints on the new LS lenses. 80mm sems most complained about from memory which is a shame considering how good the lens is optically.

 

[kipling]

Hard to tell. I've had several issues over the years with the 80mm as well.
The closing aperture thing was mostly solved by the last Firmware update, although it has reoccurred a few times. I've also had autofocus issues recently, where the AF motor in the lens wouldn't stop, even after taking the lens off the camera (!) you could here it whirling on for about 15 seconds. Very strange.

My guess is that most of the problems are electronics issues and that they'll simply happen, usually at the worst possible time.

Having back up lenses is a good idea with this camera.

Something similar happened to me recently and today before a shoot. I was not able to change the aperture and autofocus wasn't working. When I was able to change the aperture, the exposure at f2.8 was the same as at f22. Sometimes, after removing batteries etc., aperture value disappear from the top LCD and I can't fire the shutter.
I also played around with C18 in custom functions menu with no luck either.
When I switch to M on the lens, I can take pictures, but still can't change the aperture. And when switch to autofocus and then press the shutter, it still won't fire and it gives me "Err DB" message.

In the end I gave up ended up shooting with my old Nikon D700.

I use rechargeables in the body. Could they cause this?

My current firmware versions are:
P30+ FW - 5.1.2
Phase One DF FW - 1.55
Schneider 80mm LS FW - 1.23

Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[kravetzphoto]

Hard to tell. I've had several issues over the years with the 80mm as well.
The closing aperture thing was mostly solved by the last Firmware update, although it has reoccurred a few times. I've also had autofocus issues recently, where the AF motor in the lens wouldn't stop, even after taking the lens off the camera (!) you could here it whirling on for about 15 seconds. Very strange.

My guess is that most of the problems are electronics issues and that they'll simply happen, usually at the worst possible time.

Having back up lenses is a good idea with this camera.

How did you fix your autofocus problem?


It is a fantastic lens! My dealer is checking this issue with Phase One for me. Should hear from them tomorrow.

 

[kipling]

Well, it's strange...the lens was whirling so loud I was kind of in shock. So I held it up to my assistant and asked him if he knew what was going on. He had no idea. I then took the lens off and it just kept on, like the motor was in high gear. It did that for about 15 to 20 seconds, then stopped.
I then do what I always do when cameras start to freak on me:
shut everything off, take the back off, lens off, batteries out, change the batteries in the body and back, put it all back together and restart.
It worked and I haven't had any issues after that.
I think a lot of the problems stem from electronic issues.
I was shooting at night, with a flash trigger, the camera was hunting some, so there was a lot of things going on in the camera – af motor, af assist light, the back itself, flash trigger firing, etc. and maybe the batteries were a little depleted...I don't know stuff like that happens more than you'd expect or hope.

Something similar happened to me recently and today before a shoot. I was not able to change the aperture and autofocus wasn't working. When I was able to change the aperture, the exposure at f2.8 was the same as at f22. Sometimes, after removing batteries etc., aperture value disappear from the top LCD and I can't fire the shutter.
I also played around with C18 in custom functions menu with no luck either.
When I switch to M on the lens, I can take pictures, but still can't change the aperture. And when switch to autofocus and then press the shutter, it still won't fire and it gives me "Err DB" message.

In the end I gave up ended up shooting with my old Nikon D700.

I use rechargeables in the body. Could they cause this?

My current firmware versions are:
P30+ FW - 5.1.2
Phase One DF FW - 1.55
Schneider 80mm LS FW - 1.23

Any advice would be much appreciated.

How did you fix your autofocus problem?


It is a fantastic lens! My dealer is checking this issue with Phase One for me. Should hear from them tomorrow.

 

[kravetzphoto]

Update on my situation:
I heard back from the dealer and the repair of the 80mm LS will cost me $650!

I bought the lens in a kit (store demo) with DF and P30+ in the end of December. The body and the lens had only 3 months warranty on them. It's bitter pill to swallow, considering how hard it was to make financial commitment (like for many of us) and make the switch to medium format.
Don't get me wrong, I still love the quality of my images and it keeps blowing my mind, it's just I wasn't ready to pay this much money and so soon for this kind of equipment.

 

[adamduckworth]

Mine has just done the same... locked up on a job.

I did the re-set thing but it's not worked... so off for a repair.

My kit doesn't get hard use and it totally babied.. so it's a right pain the lens messed up on a big job. Looks so unprofessional.

When my IQ160 then began eating batteries, the art director was laughing at the camera! So my "edge" over rivals by using MF instead of a DLSR was wiped out.. and even reversed.

Luckily I had DSLR backup.