Hi,
I am a newbie, considering upgrade to MFDB. One thing I really know is that I would be doing quite a bit of focus stacking work. With the D3S it is ofcourse a charm (live view, multiple AF points, least to say - a tripod is sufficient!).
With the Hassey, as I see it, it will not be that easy - since there is only one AF point and no live view. Either I recompose to precision (so that I do not lose pixels in the focus stacking software) or I use a focusing rail. Also, most times, I will not be shooting tethered.
So questions:
1/
Is that the only way to do it ? I know at least one hasselblad master Hans Strand { www.hansstrand.com } who shoots landscapes and does not use a focusing rail always (but uses focus stacking to get more dof). Is there something I am missing wrt focus stacking technique per se ? Will be glad to hear some points!
2/
Would investing in the IQ series alleviate these problems ? (i am reading up about other differences between the two systems, have tried my hands on both the systems also - but nothing significant enough to conclude yet - just to say I am not just forum-posting from the word 'go!'; and thought i will take some advice from experts here!)
3/
I have currently short listed a H3D-39, H3DII-39 and looking for a H3DII-50. I need to print really large and am looking in the 2m range for the heights of the print. I have an offer for an H4D-60, too. Cost will of course be a factor for my purchase, but I think I will be able to make an informed decision if I assume for the moment that the cost is not a factor. I know that the H3D[II]s have the largest pixel pitch. When using a 120/4 macro how does it all fall in place ? Can I go any lower than f/16 ? I read a comparison between the 120/4 on a H3D vs. Nikon 105/2.8 on D3 { Hasselblad vs Nikon | Nadine Shaw Photography } which said he could not get good results with the Hassey. Will appreciate if someone can drop a few notes about it.
I am a newbie, considering upgrade to MFDB. One thing I really know is that I would be doing quite a bit of focus stacking work. With the D3S it is ofcourse a charm (live view, multiple AF points, least to say - a tripod is sufficient!).
With the Hassey, as I see it, it will not be that easy - since there is only one AF point and no live view. Either I recompose to precision (so that I do not lose pixels in the focus stacking software) or I use a focusing rail. Also, most times, I will not be shooting tethered.
So questions:
1/
Is that the only way to do it ? I know at least one hasselblad master Hans Strand { www.hansstrand.com } who shoots landscapes and does not use a focusing rail always (but uses focus stacking to get more dof). Is there something I am missing wrt focus stacking technique per se ? Will be glad to hear some points!
2/
Would investing in the IQ series alleviate these problems ? (i am reading up about other differences between the two systems, have tried my hands on both the systems also - but nothing significant enough to conclude yet - just to say I am not just forum-posting from the word 'go!'; and thought i will take some advice from experts here!)
3/
I have currently short listed a H3D-39, H3DII-39 and looking for a H3DII-50. I need to print really large and am looking in the 2m range for the heights of the print. I have an offer for an H4D-60, too. Cost will of course be a factor for my purchase, but I think I will be able to make an informed decision if I assume for the moment that the cost is not a factor. I know that the H3D[II]s have the largest pixel pitch. When using a 120/4 macro how does it all fall in place ? Can I go any lower than f/16 ? I read a comparison between the 120/4 on a H3D vs. Nikon 105/2.8 on D3 { Hasselblad vs Nikon | Nadine Shaw Photography } which said he could not get good results with the Hassey. Will appreciate if someone can drop a few notes about it.
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