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advice on a portrait setup

danlindberg

Well-known member
I am getting more and more requests for portraits and since I am utterly hooked on my Alpa tech cameras I do not have any other digital cameras at all. 99% of my photography is covered with what I have and would not change it for the world.
However, the 1% remaining is the occasional headshot, preferbly in available light but also studio shots. I would probably not do this a lot, but it would be nice to be able to do it. Not the least to make some nice images of my two lovely daughters...

I am not looking at starting to build on a new sytem, no, I am talking about 1 body with 1 lens. The perfect portrait lens!

Since my Leaf Aptus II 5 is in Mamiya mount my idea is as follows:

Buy a second hand DF body.
Buy a converting ring for Hasselblad V lenses.
Buy a Hasselblad Planar F 110/2 lens.

The F 110/2 lens is one of my long time favorites and with my 48x36 sensor the bokeh shouldn't be far off a Noctilux on a M9. (for a fraction of the price)

I need advice in that I have no idea if this is doable?
If it matters what Mamiya body I choose, since autofocus is not on the agenda? (other pluses with DF body?)
And maybe the most important question, how probable is it that focusing is accurate of what I see in the viewfinder? And if it isn't - can it be calibrated?

I could glue this lens to the body, it is a fixed lens solution - if it works out!

What do you say. Good or bad idea?

Thanks :)
 

kdphotography

Well-known member
Hi Dan,

I've always been an advocate of a good DSLR to complement a MFDB system. Maybe it's the gear whore in me speaking too because it's also nice to have a good M4/3 camera too.... ;) But if you really want to have a one or two lens MFDB DSLR portrait kit---it is definitely do-able.

I use the DF body and IQ180 for portraits. My favorite portrait lens is the Phase 150mm f/2.8 D, followed closely by the Schneider 110M LS. Faster moving subjects get the Canon 1DsMark III.

Autofocus on the DF is substantially better than previous bodies. Improvements in AF between the other bodies is slight; the DF is a noticeable improvement. There are several CF selections to adjust AF to taste.

ken
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
If you choose to go with the V mount adapter and 110/2 then you really wouldn't need the extra cost & sophistication of the DF and could go with a MUCH cheaper AFD II/III body. The DF will give you LS glass support and better AF but with the V mount you wouldn't need either.
 

danlindberg

Well-known member
Thanks to both of you!

I definitely want to use the Aptus, for its skincolours. (and because I have it)

Yes, maybe in this case it does not matter which model of the body I choose?

The important thing is that I can calibrate lens/body (if needed) to obtain accurate focus!
 

Stefan Steib

Active member
Dan

why don´t you use your ALPA for the Portraits- probably with your 120mm ? generations of Photographers have shot portraits with viewcameras and made the BEST portraits, many not even reached today - see some here

http://prettynpoppington.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Greta_Garbo_03.jpg

http://i2.listal.com/image/3627477/936full-greta-garbo.jpg

http://www.1zoom.net/big2/640/276916-zero.jpg

http://www.1zoom.net/big2/283/277146-zero.jpg

and so on. Why don´t you just try ? You will be surprised how much the images will gain when you "despeed/deescalize" the process.

Regards
Stefan
 

docmoore

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Dan,

I would second the option of using the Alpa...add a background and light source.

One of my favorite Portrait Photographers uses a Rolleiflex....and I have not seen many session photos that appeal to me more. Location or non static is a different thing but I am still enthralled with these:

William Coupon

Bob
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
I need advice in that I have no idea if this is doable?
If it matters what Mamiya body I choose, since autofocus is not on the agenda? (other pluses with DF body?)
And maybe the most important question, how probable is it that focusing is accurate of what I see in the viewfinder? And if it isn't - can it be calibrated?
110/2 is hard to focus regardless of accuracy. Even an errant breath between focusing and shooting will result in being off by more than the DOF. You will have a lower hit rate than with most other lenses.

None of that is to say you won't love the combination. Just go in with realistic expectations. Even a 1Dx with it's really great AF system cannot hit every frame with an 85/1.2.

If the focus of the viewfinder does not match the focus on your back then it can be adjusted for free under warranty or for a nominal fee if out of warranty. If you buy your body from a dealer I would make the sale contingent on a proper match. I've seen very few bodies be sent in because of such a mismatch but it is possible, especially if the body was roughly handled.

A lot of DF bodies will be coming on to the market as the DF+ starts to ship in October (I don't expect every owner to upgrade or anything, but for various reasons many will and e.g. dealer demo units will also be sold in order to have DF+ units to demo). So I'd wait until then if you're looking for a DF (or work with a dealer that is already looking to move their DF demo units).

Also consider the Phase One 150mm / 2.8 D lens. It's rendering wide open is out of this world. The Schneider 110/2.8 LS is also really great regarding rendering and would provide you flash sync at any shutter speed up to 1/1600th (you'll need a flash with decent flash duration and an Air transmitter or hard cable to get it, but that's easy to do). Lighting is a huge part of what makes a successful portrait, and when it's not there in nature it helps to add/shape it yourself :), working wide open you'll have shutter speeds of 1/800 and even faster even at ISO50 if you're working anywhere near daylite, so the fast flash sync would come in very handy, even if it's only to add a bit of fill.
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
The improvements to autofocus in the DF apply equally to the speed/accuracy/stability of the AF Focus Indicator when focusing with a manual focus lens.

So even if you only ever use a manual focus lens you may find the AF improvement a big help.
 

danlindberg

Well-known member
Stefan,

Actually the Schneider 120 is producing lovely bokeh @f5.6 and is really sharp as well wide open. So, yes, that is a great lens for portraits.
And it 'could' work if I stage a model carefully and almost make it a static scene.
But.....try that with my 8 year old....not that I would be lightning fast with the 110/2, but in comparison I atleast have a chance.

Believe me, if there was a workaround using the TC and the 120, I would look no further.
 

danlindberg

Well-known member
Doug,

Thanks for your detailed answer. Really great to get info before I get into something that does not work as intended.

YOU KNOW WHAT! Thanks to you guys here I am going to give the combo Alpa TC & Schneider 120 a serious go. I'm not totally sure exactly how, but if others can do - then I'll learn :D
 

gazwas

Active member
IMO a DF or Phase AF/AFDIII with the 150D would make an excellent combination. Having the ability when needed to use AF and the fact it doubles as a very nice manual focus lens (unlike some other Phase/Schneider lenses) its an excellent choice.

The 150D is very sharp even wide open and has wafter thin DOF.
 

Stefan Steib

Active member
I have even another proposal:
Forget the DF for Children. It is too slow for this.
Even MF. For this buy a D800 and a 1,4/85 and a 1,4/24
or a fast 24-70mm with stabilizer.
All the rest you could do with the ALPA..... :)

regards
Stefan
 

stngoldberg

Well-known member
attach your back to the Hasselblad H4X and enjoy True Focus-just amazing for portraits-focus on the eyes Dan and recompose until you have what you want-be careful what you wish for because this camera can deliver it.
Stanley
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
Stan

Dan has a Mamiya mount Aptus so unfortunately that would be an expensive option if only due to the Alpa adapter change (plus Hassy obviously).
 

Shashin

Well-known member
Go with your Alpa. Avadon and Newman did not do too bad when limited to view cameras. AF is just a crutch. ;)
 

homeiss

New member
Hi Dan,

If you still have your GX680 kit you could always get an adapter from Kapture Group and be on your way. It would save you from buying into a new system and would work fine for the occasional head shot.

Regards,
Cory
 

kdphotography

Well-known member
No actually you could tie your kids to the GX680, which would act as an effective anchor to hold them in one place long enough so you could then fine tune your focus with the Alpa....

;)
 

Valentin

New member
...
And it 'could' work if I stage a model carefully and almost make it a static scene.
But.....try that with my 8 year old....
I don't think you will be happy with any MF for fast moving kids and available light. Look into something that's better suited for it (plenty to choose from nowadays).
 

danlindberg

Well-known member
There is one factor that limits the GX680III. Mirrorslap! I need 1/250 to get it crisp without mirror lockup. With base iso 25 this is tough in ambient light.

I couldn't sleep easy yesterday, thinking about this. I think I do have a quite good workaround....assuming that it really is little movement from the model.

I could put my Alpa TC & 120 on a tripod, use it loosely on a ballhead for easy composition. And, here's my patent :p, put a flashtripod with a plate of some sort for easy focusing with the D5 outside the composition but exactly in line with the model. :D

Atleast this is what I am going to give a try at.....I'll show you results....
 
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