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any experiences with leaf credo?

there are not much user reports for the new leaf generation these days...

has anyone bought one recently and could share his/her experiences?

i'm interested in using it on a technical camera and maybe on a hasselblad v ...
 

Anders_HK

Member
Suggest you take a look at if you need the Credo iphone like interface.

An option is to go with Afi-II back which is same as Aptus-II but newer casing including tilt display and rotating sensor. Fits on the superb Hy6 camera which is like a modern AF/MF version of V. Rolleiflex Schneider lenses can be disputed being sharper tjan Hassy V. Credo does not come with rotating sensor.

I really enjoy my AFi-II 12 with Hy6 and WLF.

Best regards,
Anders
 

DeckardTrinity

New member
I tried a Credo 80 on a Mamiya 645DF a few months back, along with an Afi-II 12. I decided that for me, the much improved display on the Credo trumped the extra features of the Afi-II back. You could easily tether the Afi back to get the same level of preview quality, but I use my Hy6 extensively in the field (as well as in a studio setting), so for me, in-the-back preview quality is most important.

The Credo 80 for the Hy6 camera system will be shipping soon (according to my dealer at Capture Integration).
 

DeckardTrinity

New member
You know, now that the OP mentions it, it dawned on me that I've only seen one review of the new Credo backs (of any mount flavor), and there are a whopping 7 or 8 threads in the entirety of the PhaseOne Credo forums. Maybe the rollout has been slow? Is there anybody out there who has actually purchased a production Credo back?
 
You know, now that the OP mentions it, it dawned on me that I've only seen one review of the new Credo backs (of any mount flavor), and there are a whopping 7 or 8 threads in the entirety of the PhaseOne Credo forums. Maybe the rollout has been slow? Is there anybody out there who has actually purchased a production Credo back?
I have purchased a Credo 80 for my DF and Alpa. On my very limited user experience (for 2 month off and on shooting with both systems), in general I found it an excellent performer.

It worked without problems on the P1 DF with lenses of both Mamiya/Phase and Schneider fames. Image from it seems smoother tonally and even at times "film like", and the screen is a big plus in terms of display speed and image quality. You may however forget, for a while, about the live view which is quite limiting as is.

Mating to the Alpa, I needed to purchase another adapter which was designed for Phase One backs, instead of using the available adapter for Leaf backs on which the Credo will fit a bit too tightly and difficult to install sometimes.

Very minial or none LCC needed with my Rodi 40 HR, no big issue either with my SK 48 either (surprisingly even less issue in terms of lens color cast than when used with the Leaf A10II).

Yes it is hungry for power, so a few more spare batteries will be in order. The wakeup and shutter release cable for Phase One is needed when used with Alpa, unless you set the back to Zero Latency which eats up the battery as well as generating more heat.

Overall no regret. Happy shooting!

Philip
 

Stefan Steib

Active member
Had a Credo 60 as a lender last weekend in Karlsruhe on PPL Openhouse.
Nice back, good image quality, the touchscreen is very responsive und a definite improvement. I did not do much real shooting so that should be covered by daily users, but I have some additional thoughts.

First: if the battery goes empty it does not say battery is empty ! Instead it states there is no space on the CF card ! BUG ! Replace it with a fresh battery and the message is gone....

Second: I totally dislike the placement and the unlock of the battery compartment. Under the back, with gloves ? Suboptimal ! And my old criticism - no more large batteries available for cold weather because of the limitation to the small compartment. Actually I think this is a step backwards.

third: I could not manage to thether it ! On My "Old" and trustworthy early 2008 MBPro 17 normally ANYTHING tethers, Yes I even keep it because of this. Not so this Credo 60. Camera not found.......

Fourth: It now exposes the same mounting issue as the IQ backs, old Aptus plates will not work anymore - BIG Issue !

Regards
Stefan
 

danlindberg

Well-known member
In time I can give my input, but the back is so fresh in my hands I rather get to know it first before commenting.
So far so good - is an understatement, first impression is that I adore it. :)
 
I used one for about 5 min. It's great on a tech cam. No focus mask, but you have instant 100% view and it's easy to scroll around the image. Also the level and histogram are nice. Given the choice, I would say IQ > Credo > P-series/Aptus. The menu navigation of the Credo is like an Aptus with a great touch screen. You will have to decide whether you like that or not. If I could afford the difference between a Credo and IQ, I would go with the IQ, if not I would get the Credo and never look back.
 

danlindberg

Well-known member
Still exploring but I am amazed of the overall quality I am getting. File elasticity is incredible and it seems one can really push and pull those pixels around and not break the image apart.

One great great boost is the much talked about live view! I didn't expect to use it at all to be honest but is most of the time in my workflow now. I am NOT using it for focus at all, there is no need, the Disto and HPF rings are so accurate (and fast) that I trust this completely.

What I do is the following. I know the coverage of the lenses well (although adjusting in my head for the larger sensor size) and set up the camera without any aid of viewfinder, guesstimating composition. I know my spiritlevels so I am always horisontally correct, now, if I need movements, again I am guesstimating amount. This is where I can be 1-4 points off in my thinking. And it is also very easily done that the camera/sensor is slightly placed skewed to the flat surface, for instance getting a slight perspective on a top roofline or similar.
Put the aperture to smallest and hit live view. Immediate confirmation for correct FRAMING right on the sensor. For this purpose the quality of the image is completely irrelevant. For very tight framing this is invaluable. Look at this image below, it is not cropped and without the live view i would have needed several exposures to reframe. Now I did it in one go!! FANTASTIC!
To me framerate and screenquality has nothing to do with it! Even the batteryissue isn't a big problem, it goes on, I make a microadjustment and I switch it off. 5-7 seconds tops.
For this image I microadjusted 2 points more rise and half a degree swing to get that decorative topright line of the cathedral in perfect horizontal position. Live view on for 4 seconds. One exposure needed!
 

PeterA

Well-known member
Still exploring but I am amazed of the overall quality I am getting. File elasticity is incredible and it seems one can really push and pull those pixels around and not break the image apart.

One great great boost is the much talked about live view! I didn't expect to use it at all to be honest but is most of the time in my workflow now....
Thanks for your sharing Dan:thumbup: - very interested to hear of yours and others hands on experience. Particularly performance on a tech cam which is what it will be stuck on.

I am interested in getting a 60 megapixel back and am very interested in the CREO60 - user experience for Creo and Phase equivalent.
 

yaya

Active member
Next Tuesday, Nov' 20th we'll be running a live webinar with Frank Doorhof where he will be talking and showing some of his secrets shooting fashion and portraits and how he uses lighting and cameras. Frank uses a Credo 60 on a 645DF. This is a free webinar and everyone is welcome to join. More info and link for registration HERE

On a recent business trip to the Czech Republic we were sat in a small restaurant in Hradec Kralove and I had a Credo 60 on my Rm2D so we played a bit with Live View on a short range setup (SK 43mm):

 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
Still exploring but I am amazed of the overall quality I am getting. File elasticity is incredible and it seems one can really push and pull those pixels around and not break the image apart.
I assume you're already using Capture One 7 (at least experimentally)?

If not, prepared to see even more flexibility and fidelity for large adjustments.
 

danlindberg

Well-known member
Doug, It seems like I'm in a cul-de-sac with my imac. OSX 10.5.8 and no support to upgrade. I can do a clean install with the latest OSX but I have four years of stuff just about everywhere that I really would like to upgrade instead of a clean install....
So, I am looking at options for a new workstation, but in the meanwhile I cannot run Capture One 7 as I understand it on my OSX!? I am really eager to start working with v.7.............maybe you have a solution with my current machine?
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
Yes, with 10.8 now being the current version support for 10.5 was not considered a reasonable investment. Partly because of it's low market share (most have moved on to at least 10.6) and partly because v7 depends/benefits off of newer technologies like Open CL which (when it's working and not causing a crash) is a big boon to speed and responsively. OpenCL, in the form Phase leverages, was not around in the days of 10.5.

My solution is pretty easy! Assuming you have at least 40ish gb free on your hard drive...

Make a backup of your system as-is (just in case). I suggest Super Duper.
Borrow/beg/steal a laptop with 10.7 or 10.8 and a firewire port (or thunderbolt port with a firewire adapter) and boot your iMac holding T (firewire target disk mode).
On the 10.7 laptop use Disk Utility to create a new (empty) partition on your hard drive.
Install 10.7 or 10.8 (I'd suggest 10.7) on the new empty partition. It will not effect your 10.5.8 partition whatsoever.

You now have a 10.5.8 partition and a 10.7.x partition. You can choose which to boot into by holding option when you start the system. Regardless of which you boot into you can read/write from either.

You can then install v7 and be on your merry way. The only potential issue with this setup is permissions; so I suggest you move your photos to the "shared" folder in your users folder where there are no permission restrictions.

Unless the reason you can't upgrade is because you have a Power PC iMac (G4/G5) system. In which case: no, you'll need a new computer (little if anything in the last few years, OS or software, works on Power PC based machines).
 

danlindberg

Well-known member
Really great info Doug!! Thanks a lot :) I am going to try and solve this next week and this is definitely an option. Looking forward to COv7 :thumbup:
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
Really great info Doug!! Thanks a lot :) I am going to try and solve this next week and this is definitely an option. Looking forward to COv7 :thumbup:
Good luck.

If you want to drool over the future outcome you're welcome to PM me a link to a raw file; I'll process in v7 and send back to you as JPG or TIFF.

That should help motivate you through the hassle of the dual-boot.

The best part of the dual-boot is it lets you do a clean installation but easily migrate stuff over time, and gives you time to find anything you forgot to migrate before you - eventually - delete the 10.5 partition.
 
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