From Alpa TC to SWA or STC ?

[GrahamWelland]

Great to see that you're set up with the SWA. Every time I see one I have an almost overwhelming lustful desire to buy one - thankfully so far common sense (and available funds) has stopped me ... So far!

From personal experience, don't rush in to selling the TC until you're really sure. I sold mine a while ago and ended up buying another several months later. Hmm, I did that with my P25+ and also Leica MP & M9 - ok, so maybe it's just me The worst thing is that I still would like another Max to replace the one I traded towards my STC.

Alpa - they're addictive.

 

[danlindberg]

With a TC + SWA + MAX, one could easily suspect that one or two bodies would collect dust somewhere. But that is definitely not the case. I use them all - all the time.
I thought that the SWA would be used the least, a MAX for full movements for assigned architecture and a TC for minimalistic photowalks sounds the perfect match. However, I frequently use the SWA for easy urban photogrpahy, often with a 5mm rise as default. Brilliant tools and I would not want to get rid of any of them.....

 

[OliverM]

Alpa - they're addictive.

Getdpi is the Alpaholic Anonymous

New challenge for me : learn how to use the Alpa handheld for portraits with a low DOF. If it works, I could imagine to sell my contax (with some probability to buy one again 6 months later ...)

 

[OliverM]

With a TC + SWA + MAX, one could easily suspect that one or two bodies would collect dust somewhere. But that is definitely not the case. I use them all - all the time.
I thought that the SWA would be used the least, a MAX for full movements for assigned architecture and a TC for minimalistic photowalks sounds the perfect match. However, I frequently use the SWA for easy urban photogrpahy, often with a 5mm rise as default. Brilliant tools and I would not want to get rid of any of them.....

I will take some time before selling, as this is everyone's opinion here.
Time will tell.
Thanks a lot for the images you post here, beautiful and inspiring !

 

[GrahamWelland]

Getdpi is the Alpaholic Anonymous

Hello, I'm Graham and I'm an Alpaholic. :facesmack:

 

[jotloob]

Hello, I'm Graham and I'm an Alpaholic. :facesmack:

Hello , I'm Jürgen and I'm an Alpaholic too . But . . . I don't regret .:salute:
No psychotherapy required .

Merry X-MAS and a HAPPY NEW YEAR to all getdpi members , and especially
to all Alpaholics and Alpa lovers .

 

[rayyen]

I like the word "Alpaholic ", hahaha...

 

[rollei8is]

Yesterday the TC came out with me, 60mm Apo-Digaron-S (f4.0 very useful extra stop). And an Olympus VF1 finder, which matches the 60mm FOV very well. Alpa HPF ring and laser rangefinder. A nice light kit, and pretty rugged too. I use the Alpa single shot cable, so I don't need Zero latency, but that cable doesn't work as well as they claim IMHO.





Hi,

Narkin mentioned that the ALPA single shot cable does not work as stated,
any body have similar experience. Should I shell out $1000.00 for this or not.
Thanks,

R----

 

[GrahamWelland]

Hi,

Narkin mentioned that the ALPA single shot cable does not work as stated,
any body have similar experience. Should I shell out $1000.00 for this or not.
Thanks,

R----

Well, I've had both the KG and Alpa cable releases. The KG is sensitive to the speed that you press the release and there's a temptation to apply too much pressure during the press to ensure that the pulse triggers only once. If you do this then after a while the cheap cable release part will fail and you have to replace it.

With the Alpa the construction is superb but one thing I found was that they are sensitive to the direction of the actual release unit. When the unit is aligned so that the trigger cable is in front, vs at 90 degrees, to the shutter then it is 100% reliable in my experience. If you let it swivel to the side then it becomes more sensitive to double triggers to the back which I suspect is what Narkin is referring to. That's annoying because it'll cause a double trigger fault on the back and you have to cancel and re-shoot. This happens with the KG also if you aren't deliberately smooth in pressing the cable release too.

The advantage of the Alpa is that you can use it without the cable adapter and hence handheld shooting is possible.

Is the Alpa cable trigger worth nearly $1000? Not really but then again neither are 2x KG triggers after you've had one completely fail or fall to pieces. I do use mine most of the time but if I'm changing lenses a few times then I just go with zero latency and use a regular cable & sync cable. I have ten batteries so it's hardly a problem of not having power (it's funny how many you accumulate when you've upgraded backs a few times!).

Hope that helps.

 

[markymarkrb]

I've been staring at the FPS for the past few weeks trying to figure out this new addition to the tech cam world. I am still debating on what I would like to set my goals on but that being said, I have a few thoughts on this system. Please correct me if I am wrong. First of all, I have noticed that if you want to add the Alpa 12 lenses to it, there is no way to both tilt and rise or fall with the addition of an Alpa camera. You have to choose either tilt or rise and fall. My other observation is that if CMOS medium format comes out, this camera is in a perfect position to make a lot of people happy because with the loss of the copal shutter, it seems to be in a better position to accommodate live view. Am I wrong on this stuff?

 

[GrahamWelland]

I think that a really useable live view MFDB will be a game changer for cameras like the FPS. Having the ability to use so many different lens system glass with the FPS and actually more easily compose and focus via the MFDB really revolutionizes the platform and I'm sure that's what Alpa are planning for - a relatively future proof camera (well, as future proof as anything in this business at least).

Can you imagine what would happen if we had live view from the MFDB to an external EVF as well? Ok, I'll stop salivating right now ...

 

[rayyen]

My question may be dumb, I thought I must use a "wake-up" cable with Phase One back, I'm using P25+. What "regular cable" and "sync-cable" are you referring? Can you show me the set up?

Much appreciate your sharing in advance.

Ray

Well, I've had both the KG and Alpa cable releases. The KG is sensitive to the speed that you press the release and there's a temptation to apply too much pressure during the press to ensure that the pulse triggers only once. If you do this then after a while the cheap cable release part will fail and you have to replace it.

With the Alpa the construction is superb but one thing I found was that they are sensitive to the direction of the actual release unit. When the unit is aligned so that the trigger cable is in front, vs at 90 degrees, to the shutter then it is 100% reliable in my experience. If you let it swivel to the side then it becomes more sensitive to double triggers to the back which I suspect is what Narkin is referring to. That's annoying because it'll cause a double trigger fault on the back and you have to cancel and re-shoot. This happens with the KG also if you aren't deliberately smooth in pressing the cable release too.

The advantage of the Alpa is that you can use it without the cable adapter and hence handheld shooting is possible.

Is the Alpa cable trigger worth nearly $1000? Not really but then again neither are 2x KG triggers after you've had one completely fail or fall to pieces. I do use mine most of the time but if I'm changing lenses a few times then I just go with zero latency and use a regular cable & sync cable. I have ten batteries so it's hardly a problem of not having power (it's funny how many you accumulate when you've upgraded backs a few times!).

Hope that helps.

 

[GrahamWelland]

Ray,

This might help show what I was referring to:
ALPA of Switzerland - Manufacturers of remarkable cameras - ALPA Sync Release

The Alpa release body fits on the shutter and presses the shutter release. It has a cable that attaches to the shutter release, the flash sync port on the shutter and also the sync port on the digital back. This assembly will wake and trigger the P25+ to take a shot without the need for a double shutter release or a secondary release button.

With the P25+ you always need to wake up the back some how before each shot. With a Leaf back, or IQ/Credo in zero latency mode, you don't need to wake the back and so you can use a standard cable release that screws in to the shutter and a normal sync cable that goes between the flash sync port to the port on the digital back.

If I have a chance today I'll take a couple of pictures of it on my Alpa to show the two alternative approaches.

 

[stephengilbert]

And the Kapture Group cable is here: Phase One digital back adapter solutions

It screws into the shutter release, and plugs into the lens sync port and the back. A push on the cable release sends the wake-up signal to the back, and activates the shutter.

 

[jotloob]

I can't make up my flippin mind what body to use . SWA or TC . No shift required and also not needed .
For an architectural project I need to shoot some handheld images , because using a tripod would be very unhandy and would take too much time .
I will be using the HR-DIGARON-S 4,5/28mm and the HR-DIGARON-W 4/40mm . There is good daylight allowing exposure times from 1/60 , 1/125 or even 1/250 at f8 and f11 .
My SWA has the wakeup button in the left handgrip and for the TC I have the ALPA sync solution cable . So handling the wakeup for the digital back is no problem . I would be using the ALPA viewfinder with the correct mask and also the handstrap . No bellow lens shade but the ALPA PLS 70-75 .
But I have almost no experience shooting handheld , as I do most work from the tripod .
Which body is better for handheld and will I receive sharp images with the mentioned shutter times and lenses .
How do you do LCC when shooting handheld ? ? ?
What is your experience and what could you recommend ? ? ?

 

[GrahamWelland]

Do you have the right side hand grip for the TC? I find that this helps with usability when shooting without a tripod and with the Alpa cable release. I can cradle the lens/base with my left hand and hold the body with the right grip. That gives you easy access to the shutter release too.

I initially had the small right hand grip but that wasn't comfortable for me. I transitioned to the larger rosewood grip (it has the slider lock for the lens lock) and this fits my hands perfectly.

I don't own the SWA although I have handled one a few times. The dual handles certainly do make it pretty stable for handheld use. That said it was heavier.

I have my TC for handheld use with my 35 /47 lenses and P25+ / film back. The majority of the time though I use it as the permanent home for my 23HR and shooting with the IQ160 since I don't need the movements of my STC with that lens.

 

[stephengilbert]

Jurgen,

I haven't done it, but couldn't you use a square filter holder to hold a (perhaps modified) LCC card? It seems that holding the card by hand when you're hand holding the camera would be a problem.

Steve

 

[jotloob]

Graham and Steve

Yes , I have the right side rosewood grip with the safety latch and have just mounted the ALPA handstrap . That combo + the ALPA sync release feels good and save in my hands .
The SWA is very good to handle as well and is very stable as you can use two hands to hold the camera . But you need your left index finger for the wakeup button and your right index finger for the sync device and shutter release . That is not very handy when you still want to hold a LCC card .
Yes indeed that turns out be be very difficult but not so much when using the TC .
I still wonder what shutter times I can use with the HR28mm lens to be on the safe side .

 

[satybhat]

Graham and Steve

Yes , I have the right side rosewood grip with the safety latch and have just mounted the ALPA handstrap . That combo + the ALPA sync release feels good and save in my hands .
The SWA is very good to handle as well and is very stable as you can use two hands to hold the camera . But you need your left index finger for the wakeup button and your right index finger for the sync device and shutter release . That is not very handy when you still want to hold a LCC card .
Yes indeed that turns out be be very difficult but not so much when using the TC .
I still wonder what shutter times I can use with the HR28mm lens to be on the safe side .

Gently reviving this since I am going to jump into the inferno....
Why would one want an Alpa WA (not SWA) instead of an SWA or a TC?
What does the WA offer apart from looks?
Can one not attach two rosewoods to the TC to give a similar profile or balance?

Thanks !!!

 

[darr]

Gently reviving this since I am going to jump into the inferno....
Why would one want an Alpa WA (not SWA) instead of an SWA or a TC?

It is designed for wide angle lenses without shift and is heftier than a TC.

What does the WA offer apart from looks?

It is a SWA without shift, so I guess it just looks good. I was looking to purchase a used one, but could not find one for sale. I was buying it for my SK28xl making it my Hasselblad SWC with a digital back. I ended up buying a TC with a black soft handle and I like it. I use it more than my Max in the studio when I do not need movements.

Can one not attach two rosewoods to the TC to give a similar profile or balance?
Thanks !!!

Here is a picture of what a TC + two handles looks like (do not know if it comes in Rosewood):