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PocketWizard trigger cable for Mamiya / Phase One 645DF

Craig Stocks

Well-known member
Does anyone have any experience with these? I purchased the PocketWizard non-pretrigger cable (MAFM3) and have found that it screws up the focusing functions. When the cable is attached to the camera, any half-press of the shutter release button on the camera will trigger the shutter. That means that you can't use auto-focus, and you can't use focus confirmation while manually focusing.

As a result, I have to remove the cable from the camera, focus (usally manually using focus confirmation) then re-attach the cable. Obviously an awkward workflow during a shoot. Sure seems like a poor design decision to me.

PW technical support responded that I need to buy the more expensive pre-trigger cable so that I can turn the pre-trigger off. WTF!! I have to buy a more expensive cable in order to not have a feature!!!

Does anyone know of a work-around? I've tried re-assigning the focus function to the back button, but that hasn't worked.

I've noticed that ProFoto also sells a remote release cable, with the same Mamiya plug and the 3.5mm mini-plug (same as PW jack). Has anyone tried that option, and does it also screw up focusing?

Thanks.
 

malmac

Member
Craig

I use pocket wizard with a 645DF camera. This may not be what you need but it is another bit of information.

CONTROL LIGHTS

I use a PW TT5 in the camera hot shoe - if I need an on camera flash as well, I tape the top contacts on the TT5, fit a Canon 580EX2 on top of the TT5 and then use a short cable from camera PC socket plugged into the 580EX2 (PC to PC cable required) to trigger the on camera flash / the hot shoe triggers the TT5 which then controls my lights.

To use the TT5 successfully on the 645DF you need to make one channel manual control only. I have all my PWs set to manual on T1 and ETTL (for use with my Canon gear) on T2.

CONTROL CAMERA

Phase One/Mamiya sell a remote control cord for the 645DF cameras which I have but rarely use which can be plugged into the camera to activate the shutter.
The cable release works the auto focus function and mirror up as well if you need to go that way.

http://www.specular.com.au/phaseone645df/index.php[/URL]
At the bottom of this page link you will see a photo of a short and long version of the cable release for your camera.

Not sure if that information is relevant.

mal
 

Craig Stocks

Well-known member
Thanks for the input, but it's the cable to trigger the camera remotely that I'm looking for. One end plugs into the camera's remote socket and the other plugs into a PocketWizard. Then, you can use a second PW to trigger the camera from a distance. The problem is that as soon as you plug the PW cable into the camera, the camera looses all focusing functionality (auto or manual confirmation).

I thought maybe it was a defective cable, but PW technical support assured me that they intended it to work that way, though I sure can't figure out why they thought that might be a good idea.

I'm also curious, do the PW cables for Nikon and Canon cameras work the same way, or is the behavior unique to the 645DF.
 

Craig Stocks

Well-known member
I just received this from PW Technical Support:

I work at LPA Design, designers and manufacturers of the PocketWizard radios. After talking with my supervisor, this is the likely explanation of what is happening:

This cable takes a 2-stage circuit and makes it into a single stage. In other words, it takes something with 3 wires and forces it to use 2 wires as the camera demands. This cable has the "wake-up" and "trigger" wires tied together at the miniphone tip. If these two wires were not tied together then the camera would not fire from the radio. The camera insists that wake-up and trigger be contacted at the same time to trigger.

The symptom of half-pressing causing a trigger is expected with this configuration. Most users of remote cables pre-set the camera's focus, then connect the cable. This symptom affects Canon users as well.

If you require the ability to have the cable connected *and* perform half-press, then a -P cable may be the better option as it has a diode in circuit that may prevent this symptom.

Apparently, it's also due to the design of the camera.
 

malmac

Member
Craig

Now I see where you are stuck.

Have not explored this area of camera control, maybe will not bother for the near future.

Best of luck.


Mal
 
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