I shoot with a Cambo Wide DS and a Hasselblad H3D 39. The Wide DS has more rise and fall the the RS (40mm rise and 20mm fall) This comes in very useful for architectural work. ( I shoot architectural and landscape work)
I probably stitch photos in one shape or form in 80% of my photos. For me the pros of the tech camera setup far out weigh the ease of use of a 35mm camera. Initially I bought the Hasselblad/Cambo mainly because of the image quality. Now that I use the back on the Cambo the number one reason I use a tech camera is because of the vastly superior shift/rise/fall of a tech camera system over a 35mm system. For an architectural photographer it is a hugely useful tool. There are tilt shift lenses with 35mm camera systems and you can do the (cough spit) correction in photoshop but this does not give a satisfying result. For example if you were close to a sharp corner of a building and you used perspective correction in CS rather that rise on a tech camera you will be much more limited in what you can do and the result will not be nearly as pleasing.
One of the great advantages of the movement on the view camera is that once you visualize what the scene looks like and set up the camera, most of the time you just tweak the rise and shift to get that perfect angle. There is less of the moving around than you would do otherwise if you were to correct in photoshop or to use a 35mm with lesser movements (Although not all of the time. As an architectural photographer I'm sure you're aware of the give me 1ft more syndrome. Why is that fecking wall behind me!!!)
The shooting process with the view camera does take more time but you become much more involved in the scene. Especially with panoramics because you have to have a very clear idea of what the final image will look like. I don't use a ground glass. Way to time consuming and the last thing you want to be doing is messing around taking things off and putting things on the camera when shooting landscapes or externals. I expose the sensor to the elements as little as possible and as a result my sensor needs fairly occasional cleaning. I use the laptop tethered for internals if not much moving about is needed. Otherwise I use Quantum turbo 3 to give me at least a full days juice without need for a recharge. Really useful knowing you will not need to replace a battery all day in the middle of THE shot. I use the viewfinder to set up the job. It's a guestimate and than the shot is tweaked using either the screen or if tethered, with the laptop. I have never used the iphone so can't say anything for or against. Although realistically if your out and about using an iphone app during much of your shoot how useful can it be. The iphone battery isn't exactly know for it's battery life if it's getting a lot of use and the screen is active. Either it works all of the time or it doesn't work at all for me.
I shoot using only Schneiders. The 24mm, 28mm, 35mm xl and the 47mm. The quality of the glass is just ridiculous with only negligible distortion. My favorite lenses are the 35 and 28mm (The 28mm has unbelievable movements on a 49 x 37mm sensor.) You mentioned the 35mm xl and it is probably the best all round lens for architecture if you have a tightish budget. The 28mm is amazing but substantially more expensive. Also the perspective is more distorted because of the wide angle. The 35mm has a more natural perspective and works beautifully for stitching. The 24mm lens is razor sharp but you don't get much movements. It's still really useful for tight single shot compositions. The 47mm is also a beauty for the less is more panoramic internals. I am sending a bunch of shots captured with the 35mm xl as that's the lens you are looking at. A centre filter is absolutely vital if you are using shift on the lens. You can shift up to 19mm although it does start to go soft after 14 or 15 but I just apply extra sharpening if needed.
It is a bit of a pain to take a calibration shot with a semi opaque white disk/card for every new lens movement but as an architectural photographer you will know the difficulty in white balance. The beauty of taking a calibration shot is that you not only remove the colour cast but you can also use the white picker on the calibration shot and apply it to each subsequent shot. Every time I move the camera, irrespective of changing the lens movements, I take a calibration shot, remove the colour cast and correct the white balance.
There was some mention about issues with long exposures. Most of the enclosed shots are over 30 seconds exposure. Some go up to 80 seconds (somehow I can get 80 on the Cambo even though the official max with the H3D 39 is 60 seconds!!) Most of the time I shoot at iso 50. I can only speak for myself with the Hasselblad but noise is not really an issue. If you are blending exposures the underexposed shot will have noise which must be reduced.
I have printed images using the 35mm up to 2.75m wide (9ft and the sharpness is still unreal. One of the images below of the man and dog is an example. I also recently shot 360 degree panos using the Cambo/28mm/H3D39. At ht bottom you see 2 of these. They were 13m wide. The detail of the image even at that size was still really nice.
Hope that helps. As an architectural photographer I would have no hesitation in recommending the tech camera setup. I definitely didn't buy because it made financial sense. I bought it because I wanted it and I felt I needed it even though I couldn't afford it but sure feck it.