Having shot with the M8 for a couple of years, I was impressed by the files, but didn't like the difficulty in composition. As I'm most interested in directly vertical and horizontal compositions, it was difficult to get proper alignment when using the camera handheld. I really missed the Rollei WLF< and the 6x6 screen with grid.
I liked the Hy6, but can't justify the price - and the Sinar package, which is well priced, comes with microlenses, thus leaving out the chance for shifting radically. I really wanted to get back to the waist level finder, and composition on the glass.
The best little package for this is the Hassy CFV, but I wasn't eager to replace all the cool Schneider Rollei glass I have - so when the Rollei/Phase dp20 came up, I snatched it, and am now giving it a good try.
The issues Tom brings up are real to be sure. Something is a bit off here - this is not an easy switch. Not super hard either, but it requires some care. I'm not sure whether the issues are a big thing or not. Most of my shots (causal ones, around the house, in the midst of winter, grey skies, and busy time of year) are a mixed blessing at best. If its really cold outside, they all suffer from shake. Most are wide open, at f4, around 1/30 to 1/60, and ISO 100-200. Ironically, all my film shots with the Rollei 6003 were almost universally immune to shake - I could do 1/30 without a problem. Part of that is that I'd shoot film with a 60 mm lens, slightly wide and forgiving. With a 40 mm on the dp20, its about the same, and that's OK, but if one uses the 90 (135 equivalent) it is not forgiving about shake at all. No surprise - it all makes sense, but it is different.
My guess is that for a longer lens, cloudy day and handheld shooting, you have to use ISO 400. And the system would prefer a tripod.
The one amazing thing is that the Phase back, wiht the C1 software, gives images that are spot on for color rendition instantly. Almost no modification is necessary. I'm rather amazed and quite pleasantly surprised.
Maybe its like going around shooting with Kodachrome - great images, but comes with a set of consequences you have to deal with. Fast, its not tho.
Just to confirm what Tom is saying - it has strengths, and weaknesses. Best pitched to the strengths, and work around the weaknesses. The Hy6 has much better power management, and smoother all around, to be sure. So there is a part of this which is due to being behind the progress curve, but some of it (f 4 lenses, need for high shutter speeds, and low ISO preferred) exist, it seems, with any MFD back. Do others agree?
The pleasure of composing on the glass is once again remarkable. Compositions and shots emerge, patterns found, ones that are otherwise overlooked with a DSLR, held up to the eye. Not sure why, but its wonderful to have back.
I guess its a "go slow and learn" approach. No single solution to be sure.
Geoff