The GetDPI Photography Forum

Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!

Distance measurement

jlm

Workshop Member
i have both the distto 5 and the leupold and find myself preferring the leupold as to ease of use as long as the distance is greater than 15' (about 5 M) The laser dot of the disto get impossible to see outdoors in bright conditions, so i use the video screen and cross hair on the disco which works fine.
 

tashley

Subscriber Member
the blur spot diameter = circle of confusion, right?
so i set it to 40microns (39mpx hasselblad back)

lp/mm for print resolution? how does this convert into ppi?
are 10 lp/mm equal to 508ppi? if i assume, that one line is equal to one pixel...

let's say my usual print size is 17x24 at 300ppi - what would i have to dial in to get that?

i'm a littlebit confused by that.
You need to go into settings (cog symbol) and specify your print size. The 10 LPM default is probably perfectly adequate, since it is judged so for close viewing of a small print, but what specifying the print width does is ensure that the resolution doesn't drop as you print bigger. In other words, you can stay just as close to the print. But I am going to test this and see if it holds true. I will also experiment with 12 and 14LPM but you will notice that as you specify tighter resolutions, the DOF drops to almost nothing.

COC wise I have been setting 41 microns for the IQ180.

I think the answer is that, at root, DOF is about 'acceptable' focus and the word 'acceptable' means 'personal'. To that extent, this app seems to let you decide what that personal degree of acceptability is, with some default good guidelines. Thereafter it's going to be a tweak-athon!

But the way I am looking at it is that 1 line pair = 2 pixels width. If I don't want to see individual pixels then I need to print at about 200 DPI or higher (I often make very large prints at 180 DPI so that's about right). That means that 1 line pair per mm = 2 pixels per mm = 51 pixels per inch. So 10 line pairs per mm, which is the default, = 510 DPI which is as you calculated... so I reckon that if you set 4 lppmm you will get about a 204dpi print, which is about the same as a 50% view on a 100 dpi monitor and about the lowest I will drop to in print. I will compromise on 5 lppm for now, close to 260 dpi and that should be enough for big prints even reasonably close up.

To put it another way: the largest print I have made so far is 1.25 metres high. It looks really good even very close up. So let's say that's 50" wide.

IQ180 resolution is 10328 pixels on the long side and that is a print resolution therefore of 206 dpi - the same as 4 lppmm if my math is right. So setting 5 should be absolutely fine, when using the largest print size.

That means that with the Rodie 40 on the IQ 180 (and assuming a print size of 1 metre, which is the maximum allowed on the slider but remember I have chosen to use 5 lppmm rather than 4 so that should allow roughly 125% bigger print which takes me to my desired size) shot at:

F5.6 the hyperfocal distance is a touch under 15 metres and that gives good focus from about 7.7 metres outwards.
F8 it is about 11.5 metres and that gives good focus from about 5.8 metres outwards.
F11, which is the absolute smallest aperture I would use (the calculator shows that at F16 diffraction ruins everything!) the hyperfocal is 10 meters and the near distance is 5 meters. I am going to write those values down and put them on a card!

There! I don't need a Disto any more. But I'm going to get one ;-)

Anyone who now wants to show me the errors in my calculation is extremely welcome!
 

tashley

Subscriber Member
i have both the distto 5 and the leupold and find myself preferring the leupold as to ease of use as long as the distance is greater than 15' (about 5 M) The laser dot of the disto get impossible to see outdoors in bright conditions, so i use the video screen and cross hair on the disco which works fine.
That sounds like a plan but, seeing my post above, I think that the Disto is right for me because hyperfocal calculations let me get everything in the longer range, at least with the Rodie 40, where I want them. Theoretically of course - we'll see how that works in the real world! So I am going for the Disto - which also looks like it will have uses for calculating tilt when I get my head around it! But it does imply that if your finder has a minimum distance of 10 metres then it only operates in the range where hyperfocal will carry the day.
 

gazwas

Active member
That sounds like a plan but, seeing my post above, I think that the Disto is right for me because hyperfocal calculations let me get everything in the longer range, at least with the Rodie 40, where I want them. Theoretically of course - we'll see how that works in the real world! So I am going for the Disto - which also looks like it will have uses for calculating tilt when I get my head around it! But it does imply that if your finder has a minimum distance of 10 metres then it only operates in the range where hyperfocal will carry the day.
I thought you were going cheap and simple with baby steps at first Tim?

You've not even been out on a real shoot yet with the new camera and you're already purchasing more stuff that you don't know you'll need and will probably sit unused in your camera bag?

Just saying...........;)
 

tashley

Subscriber Member
I thought you were going cheap and simple with baby steps at first Tim?

You've not even been out on a real shoot yet with the new camera and you're already purchasing more stuff that you don't know you'll need and will probably sit unused in your camera bag?

Just saying...........;)

In for a penny in for a pound old chum :D

After a weekend shooting it seems that this system works for me in a way that the Cambo/35XL just didn't. It gives great images and with some niggles to be worked out, finally gives me the premium over a D800 that it should - especially when used with movements, at which point the D800 with 24mm PCE is left eating very dry dust...

I have spent the morning working out DOF tables and tilt tables too. Using the arcsine method, rather marvellously, a tilt of exactly two turns of the knob on the Alpa adaptor, shot at my tripod's full height and with the lens focussed at infinity, gives me a perfectly sharp floor plane - which is a great starting point.

I now need something interesting to shoot ;)
 

Landscapelover

Senior Subscriber Member
I'm glad to see you are happy with the IQ180, my friend. It's been a while :)
I can't wait to see pictures from someone who is talent a you and to learn your experience with the tech cam.
Pramote
 

tashley

Subscriber Member
I'm glad to see you are happy with the IQ180, my friend. It's been a while :)
I can't wait to see pictures from someone who is talent a you and to learn your experience with the tech cam.
Pramote
Pramote, you are one of the very, very best photographers I know of - your way with composition and light and your ability to combine it with great technique, are something I can only aspire to. I can't see you learning from me, other than from my mistakes!
 

Landscapelover

Senior Subscriber Member
Pramote, you are one of the very, very best photographers I know of - your way with composition and light and your ability to combine it with great technique, are something I can only aspire to. I can't see you learning from me, other than from my mistakes!
The tear in my eyes hearing these words from someone like you!
I am serious. I know lots of people at GetDPI feel the same way as I am.
Coincidentally, I've just had the Alpa SWA for few weeks and been so excited about it. The craftsmanship is just incredible.
Please post your experience with the STC and Rodie 40mm HRW (which I also have) so we can learn from you. Believe me the Disto D5 is fantastic you will love it. I carry it with me lots of time w/o a camera to train my eyes for the distance. It's a lot of fun to have :)
I am very happy you happy :)
Pramote
 

tashley

Subscriber Member
Well, talking of learning from mistakes, one lesson from this weekend is don't let the top of your LCC card catch the sunlight from behind!
 

torger

Active member
Tim

Can you please describe this a bit in more detail ?
I guess he means that the LCC card propagates light from the sides so if you have strong light at it you might get uneven illumination. Similar problem you can have with square filters, you want them to be in shadow. If the light is coming from the front it is more likely that the card is evenly illuminated, while if it is coming from the back it is likely that the bottom part is in shadow and the top is brightly illuminated which might cause some uneven LCC.

Rather than an LCC card I'd like to have an LCC lens cap (ideally with painted sides to avoid light coming in from the sides), which I could have one for each lens instead of the standard lens cap. Would be much more practical, but noone seems to have thought about that. Rodenstock / Schneider could provide it as an accessory.
 

tashley

Subscriber Member
I guess he means that the LCC card propagates light from the sides so if you have strong light at it you might get uneven illumination. Similar problem you can have with square filters, you want them to be in shadow. If the light is coming from the front it is more likely that the card is evenly illuminated, while if it is coming from the back it is likely that the bottom part is in shadow and the top is brightly illuminated which might cause some uneven LCC.

Rather than an LCC card I'd like to have an LCC lens cap (ideally with painted sides to avoid light coming in from the sides), which I could have one for each lens instead of the standard lens cap. Would be much more practical, but noone seems to have thought about that. Rodenstock / Schneider could provide it as an accessory.

Exactly right - you can get a bright patch at the top which throws the whole exercise off. And I agree about the LCC sheet: if they were push-on in the correct diameter with a felt-lined inner ring like a CV lens cap and they also made one with 4 stops ND so you could use it for quick LV focus in sunlight, I'd be happy as the proverbial pig!
 

jotloob

Subscriber Member
Thank you .
I have made a circumferential edge protection using black PVC insulation tape for the LCC card and experienced no trouble so far .
 

torger

Active member
Sinar makes/made (?) something like this. Unfortunately, it's not compatible with Lee filter holders but it's done in a similar way:

http://www.capturescanprint.com/_pics/white_shading_diff.jpg

Chris
Thanks for the tips. But to be really smooth to use it would double as a lens cap and you would have one for each lens. Just like I have a cable release permanently attached to each lens to speed up workflow.

Another alternative is to add step rings to all lenses so all get the same diameter so one could have a single lens cap that fits them all.

Out in the field one wants to have small practical things that don't get the hands to busy screwing on/off things looking through pockets in the bag etc.
 

thomas

New member
Thanks for the tips. But to be really smooth to use it would double as a lens cap and you would have one for each lens. Just like I have a cable release permanently attached to each lens to speed up workflow.

Another alternative is to add step rings to all lenses so all get the same diameter so one could have a single lens cap that fits them all.

Out in the field one wants to have small practical things that don't get the hands to busy screwing on/off things looking through pockets in the bag etc.
as to the Sinar white shading diffusor there are adapter rings for all LF lenses and of course also lens caps that fit on the adapter rings... so you don't have to buy a white diffusor for each lens: Sinar Photography » Accessories Lenses

I do use this system together with the arTech lens shade and like it very much...
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
Torger,

This may be a very silly suggestion, but would an ExpoDisc work?
Unfortunately not. It has a vignette all of it's own.

Ditto the LEE circular white lens cap doesn't work (I leave my LEE rings on each lens and use these as the lens caps). It has a circular ring in the centre that makes it unusable for LCC.

Both work well for white balance though :)
 
Top