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Strobe for H1 & P30

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apneaimages

Guest
Hi

I need some advice. I own a Hasselblad H1 and a P30 digi back and for some works I need a on camera Light. In the beguining i was thinking to buy a other camera for this kind of works but maybe the H1 would do just fine with additional light.

What i shoot most is personal portraits in meetings, events, weddings etc..

So any tips about Strobe Brakets, difusor etc is welcome. In the same time, becauce i am not sure and i just come from Nikon system, i like to ask how ttl works on H1

Thanks again and Marry Xmas
 
A

apneaimages

Guest
to be more clear what i am searching...
Last Night i sould shoot A Freemansons Event. Becauce the low light and no strobe for My Hasse i have borrow a friends 5D. There was the first time i have use a canon and my buddy told me 800 iso i available light would be just Great.

Anyway i am not att all happy with the quality of photos, maybe i am spoiled with my P30.

Ideal would me a Strobe as a Metz for My hasse. To get a second camera just for events as many tell me i think is Stupid becauce i need to invest all that money for a new housing & lenses. Wasy better to invest to my Hasse kit and buy a WA lens and a Strobe.

I have found a Metz 76MZ-5 used for ca 450 USD. But still i am not sure...
 

mark1958

Member
I have two quantum t5Ds and many accessories including snoot, umbrella, diffusers etc for the quantums if you are interested send me an email.
 
A

apneaimages

Guest
Thanks Mark. I have send you a email.

As i have read now in different forums those strobes work not that great in ttl.
I have only read that Metz 54-MZ3 /4 works great with TTL with my hasselblad H1.

Mecablitz 76 MZ-5 that i like a lot as solution have some issues with H3D but what about H1?

Quantum t5D would totaly work to for me, if ttl & H1 works oki.

90% of the time i need those strobes i shoot vertical / portrait. So a bracket that will help me align the strobe with the lens and a minisoftbox would be great.

maybe its sound crazy but offen i have think to skip the on camera Strobe and go with a Ringlight and my acute R600 but I lose the ttl advance and its cost more.

As you see guys.. i am totaly lost in Space :)
 

fotografz

Well-known member
I use a Hasselblad H camera for the type of work you describe.

I use two different flash units depending on subject matter and how much additional light I need ... a Metz 54 MZ-3 with the Metz H module for walk around fill-flash while doing candid work ... and a Metz 75 potato masher for more power when doing group shots or wedding formals.

These both work perfectly in TTL with all flash functions controlled by the camera ... including in-viewfinder data.

It is better/more accurate than the flash systems from Canon, and the equal or better than my Nikon system.
 
A

apneaimages

Guest
Finaly I have order a Metz 54 MZ-4i with a Hasselblad adapter for 220 USD :)
Now i need only a bracket. Something that works for a H1. I use it 90% in portrait mode and i like to use a lite softbox for portraits. Any recomendations?
 
A

apneaimages

Guest
I got finaly my Metz 54 MZ-4i with a hasselblad SCA 3902 but i have some issues.
I just like to have the Metz for walk around as a fill-flash or indors as a main light.
I have discover that in TTL mode the shutter is way to long open and i get good exposes but blurry images.

There is 100% something i do wrong with the settings.
Any tips & tricks are welcome for using the Metz with my H1.
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
I got finaly my Metz 54 MZ-4i with a hasselblad SCA 3902 but i have some issues.
I just like to have the Metz for walk around as a fill-flash or indors as a main light.
I have discover that in TTL mode the shutter is way to long open and i get good exposes but blurry images.

There is 100% something i do wrong with the settings.
Any tips & tricks are welcome for using the Metz with my H1.
TTL means that the flash will do it's best to fill in the right amount of light for whatever the camera is set at. One easy set-it-and-forget it method would be the following three step process:
1) determine the maximum ISO you're willing to shoot at (200?)
2) determine the minimum aperture you can shoot with enough DOF to get the shots you're going for (single faces? group shots? two row group shots? fore-ground/back-ground interaction?)
3) determine the widest lens which will give you a look you're happy with
4) determine the longest shutter speed you can reliably handhold without MAJOR camera shake. This is not at all the same as determining the shutter speed which is 100% sharp; the flash will freeze your action, you want to allow as much ambient light as possible without allowing things like point source lights or OOF background subjects to appear jittery or streaky

Say that results in a 50mm lens at f/5.6 and 1/20th ISO 200 then you're ready to slap on your TTL flash, point it at something and push the button. The flash will calculate how much additional light is needed to properly expose the scene. The only situation in which this won't work is where the ambient light is close to or stronger than f/5.6-1/20th-ISO200 (I like the ambient to be at least one stop under). If that is the case you would vary your ISO and shutter speed to drop the ambient light.

Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
__________________
Head of Technical Services, Capture Integration
Phase One, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
National: 877.217.9870 | Cell: 740.707.2183
Newsletter: Read Latest or Sign Up
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
to be more clear what i am searching...
Last Night i sould shoot A Freemansons Event. Becauce the low light and no strobe for My Hasse i have borrow a friends 5D. There was the first time i have use a canon and my buddy told me 800 iso i available light would be just Great.

Anyway i am not att all happy with the quality of photos, maybe i am spoiled with my P30.
A P30 will spoil you REAL quick. Other peoples "just Great" quickly becomes your "what the heck?"

Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
__________________
Head of Technical Services, Capture Integration
Phase One, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
National: 877.217.9870 | Cell: 740.707.2183
Newsletter: Read Latest or Sign Up
 
A

apneaimages

Guest
A P30 will spoil you REAL quick. Other peoples "just Great" quickly becomes your "what the heck?" QUOTE]
ha ha you are so 100% right. Other peoples wow factor is for me. Hmmm its just oki.

I have try to use TTL in P, A, S mode but as i read hier is just way easy in Manual mode.

My longest shutter speed is always the mm off a lens. this works great for me to not take shakking photos.
Before (NIKON) i offen have use ISO 800 1/60th second at f/4 and TTL But now with the P30 i dont dare to go to ISO 400 att all.
 
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