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Fun with MF images - ARCHIVED - FOR VIEWING ONLY

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etrump

Well-known member
18 months? I can't remember more than a month or two. I have to go to my blog to see where I have been the last couple of years. :ROTFL:

Here is one from my recent trip to Colorado that was processed last night.

I am posting this uncropped to show the image circle and stitch offset. It is a full right and left (20mm) two image shift on the cambo WRS/P65 with the APO-Digitar 72mm. I am still struggling with this lens but this capture is excellent. Makes my problems with the lens even more perplexing.

Paradise Dawning shot from Paradise Divide near Crested Butte. I believe the mountain across the canyon is Purple Mountain.

 

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
Ed, fist off, nice composition.

I realize it's a work in progress, but may I ask what you're using to stitch? To my eyes, this stitch isn't very good, showing pretty obvious and straight vertical "blend" lines at the seams...

One other nit, the shadow slider was maybe too high, and then not enough contrast back into the foreground greens.
 

etrump

Well-known member
Ed, fist off, nice composition.

I realize it's a work in progress, but may I ask what you're using to stitch? To my eyes, this stitch isn't very good, showing pretty obvious and straight vertical "blend" lines at the seams...

One other nit, the shadow slider was maybe too high, and then not enough contrast back into the foreground greens.
Good points Jack and thanks for commenting. I haven't really done any processing on this image. Perhaps my idea of posting a non-processed image was not the best but I wanted to show the image circle on the 72mm.

This was stitched in CS5 with reposition, the actual blend lines are anything but straight but I'll check it out. I did notice a could spots in the clouds ould be exaggerated because I down sampled from 13000+ pixels wide to 1600 in one step to post here.

I would agree with your assessment on the contrast my monitor is calibrated to the lightjet printer I use. I normally add contrast for web but didn't do anything to this print since it was pre-everything. Normally I found it better to process with less contrast until I get most of the corrections finished and produce a test print. I can drop the darks without adding noise but if I start too dark and try to bring up the shadows noise becomes an issue. So on my screen the greens are dark and rich. ;)
 

etrump

Well-known member
Wondering the same ED . Looks really good here . I would expect some cutoff anyway
Please take this with a grain of salt because I am working through the issue still but I have times when my 72mm looks terrible. A few days after this image was taken which looks really sharp (to me) I had some really great images that were too soft to use. The focusing in this shot was much more critical so I'm not sure what the problem is. Here is a higher res version of this image.

Paradise Dawning

This image (which is also a two shot stitch) is so soft it is not usable.


I have four Schneider lenses from 24-150 and this is the only lens that I have issues with.
 

thomas

New member
This image (which is also a two shot stitch) is so soft it is not usable.
(...)
I have four Schneider lenses from 24-150 and this is the only lens that I have issues with.
Was that shot focussed at infinity? Maybe your 72mm is not accurately adjusted for infinity? If at infinity setting the lens actually focusses beyond infinity everything will go soft.
 

etrump

Well-known member
Was that shot focussed at infinity? Maybe your 72mm is not accurately adjusted for infinity? If at infinity setting the lens actually focusses beyond infinity everything will go soft.
We are thinking it is that or the sensor is slightly off. I had shootable light for 3-4 hours that morning so I'm not sure exactly what the shooting parameters were. I'll let you know what I find.
 

thomas

New member
We are thinking it is that or the sensor is slightly off.
If you use the DB only on your WRS I wouldn't worry about the sensor. I'd simply adjust the lens as it is really easy to do.
(unless the sensor shows tilt and/or swing and/or rotation... in this case it's another story but, of course, you would see it with all your lenses).

My lenses focussed beyond infinity ex factory ... I also use the WRS, however I use Contax mount.

I'll let you know what I find.
that would be nice - many thanks!
 

Don Libby

Well-known member
We are thinking it is that or the sensor is slightly off. I had shootable light for 3-4 hours that morning so I'm not sure exactly what the shooting parameters were. I'll let you know what I find.
Ed - odd that you're having the trouble with the 72mm as I either use that or my 120mm the most (like you all my lenses are Schneider). Did the lens get banged up any? I also wouldn't think it be a sensor fault especially if your other lenses are okay. How does the focal ring feel as you turn it? Is it still tight? Hell - this seems to be a great time for Doug to chime in...

Don
 

etrump

Well-known member
Ed - odd that you're having the trouble with the 72mm as I either use that or my 120mm the most (like you all my lenses are Schneider). Did the lens get banged up any? I also wouldn't think it be a sensor fault especially if your other lenses are okay. How does the focal ring feel as you turn it? Is it still tight? Hell - this seems to be a great time for Doug to chime in...

Don
Everything feels fine but you know I was carrying it when the cliff dropped out from under me. 25-30' fall but it was in the camera bag and we sent it back to cambo for a checkup.

I am home for the next month so I will have time to do a little more testing. Like you, this is my bread and butter lens.
 

thomas

New member
I'd simply adjust the lens as it is really easy to do.
To elaborate further…

The focus ring consists of two rings (please see attachment): the ribbed ring that actually drives the helical focus and a second ring that shows the distance indication. Ring #2 locks ring #1 at infinity.
Just loosen the 3 screws on ring #2 and you can focus beyond the infinity lock.

procedure:
- tether
- center the lens (resp. the back)
- point the camera to a subject at infinity. For the 72mm lens a subject at 70 meters (for every lens the focal length in meters is a good reference, so 28 meters for 28mm lens, 50 meters for the 47XL and so on); it's very helpful if the motif also contains clear distinguishable elements nearer and farer than your 70 meters spot (for instance a row of houses shot from an appropriate angle is perfect) so that you can clearly see where the actual focus spot is
- shoot wide open, set C1 to sharpening preset "version 3 soft look" (or something smooth) and vary the focus distance until infinity is sharp (i.e. tack sharp from 70meters and further)
- when you've adjusted the accurate focus setting carefully turn ring #2 back so that it locks at infinity
- tighten the 3 screws
… done. Takes you half an hour or so when you do it for the first time and maybe 15 minutes for the next lenses.
This is the first thing I do with every new lens… even very little adjustments may improve sharpness at infintiy significantly. It's bascially the same as Alpa's back shimming… just on the other side of the system (and, of course, you have to do it for every lens whilst Alpa's back shimming ideally ensures accurate infinity adjustment for all Alpa lenses).
 
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ceh

Active member
Hello,
this is my first post/image on the forum. The image is from the Minor Fatra mountain ridge towards the West Tatras.
M-AFDIII.,Leaf Aptus 65s,80/2,8D
 
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Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
Hello,
this is my first post/image on the forum. The image is from the Minor Fatra mountain ridge towards the West Tatras.
M-AFDIII.,Leaf Aptus 65s,80/2,8D
Hello Ceh, and welcome to GetDPI! My compliments on an excellent first post too!
 

ceh

Active member
Jack,
Thanks for the compliment. I've added another photo..
M-AFDIII.,Leaf Aptus 65s,150/3,5.
 
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