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Fun with MF images - ARCHIVED - FOR VIEWING ONLY

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Professional

Active member
Re: Fun with MF images - Part 3

"Very amateurish"... in the best possible way... as you have obviously won the confidence of the young lady...

I am working on winning the confidence of a few (hundred) of my wife's ballet, tap and gym students (no permission to post yet)
I have secret ways to shoot children or kids or young student, but it is working for me and not working for others :D

Good luck :thumbup:
 

mediumcool

Active member
My first pic from my latest arrival, the 50mm Mamiya shift lens.



Hand-held last evening at 1/45 f8 (widest safe working aperture I hear) Mamiya 645AFD/Aptus 22 ISO 100. About 10mm rising front.
Still had to do a bit of perspective work in PS after converting in C1. And there’s some distortion still to remove.



!00% screenshot from PS of lower right.

Happy so far.
 

mediumcool

Active member
The 35mm lens arrived at the same time. Last night 1/180 f3.5 in the back yard (same info as house and dog shot). Processed in C1 with underexposure and vignetting.



Bokeh’s a bit wiry, but.
 

PeterA

Well-known member
Hi David - Wind can be interesting fortunately we get a lot of it down here..this is a small crop of a panorama - maybe I shoudl find an old fred miranda frame making macro for posting stuff on web - then again...maybe not :ROTFL:

I am looking forward to finalising the new toy -:)

Pete
 

Woody Campbell

Workshop Member
Blog post for January 12, 2011. Two views of the El Dorado (300 Central Park West) across the Central Park Reservoir. H4D-60 + HC 300 (two frames stitched) and + HCD 28.




 

Woody Campbell

Workshop Member
That looks very nice. What software did you convert it in? No other adjustments done, just the straight conversion?
Grayscale work flow:

Export as color tiffs from Phocus using Phocus to produce good full scale histograms and appropriate sharpening and noise reduction (no noise reduction needed here); images imported to LR and stitched in PS; perspective correction in LR (very slight in this image); minor spotting in sky areas in LR; convert to grayscale in LR; in LR: add "shoulder" and "toe" to tone curve, use B&W mix sliders to simulate a yellow or "minus violet" filter (darken blues and lighten oranges and yellows), add post crop vignetting to simulate edge burning in a wet darkroom; restrained use of the adjustment brush in LR (simulating dodging and burning); apply split toning preset in LR; final touch up of exposure in the tone field in LR. Keys are to start with a good exposure, get it right in Phocus, avoid overuse of any of these manipulations, use the fill light and clarity sliders sparingly if at all and don't over sharpen. The whole process in LR takes a couple of minutes max.
 

Valentin

New member
Grayscale work flow:

Export as color tiffs from Phocus using Phocus to produce good full scale histograms and appropriate sharpening and noise reduction (no noise reduction needed here); images imported to LR and stitched in PS; perspective correction in LR (very slight in this image); minor spotting in sky areas in LR; convert to grayscale in LR; in LR: add "shoulder" and "toe" to tone curve, use B&W mix sliders to simulate a yellow or "minus violet" filter (darken blues and lighten oranges and yellows), add post crop vignetting to simulate edge burning in a wet darkroom; restrained use of the adjustment brush in LR (simulating dodging and burning); apply split toning preset in LR; final touch up of exposure in the tone field in LR. Keys are to start with a good exposure, get it right in Phocus, avoid overuse of any of these manipulations, use the fill light and clarity sliders sparingly if at all and don't over sharpen. The whole process in LR takes a couple of minutes max.

Thanks. It came out really nice.
 
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