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Fun with MF images - ARCHIVED - FOR VIEWING ONLY

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Shelby Lewis

Guest
(I pulled the earlier one as I realized it had a funky profile attached... will re-upload later)

a bit of vintage-ness added in post:

 
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dick

New member
Focus stacked and monochrome. It was important in this case to get both the old Cornish church and the ancient gate sharp. The colour version looks OK, but I prefer the mono conversion. H4D-50, 28mm HCD lens.



Quentin
A classic example of where T/S would not give you all the DOF you need!
 

jlm

Workshop Member
the only problems i have encountered with Helicon is with moving leaves, for example, leading to double imaging. If your subject will allow, it works great.
 

Quentin_Bargate

Well-known member
A classic example of where T/S would not give you all the DOF you need!
Dick,

Exactly so! On the other hand, tilt/shift would be better where part of the image is moving, e.g incoming tide. But even there, workarounds exist. Overall, I am convinced that focus stacking is, in most cases, the more versatile and better solution.

Quentin
 

Quentin_Bargate

Well-known member
I'm in Death Valley on a workshop but I ran out this morning and shot a few shots in the dunes. Problem is major wind , major dust and major dust in the air. Will go back later in week and get more. I mean very high winds. Gave my new 110 LS some work to do
Lovely tones, Guy. I bet those shots look great as big prints. :thumbup:

Quentin
 

dick

New member
Dick,

Exactly so! On the other hand, tilt/shift would be better where part of the image is moving, e.g incoming tide. But even there, workarounds exist. Overall, I am convinced that focus stacking is, in most cases, the more versatile and better solution.

Quentin
.... and when I tell Hasselblad that they need to provide automated Focus stacking they seem to be unable to understand why anyone would want it!

Stackshot works for macro on a DSLR, but I am thinking that I could use one on the back of a view camera for landscape!
 

Schmiddi

Member
Oksana, shot "over" St. Anton (luckily one fine day, the rest of the week I was there it was raining and snowing...):



Leaf AFI-II 7, Elinchrom Ranger
 

2jbourret

New member
Very nice, Woody. I really like the detail, and the light in the high branches. If it were my shot, I think I'd go for a square or horizontal crop that left out much of the trunks, but that's just m.h.o.
 

dick

New member
Color


Mono


H4D-60, 28mm
Tareq..

The colour picture looks better on my laptop... the colours look very OTT and HDR on my Eizo - perhaps the colours were like that?

I do not like it, but nobody else has commented...

This looks as if you used single off camera flash, HDR, DOF merge, sunlight and tungsten? ¿Perhaps the net curtains on the window warmed the colours on the right hand side of the picture? Presumably DOF was not a problem with the WA?

The H4D-60 is a great camera, and the raw files will stand a great deal of manipulation without falling apart.. did you downsize with Jack's action?

Did you try a faster shutter speed to prevent the sun-lit highlight burning out?

I would have thought that HDR would have filled the shadows better, and have enabled you to do without the flash?

There seems to be a lot of fish-eye distortion.

Reflectors (e.g. a projection screen) can work wonders in a picture like this, even if you have a big studio flash system available. You can use a reflector, screen or curtain to tone down highlights.
 

fotografz

Well-known member
Oksana, shot "over" St. Anton (luckily one fine day, the rest of the week I was there it was raining and snowing...):



Leaf AFI-II 7, Elinchrom Ranger
Seems a bit odd that the cast shadow of the figure goes one way, and the shadows from the coat and her face go another ... perhaps in this case just straight-on fill located closer to the camera may have worked better because the key light from the sun left-to-right was so strong? I think I would have feathered the strobe fall-off slightly upwards to keep a bit more detail in the foreground snow.

-Marc
 

fotografz

Well-known member
Tareq..

The colour picture looks better on my laptop... the colours look very OTT and HDR on my Eizo - perhaps the colours were like that?

I do not like it, but nobody else has commented...

This looks as if you used single off camera flash, HDR, DOF merge, sunlight and tungsten? ¿Perhaps the net curtains on the window warmed the colours on the right hand side of the picture? Presumably DOF was not a problem with the WA?

The H4D-60 is a great camera, and the raw files will stand a great deal of manipulation without falling apart.. did you downsize with Jack's action?

Did you try a faster shutter speed to prevent the sun-lit highlight burning out?

I would have thought that HDR would have filled the shadows better, and have enabled you to do without the flash?

There seems to be a lot of fish-eye distortion.

Reflectors (e.g. a projection screen) can work wonders in a picture like this, even if you have a big studio flash system available. You can use a reflector, screen or curtain to tone down highlights.
Tareg needs a bubble level and leveling plate maybe? ... ;) Gotta really watch it with the 28 ... it's pretty close to a 22 or 23mm FOV 35mm equivalent on the 60 I believe. Phocus DAC should have corrected any barrel distortion I would've thought.

As to the technique itself, different strokes for different folks.

-Marc
 

Professional

Active member
Tareq..

The colour picture looks better on my laptop... the colours look very OTT and HDR on my Eizo - perhaps the colours were like that?

I do not like it, but nobody else has commented...

This looks as if you used single off camera flash, HDR, DOF merge, sunlight and tungsten? ¿Perhaps the net curtains on the window warmed the colours on the right hand side of the picture? Presumably DOF was not a problem with the WA?

The H4D-60 is a great camera, and the raw files will stand a great deal of manipulation without falling apart.. did you downsize with Jack's action?

Did you try a faster shutter speed to prevent the sun-lit highlight burning out?

I would have thought that HDR would have filled the shadows better, and have enabled you to do without the flash?

There seems to be a lot of fish-eye distortion.

Reflectors (e.g. a projection screen) can work wonders in a picture like this, even if you have a big studio flash system available. You can use a reflector, screen or curtain to tone down highlights.
Thank you eery much that you finally commented on my post.

Well, the problem on these indoor shot is as you said with mixing lights sources, windows sun light, tungsten, and maybe reflection of both from the floor, but i didn't use any of flash there, and you are right, it was a slow shutter speed but not for all shots because i did shoot 5 shots for HDR, one of exposure was at higher SS [maybe 1/60 or closer].

I chose those shots under Tungsten WB, i did another bracketed shots with "daylight" WB, it looks better for me than this one, but i didn't give it a try.

No, i didn't use Jack's action for downsizing, i even don't know there is one by him, i just downsized by Photoshop, but i exported from Phocus as a small TIFF [TIFF 4x5] then i resized down again by Photoshop.

The shot looks the same on my Apple Cine.Disp 30" and both MacBookPro, i didn't try to check my Eizo but all my monitors are calibrated, so i think on your calibrated monitor is the right one, but if both of your computers are calibrated but different result then check again.

So in this case of shooting indoor with mixed lights, what is the best way to have better WB or result for colors and so? in fact i loved that i saw different color cats here more than the other shots i've taken with another WB and only warm yellowish color, but maybe others will prefer the other shots over this one here, i will post another shot later, but do you want me to post with HDR or without HDR?

About that fish-eye effect, well, i have a bubble level as Marc said, but this didn't help much, because if i correct one side, the another side distort, you know people on this kind of places you need some tilt/shift option, or correct by software, and in all cases, i really love to see some distortion there, i will see the another shots as i think few have better free-distorted effect.
 

Professional

Active member
Tareg needs a bubble level and leveling plate maybe? ... ;) Gotta really watch it with the 28 ... it's pretty close to a 22 or 23mm FOV 35mm equivalent on the 60 I believe. Phocus DAC should have corrected any barrel distortion I would've thought.

As to the technique itself, different strokes for different folks.

-Marc
My name is Tareq [Q] not Tareg [G] :D:mad:

I am not sure that i used that DAC option, but i will give it a look again and see, or i use another shots with better distortion and enable that Phocus DAC to have way better free-like distortion, but i am not rich enough as some here to have tech camera or even that HTS1.5 adapter, sometimes the lens alone can't solve the distortion, and if i try to have free-distortion i may end up with not lovely or wanted compositions, think about it.
 

2jbourret

New member
My name is Tareq [Q] not Tareg [G] :D:mad:

I am not sure that i used that DAC option, but i will give it a look again and see, or i use another shots with better distortion and enable that Phocus DAC to have way better free-like distortion, but i am not rich enough as some here to have tech camera or even that HTS1.5 adapter, sometimes the lens alone can't solve the distortion, and if i try to have free-distortion i may end up with not lovely or wanted compositions, think about it.
Tareq,

I'm a Phase/Mamiya user, but I'm quite sure you'll find that that Phocus will do a very similar job with barrel distortion on your Hassy 28 as Capture one does on the Phamiya 28, as long as you are very careful to level the camera in setting up the shot. I can't imagine that this is a shot that would require a lens rise to establish good vertical alignment, as its just not that tall a space.

As for the overall exposure difficulties due to the strong outdoor light, I'm just not a fan of the HDR look. Call me old school, but I'd rather see dark shadows in areas that are naturally dark, rather than having darker areas appear unnaturally 'stretched', and seeing the color shifts and haloing, etc. that go with overdone HDR work. The solution may have simply been to set up the shot at a time of day that gave you a closer balance of indoor and outdoor lighting values, and to have used a shorter shutter speed to have further balanced the light.

The other comment that I'd offer is that you really do need to work very hard at balancing the color of your lighting sources. The color casts in the floor and ceiling are not ideal, and they may also have been further saturated by the HDR work.

I agree, when I post, I do it because I am hoping to receive some response. I am new to posting here, and haven't posted many images, but when I do, I hope to receive critique, and not just pats on the back. However, when no one comments, I try not to take it personally :)

Best,
 

Professional

Active member
Tareq,

I'm a Phase/Mamiya user, but I'm quite sure you'll find that that Phocus will do a very similar job with barrel distortion on your Hassy 28 as Capture one does on the Phamiya 28, as long as you are very careful to level the camera in setting up the shot. I can't imagine that this is a shot that would require a lens rise to establish good vertical alignment, as its just not that tall a space.

As for the overall exposure difficulties due to the strong outdoor light, I'm just not a fan of the HDR look. Call me old school, but I'd rather see dark shadows in areas that are naturally dark, rather than having darker areas appear unnaturally 'stretched', and seeing the color shifts and haloing, etc. that go with overdone HDR work. The solution may have simply been to set up the shot at a time of day that gave you a closer balance of indoor and outdoor lighting values, and to have used a shorter shutter speed to have further balanced the light.

The other comment that I'd offer is that you really do need to work very hard at balancing the color of your lighting sources. The color casts in the floor and ceiling are not ideal, and they may also have been further saturated by the HDR work.

I agree, when I post, I do it because I am hoping to receive some response. I am new to posting here, and haven't posted many images, but when I do, I hope to receive critique, and not just pats on the back. However, when no one comments, I try not to take it personally :)

Best,
And you know something? I intentionally chose this shot to do HDR and posted here, it has that color shift issue as you said, so i posted to have comments and solutions rather than i post normal better balanced shot and not much comments about color/exposure,...etc.

I will post another shot of same view/scene and see if you will give me different comments/critiques.

In fact i also like to have some contrasty shots and not into HDR, i did this HDR for another forums not here, but i was lazy to post non-HDR corrected one, but honestly speaking, when i post a shot here with some or many issues i get more comments and opinions than posting normal less-issues shots and get nothing or just replies such as: Good shot, nice images, cool,....

Thanks!!!
 

Professional

Active member
OK, is this one better?



Same shot but no HDR and i chose only one shot of the bracketed and worked on it, changed the WB to daylight and color temp as well [i changed the tint to 0 as well], and Phocus DAC is on, little adjustments on Phocus and then Photoshop.
 
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