OK, here are a few test shots. Not a very appealing subject and rather poorly lit with consequent underexposure of the books, but I didn't have much time and was testing for sharpness only. I hope they will help. Shot with the P65+ and 55 mm LS lens mounted on a Gitzo with the Cube and an electronic cable release with MLU.
All shots were processed with C1 defaults only, except I used the automatic Lens Correction tool for the Schneider 55 LS lens. Also the corner shots were lightened a bit in PS.
The first one is the full frame at f2.8. Focus was on the "Image Clarity" book in the center. (good choice, don't you think?) The next is that book at 100%.
The next three are of the extreme left side at 2.8, 4 and 5.6.
The next three are the bottom right corner, again at 2.8, 4 and 5.6.
You will note that there is a fair amount of light fall-off in the f2.8 shot - easily corrected of course.
This final shot is the same bottom right corner at f2.8 BUT with C1's corner sharpness applied at +100%. It lacks smoothness on the screen, but in print it looks perfectly natural.
My verdict is that this lens is very sharp at full aperture except for the extreme corners which also have modest vignetting of about one stop or less. They clean up nicely by f5.6. I haven't posted any f8 shots (ran out of gallery space!) but they show a further small improvement in contrast.
A keeper for sure.
All the talk about the Phase One bodies and new camera bracket made me go back to a couple images that I took long time ago using the Phase One AFD III and first the P30+ followed by the P45+ just prior to selling the gear and moving 100% to the Cambo WRS.
OR beach, P45+ and Phase One P45+ and Mamiya 28mm (January 28, 2009)
South Rim - P30+ and Mamiya AFDII and Mamiya 28mm (December 9, 2007)
South Rim - P45+ and Cambo WRS and 72mm (December 15, 2009)
Love that beach shot a LOT!
Thanks Jack. I took that shot on a side trip to OR while I was shooting the Redwoods with my then new WRS; returned home and started selling off the gear to finance more glass for the Cambo. This turned out to be one of the last images taken with that combo.
Funny thing is that there's some gear I regret selling however the Cambo WRS fits me so well that I've never regretted the sale.
18 months? I can't remember more than a month or two. I have to go to my blog to see where I have been the last couple of years.
Here is one from my recent trip to Colorado that was processed last night.
I am posting this uncropped to show the image circle and stitch offset. It is a full right and left (20mm) two image shift on the cambo WRS/P65 with the APO-Digitar 72mm. I am still struggling with this lens but this capture is excellent. Makes my problems with the lens even more perplexing.
Paradise Dawning shot from Paradise Divide near Crested Butte. I believe the mountain across the canyon is Purple Mountain.
Wondering the same ED . Looks really good here . I would expect some cutoff anyway
Ed, fist off, nice composition.
I realize it's a work in progress, but may I ask what you're using to stitch? To my eyes, this stitch isn't very good, showing pretty obvious and straight vertical "blend" lines at the seams...
One other nit, the shadow slider was maybe too high, and then not enough contrast back into the foreground greens.
This was stitched in CS5 with reposition, the actual blend lines are anything but straight but I'll check it out. I did notice a could spots in the clouds ould be exaggerated because I down sampled from 13000+ pixels wide to 1600 in one step to post here.
I would agree with your assessment on the contrast my monitor is calibrated to the lightjet printer I use. I normally add contrast for web but didn't do anything to this print since it was pre-everything. Normally I found it better to process with less contrast until I get most of the corrections finished and produce a test print. I can drop the darks without adding noise but if I start too dark and try to bring up the shadows noise becomes an issue. So on my screen the greens are dark and rich.
This image (which is also a two shot stitch) is so soft it is not usable.
I have four Schneider lenses from 24-150 and this is the only lens that I have issues with.
(unless the sensor shows tilt and/or swing and/or rotation... in this case it's another story but, of course, you would see it with all your lenses).
My lenses focussed beyond infinity ex factory ... I also use the WRS, however I use Contax mount.
Ed - odd that you're having the trouble with the 72mm as I either use that or my 120mm the most (like you all my lenses are Schneider). Did the lens get banged up any? I also wouldn't think it be a sensor fault especially if your other lenses are okay. How does the focal ring feel as you turn it? Is it still tight? Hell - this seems to be a great time for Doug to chime in...
I am home for the next month so I will have time to do a little more testing. Like you, this is my bread and butter lens.
The focus ring consists of two rings (please see attachment): the ribbed ring that actually drives the helical focus and a second ring that shows the distance indication. Ring #2 locks ring #1 at infinity.
Just loosen the 3 screws on ring #2 and you can focus beyond the infinity lock.
- center the lens (resp. the back)
- point the camera to a subject at infinity. For the 72mm lens a subject at 70 meters (for every lens the focal length in meters is a good reference, so 28 meters for 28mm lens, 50 meters for the 47XL and so on); it's very helpful if the motif also contains clear distinguishable elements nearer and farer than your 70 meters spot (for instance a row of houses shot from an appropriate angle is perfect) so that you can clearly see where the actual focus spot is
- shoot wide open, set C1 to sharpening preset "version 3 soft look" (or something smooth) and vary the focus distance until infinity is sharp (i.e. tack sharp from 70meters and further)
- when you've adjusted the accurate focus setting carefully turn ring #2 back so that it locks at infinity
- tighten the 3 screws
… done. Takes you half an hour or so when you do it for the first time and maybe 15 minutes for the next lenses.
This is the first thing I do with every new lens… even very little adjustments may improve sharpness at infintiy significantly. It's bascially the same as Alpa's back shimming… just on the other side of the system (and, of course, you have to do it for every lens whilst Alpa's back shimming ideally ensures accurate infinity adjustment for all Alpa lenses).
Last edited by thomas; 26th August 2010 at 13:51.
this is my first post/image on the forum. The image is from the Minor Fatra mountain ridge towards the West Tatras.
M-AFDIII.,Leaf Aptus 65s,80/2,8D
Last edited by ceh; 28th March 2011 at 23:01.
Excellent for me.
What is the white vertical object left of centre ?
Last edited by MartinE; 27th August 2010 at 01:24. Reason: ok
Thanks for the compliment. I've added another photo..
M-AFDIII.,Leaf Aptus 65s,150/3,5.
Last edited by ceh; 28th March 2011 at 23:01.
ceh - another welcome! Two splendid compositions, very nice.
My HC 55-110 lens arrived last week. A couple of shots
Grevillea - used the on camera flash as it was very overcast and in a dark part of the garden. H2, f12, 1/160 handheld
Grevillea by Photography by Odille, on Flickr
Lorikeet during feeding time at Currumbin Sanctuary. H2, f4.5, 1/160 handheld
Lorikeet at Currumbin Sanctuary by Photography by Odille, on Flickr
H2 | P20 | HC 50-110 | HC 150 f3.2 | HC 210 f4 ~ My Website
Look who's having fun now!!!!
Kudos, Terry, it was only a matter of time. Btw, which back?
Series on Night Scenes around Singapore...starting with this one. Hasselblad H3D-39 with HC4/28 lens.
More pics and larger ones 1920 wide on my blog:
More to come next week.
Peter, nice work on those night shots around Singapore. Visiting there is on my bucket list.
Beautifull night shot !
With the ALPA 12swa , SK47mmXL, P25+ :
In the Quartier Francais of Shanghai.
Will, both are stunning, good work!
Congratulation Will, I do like the 2nd with the whirlpool effect.
[QUOTE=Will Ophuis;241104]two new photos, first one was from last weekend and the second was from tonight both shot with H4D-40 and 35-90mm
Last edited by ceh; 28th March 2011 at 23:01.
Thanks Mike and David...in a few days time you will see a different Avatar with me behind a tech camera. So, the pairing is P40+ with Rm3d. For sure keeping the Phase body and probably a very, very small kit,
Like to welcome a reinvented member to the MF section. The queen of 4/3rds found a new home.
Since I realized that selling my MF gear would probably mean to give it away for (IMO) too low prices I ended up in keeping it (at least so far).
Since right now I dont feel the patience and creativity to shoot "real" MF subjects I decided to also use MF more often again for snapshots.
Here is one with the 80 Xenotar at f2.8, ISO 800.
And yes- I guess the milk tasted good.
I still really do like the drawing of the Hy6-lenses and also of the Sinar back. ISO 800 is fully usable IMO (not only when reduced for web)
I have to add something else since I had never used the 80 Xenotar so much before.
I believe I underrated this lens and used the 110/2.0 too often instead (which is a great lens for sure but also monster big and heavy.