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Considering Medium Format

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petermacc

Guest
Jim,

Very true. I have a little Giant XE ladder that goes up to 22 feet and can convert to a scaffolding for ease of use. Ladders are wonderful for getting that unseen visual in the photo.
 

Don Libby

Well-known member
Just to add my 2 cents … I’ve got their Ultimate Omni-Pivot package and wouldn’t think of doing a panorama or any other type of stitching with my AFD without it.

don
 
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petermacc

Guest
Guy, Do you have any suggestions for hand held shooting? Did you have any opinion on bowens lighting?
 

smhoer

New member
If you go the Phamiya route I would seriously avoid going with a refurb non plus Phase back in Mamiya mount. I purchased an H mount P45 and submitted it for a mount swap over 5 weeks ago. Phase has no Mamiya P45 backs AT ALL. Not even a loaner P45 they could swap me with. They also cannot give me any time frames when one will be available. If you are interested in a low count P45 for an H1 or H2 I would let mine go for what I paid for it.
 
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petermacc

Guest
Scott,

Thanks, I definitely don't want to with a non plus back. I like the long term exposures and it seems the P+ series is the way to go for that.
 

smhoer

New member
Yes, I went with the P45 for longer exposures vs the competition. Some of my exposures are around 15min which is still in the back's sweet spot according to the P45 long exposure test in Luminous Landscape. I borrowed one from a friend a while back and did a 5 minute quick test and there was no additional noise. Most of my Landscape sunrise/set shots average around 2 minutes.
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
Scott,

Thanks, I definitely don't want to with a non plus back. I like the long term exposures and it seems the P+ series is the way to go for that.
Correct. There is no doubt that if you're interested in long exposures (anything past a "few minutes" at room temperature) then you need to use a P+. Nothing else in MFD comes remotely close.

Quick note that if you are doing (or viewing sample files of) long exposures it's very important to process using Capture One. The P+ backs take a dark-slide exposure to measure the location, type, and intensity of noise on the sensor in order to ensure noise-free capture even during very long exposures. Only Capture One can access that dark-slide information. While I prefer Capture One over Lightroom/ACR/Irrident-Raw-Developer/Aperture(via DNG) in general for Phase One raw files, the differences for normal exposures at low ISO is not earth-shattering. However, at long exposures or high ISO the difference is night and day.

Doug Peterson, Head of Technical Services
Capture Integration, Phase One & Canon Dealer | Personal Portfolio
 

smhoer

New member
Doug, Is the dark slide exposure done simultaneously or in addition to the long exposure? If in addition to is it a quick exposure or the same length?
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
Doug, Is the dark slide exposure done simultaneously or in addition to the long exposure? If in addition to is it a quick exposure or the same length?
It is equal in length and it is taken after the normal exposure. I don't want to underplay how annoying that can be at times. If you take a 5 minute exposure you have to wait an additional 5 minutes for the dark slide exposure to be taken at the end. While you can put the lens cap on and take the camera off the tripod and start walking away you don't want to do anything that would effect the temperature of the back (such as put it in a small bag or bring it inside) during that dark slide exposure.

In the high end of photography everything is a compromise. If you want long exposures in digital you need a dark slide exposure. If you want long exposures on film you have to shoot only certain kinds of film, and account for reciprocity failure for time and color shift.

One quick note: the back does count up on the LCD during the long exposure and then counts down during the dark slide exposure so you don't have to bring a stopwatch or take out your sometimes-to-bright-for-long-night-shots iPhone.

Doug

Doug Peterson, Head of Technical Services
Capture Integration, Phase One & Canon Dealer | Personal Portfolio
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
One quick note: the back does count up on the LCD during the long exposure and then counts down during the dark slide exposure so you don't have to bring a stopwatch or take out your sometimes-to-bright-for-long-night-shots iPhone.


Can't tell you how useful this is. No counting, also what i do on the Phase body is set-up the self timer for 3 seconds than hit the mirror lock up. Press the shutter mirror goes up than hit shutter again and wait the self timer time (3 and adjustable) the exposure goes and NO need for a cable release. This will make you lazy. LOL

Actually both really nice features and the shutter dial will go up to 30 seconds .

Doug I never tried this but on bulb we would have to have the cable release correct. No T mode like a view lens
 

Jan Brittenson

Senior Subscriber Member
STAY OUT OF CAMERA SHOPS. Except for a select few that are here and we talk about, they will always try to sell you what they have or can get. LOL

There are exceptions of course . David at Dale and Sean at Camera West are dear friends and great retailers. Plus some of the Samy's and B&H where pro sales are made your dealing with what they know and that is ultimately what they sell. MF stuff is generally not stocked on shelves nor will they give you the service and support your after. I also like your thoughts on the lighting , yes do it once and get it over with and make sure it will last a long time and is good stuff.
I'd add Calumet to the list.

I've found that a store can be judged by its lighting inventory. If they sell light stands, power packs, kits, carry cases, heads, spare bulbs - and so on - and even better, also rents lighting gear and cameras, then they are likely a good place to shop. (And that goes even for me, who hardly ever uses lighting.)
 
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