Cube mishap - a problem and an opportunity?

[Ed Hurst]

Hello all,

My beloved Cube took a bit of a ding recently, resulting in one end of the clamp becoming misshapen. It can still be used as long as the plate does not need to extend fully to both ends of the clamp. Actually fine in ordinary use, but no good for attaching my pano or long lens components. So it will need to be rectified.

It strikes me that this may be an opportunity in disguise. I have the Arca Swiss clamp, which I have learned to accept but have never liked. Being a pretty recent Cube, it seems to be attached with adhesive and hence not readily replaced. However, now that I have to face up to repair or perhaps even a new clamp, maybe this is the time to think about finding a way to fit a clamp that I like better.

I am not someone with a practical turn of mind, so the solutions I have read here involving heating the adhesive up do not appeal to me (at least not if I have to do it myself). So, bearing in mind that I live in Sydney (Australia), just wondered if anyone has any suggestions for how to get the clamp removed and replaced. Any companies or local places who could undertake such work?

All suggestions welcome - as long as you don't try and talk me into doing a challenging repair/mod myself, because I just lack the skills/inclination in that department ;-)

Thanks,

Ed

 

[bensonga]

I hope you're able to get this sorted out Ed. I don't own a Cube and so I can't offer any helpful advice.

I'm just writing to say it's really good to know I'm not the only one here who lacks the skills/inclination to do a challenging repair/mod like this one myself.

Gary

 

[malmac]

Ed

An instrument repair place (you know speedos, clocks, technical measuring devices)would be able to carry out this sort of repair - I imagine there would be one not too far away from where you live in Sydney.

Mal
Toowoomba

 

[Jeffg53]

I would give Scott at Mainline a call. He is your best bet in Sydney.

 

[Don Libby]

Ed, it all depends on how old you Cube is regarding heating issue. I changed my clamp at least a year ago and had no issues whatsoever. (I didn't have heating issues until I got the D4.) My suggestion is to try it yourself; shouldn't take much more than removing the lugs from your car's wheel. If more than you've got a newer one with stronger goop on the bolt. A hairdryer won't heat it enough as you'll need a regular heat gun should you try it. Just heat the clamp to the point it's uncomfortable to touch and remove the bolt.

Best of luck

Don

 

[Ed Hurst]

Thanks everyone for your replies.

Don - I purchased it new less than a year ago, so am pretty sure it will be the latest version (with the heavy duty adhesive), but can't be sure.

Jeff - thanks for the tip - I will speak with Mainline. Presumably it's this company?: www.mainlinephoto.com.au

All the best,

Ed

 

[Ed Hurst]

On a related note, assuming I can get the clamp removed and changed, can anyone recommend the ideal part number for a RRS clamp to replace it? I particularly like the lever clamps they do (though the screw clamps would be acceptable as well). Clearly the main thing is that it is as robust as possible.

Many thanks,

Ed

 

[fotophil]

In my expereince, the later production Cubes and all of the D4 heads use a higher strength thread sealant compound than the earlier production models. The bolt used to mount the clamp on to the Cube must be heated in order to soften the higher strength sealant. As Don mentioned, an industrial grade heat gun is required. On my D4, I used wet rags in the vinicity of the bolt head in order to minimize heat in the surrounding area such that the plastic locking tabs would not be damaged. A hex wrench with a long handle will be required to apply enough torque to over come the sealant. Once the old clamp has been removed, you can contact RRS regarding the proper replacement clamp. I would not try to force the bolt wihout heating for fear of breaking the bolt. A machine shop should be able to perform the work but they may ask you to waive any damage claims in case something goes wrong. Good luck

 

[Ed Hurst]

Thanks Phil - all very useful reminders of the key issues with getting rid of the strong adhesive. I will see what mainline have to say about doing such a thing!

 

[fotophil]

When discussing the issue with your machine shop be sure to inform them of the ARCA Factory's use of thread sealant rather than adhesive. The term adhesive implies that the clamp is "glued" to the Cube when in fact the threads of the bolt which attachs the clamp to the Cube is coated with thread sealant.

 

[Ed Hurst]

Good point!

 

[Jeffg53]

Thanks everyone for your replies.

Jeff - thanks for the tip - I will speak with Mainline. Presumably it's this company?: www.mainlinephoto.com.au

Ed

Ed, that's him. Scott should be able to help with your problem. Mainline is one of the brst places around.They have a wealth of experience on all sorts of gear.

 

[Ed Hurst]

They have indicated that they can do the work - I'll keep you posted on how it goes.

By the way, they have suggested fitting a Novoflex clamp (as it is what they stock). I have no experience of them. Can anyone provide any feedback on them? How do they compare to the RRS lever clamps (which I had intended to use)?

 

[alajuela]

They have indicated that they can do the work - I'll keep you posted on how it goes.

By the way, they have suggested fitting a Novoflex clamp (as it is what they stock). I have no experience of them. Can anyone provide any feedback on them? How do they compare to the RRS lever clamps (which I had intended to use)?

I have quite a collection of tripod heads, sane people would say, way tooooo many. Insane people would say tooooo many.

I have used Novoflex for years, the Classic Ballheads, with their clamp, I am very happy with them ,and like the Classic ball 3 better than the RRS 40. (actually just retired it to Miami in favor of the AS P0 - which is great)

If they have the Novoflex Q-Base Arca-Type Auto-Locking Quick Release, it works just fine, although the little pin will get lost or break at some point, which does not affect the clamp at all. One point to mention on this clamp is the hole to attach it to the tripod is not "on center" with the "center" of the clamp, but is on center with the plate. The other clamps I believe do not have a lever option, only screw type.

Their mini clamp is not one I would recommend but their others are very well made.

Hope this helps

 

[kdphotography]

Once you get the thread-locked AS clamp off of your Cube, you can attach the clamp that you want. I would not be in a rush and put on a Novoflex clamp if not personally experienced with the exact clamp model (unless you like collecting clamps in the studio drawer). Make sure it is a clamp that you really like personally.

I don't mind the AS clamp on my Cube, and have swapped it out on a whim at times with a RRS clamp. Aside from the quality point of RRS, I stay with RRS clamps/locks/levers because I want to have the "same standard" across all my gear. Some quick release plates (albeit AS style) are not exactly the same measurement and this can effect the ability of the clamp to lock down securely. The stock AS clamp can be adjusted to fit.

Since I have RRS L-brackets on my Phase DF and Canon DSLR, and a RRS plate on my Cambo, using RRS gear makes it an easy choice.

ken

 

[Jack]

I've been through the gambit with clamps on my Cube. Started with the factory A/S adjustable QR, then went to RRS screw, the RRS QR, and now am back to the A/S Adjustable QR. (The last RRS QR I tried was NOT adjustable and only locked securely with their rails. Their rails are NOT made to the A/S standard, but slightly larger, so many aftermarket A/S rails won't tighten fully in a RRS QR clamp. Since I also like Wimberley rails, and there is variation in the A/S rail standard among 3rd party manufacturers, an adjustable clamp is a must.)

The key for me returning to the original factory A/S QR clamp was two-fold: first was reversing the clamp so I pulled the lever toward me to open it instead of pushing it away -- sounds trivial, but made a world of difference in use, I can now operate it totally blind with confidence and operating the ribbed bar inside the lever to open it fully is now very easy since you are pulling it toward you. (I realized it was designed to use this way after I did it, but never dawned on me before that. A/S does themselves no favors by not offering instructions.) Second was filing a small 'flat' on the A/S lever at the mid opening point. (The lever is Delrin or similar and files easily with a diamond fingernail file.) This flat relaxes the clamp a little extra at the mid point so it opens a little wider there, allowing bars to slide easily without coming out. Secondarily the flat provides a resting spot for the lever at the mid point.

 

[archivue]

i will go for the arca classic clamp like on this D4…

 

[Ed Hurst]

Wow - great input guys. I am blown away by it as usual!

Jack - before my mishap, I had been using the clamp the way around you now have yours and just didn't get on very well with it (though I didn't have your modification of course).

I have some thinking to do!

 

[alajuela]

They have indicated that they can do the work - I'll keep you posted on how it goes.

By the way, they have suggested fitting a Novoflex clamp (as it is what they stock). I have no experience of them. Can anyone provide any feedback on them? How do they compare to the RRS lever clamps (which I had intended to use)?

I would add I am very happy with AS clamps, the flip lock on the cube and the screw on the A0 - I don't understand why some people dislike them so much.

Phil

 

[Ed Hurst]

Hi Phil,

I guess it's a personal thing. I don't like the way that the clamp requires the use of the ribbed bar inside the lever (just doesn't suit my fingers very well). I also find that a certain % of the time, it jams shut and, even though advice gained in response to an earlier question has given me a partial solution (i.e. squeezing the clamp manually before trying to release the clamp), that doesn't work all the time - so sometimes I just can't release the clamp for a while. In fast changing conditions, that is a real nuisance. All told, I have been able to work with it, but it has never given me joy. By contrast, the clamps on my RRS accessories all work flawlessly and in a way that I find very straightforward.

It's a personal thing, and YMMV, so I am not castigating the AS clamp generally - just saying it doesn't work well for me.