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Tethering with the Surface Pro 2: Enabling with the Phase IQ Series + Credo MFDBs

kdphotography

kdphotography

Well-known member
Just two things to add here.

1. It's more than just USB3 capability---it's also the touchscreen interface of the Surface Pro that makes it a natural extension of the IQ MFDB screen. It is very easy and intuitive. The tablet form factor makes it easy to handle in the field, while its computing power is what enables it to handle tethering with C1 Pro 8 with ease.

2. A quick note on the Wolf clamp. I just received mine and it does work alternatively on the RRS MPR-CL II nodal rail. For me this is a better choice since I already have the nodal rail and I want to keep my pack light, so having a rail that can serve two purposes keeps the load smaller.

ken
 
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Paul2660

Well-known member
Ken,

I have the earlier version of the nodal rail without the built on clamp. How are you attaching the tablet clamp to the nodal rail? Mine doesn't have any end attachments like the rail Wolfgang used. But I don't see any on your rail but I may be missing something. I would rather use my nodal rail also as I already have it and carry in the field. Mine may not work.

Thanks
Paul
 
kdphotography

kdphotography

Well-known member
Hi Paul,

My RRS MPR-CL II has a built in clamp that sits on top of and at the end of the rail. So the bad news is that your nodal slide rail won't work by itself. The good news is that by adding a RRS small/mini sliding clamp you will have more adjustability. See, Mini-clamp package
You will need a reducing bushing to insert into the wolf clamp as I think most quick release plates have a 1/4" screw bolt. I simply attached a small quick release plate that I had in the drawer, screwed the 1/4" screw into the bottom of the wolf clamp (after inserting the reducing bushing). Since the end clamp is just for the wolf clamp, you probably don't need the precision or expense of RRS. This would work too: Bidirectional and Subtend Double Clamp Made for SUNWAYFOTO Arca RRs Benro Rail | eBay

Or it might be less expensive to buy a Sunwayfoto nodal slide rail with the built in clamp.

Btw, I actually feel that using the RRS MPR-CL II nodal rail is more stable with the Wolf clamp than the RRS CRD rail simply because with the clamp on top of the rail seems more secure/stable than attaching the clamp on the end clamp that the CRD rail uses, which sorta leaves it hanging there.

ken
 
P

Paul2660

Well-known member
Hi Ken

I have the mini clamp package but I still can't see how the wolf clamp is attached on the end? Whe you get a chance can you post a picture of your setup? I may be able to return the CRD rail.

Thanks
Paul
 
Don Libby

Don Libby

Well-known member
One thing I learned about putting all together is to use a small amount of locktite on the smaller plate that attaches to the clamp that way it stops rotation and makes it sturdier. I just leave the small plate attached to the clamp as it doesn't take up much space and it was a spare I had in storage.

Don
 
Don Libby

Don Libby

Well-known member
Paul, what I think Ken is doing is setting the mini clamp at the end of the rail and then setting the Wolf clamp (with small plate attached) on top of it then adjusting the clamp to view the SP.

Of course I might be completely wrong and Ken has figured out a completely different method....

:worthless:
 
kdphotography

kdphotography

Well-known member
Ok here's my SP2 tethered with wolf clamp set-up. Normally use the Cambo, but the DF was closest at hand.

Phase DF and IQ180 with RRS L bracket or Cambo with RRS MPR-73 3/8s
AS Cube with RRS lever release clamp
RRS TVC-33 with B2 LR2
RRS FAS clamp
RRS MPR-CL II nodal rail (with built-in clamp on end)
AS compatible quick release plate (kirk)
3/8 reducer bushing
Wolf clamp (aka K&M 19740 tablet holder)
SP2 with 18" USB3 left angle cord

Very nice field tethering kit. I think a 1 foot USB3 with left angle would be perfect. Without the angle, 1' is a bit tight---but it does work. But you can also slide either of the clamps closer together, which would give more slack in the cable to connect easier also. Btw, the Manvex case will fit in the Wolf clamp too, but I thought it would be easier to see if the SP was removed from its case.

ken
 
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Paul2660

Well-known member
Ken

Thanks. Never thought about turning the clamp upside down. Actually in yours it's right side up.

I just need the 3/8 plate which should arrive today.


Edit, I got it to work. kinda stupid on my part. Just need the plate and I will have some pictures soon.

BTW, the new USB3 cables from Ken's source arrived yesterday. These fit perfectly, no slack in the housing. Have yet to tether, but I am sure they will work fine.


Paul
 
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kdphotography

kdphotography

Well-known member
Paul2660 said:
....

BTW, the new USB3 cables from Ken's source arrived yesterday. These fit perfectly, no slack in the housing. Have yet to tether, but I am sure they will work fine.


Paul
Click to expand...
Sooooo. Which one's did you get? :)

Double Left, Double Right, Up/Down, Down/Up? Even with coffee my head is spinning. And the of course, that's just for the SP2. But wait--it gets worse. :facesmack: If you use the SP3 and flip the SP3 over in the clamp (so the USB3 plug is on the left side), Double Left becomes Double Right, Double Right becomes Double Left, Up/Down becomes Down/Up, and Down/Up becomes Up/Down.....:loco::facesmack::wtf:

For those who can't follow, look for the angled Device Cables about half way down the page: USB 3.0

Tongue in cheek---but at the same time serious. Which did you get?

ken
 
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Paul2660

Well-known member
Actually after talking to Rick at USBfirewire.com, he steered me to this:

The straight A to B, and then get the angled extension. The weak link is the join at from the cable to the extension, but gaffers tap fixed that.

They could make a true cable with the flat end angled but at a pretty steep cost and depending on Sur2 or Sur3 you need two different angled ends (well not really as Don taught me, just turn the tablet over, :facesmack:)

Cost was around 50.00 per cable and they would have to order it from China, they don't make them in Kansas.

The normal 90 plug on the end that fits into the Phase One back, won't work since the angle hits the camera too soon thus not allowing the plug to get all the way into the back.

Rick was great to work with, another gem in this never ending search for the perfect solution :). PS, I am going to see about a custom A to B with the 90 on the A end (Phase One), they would not need to add more than 1/4" to the length of what is there now. I will update once I hear back from USBfirewire on cost and if that can be done.


They did offer to heat shrink the 90 extension to my straight cable, but I figured, gaffers works as good plus I can always remove the tape if I need a straight entrance.

Paul
 
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kdphotography

kdphotography

Well-known member
Very cool, Paul. My concern is if the SP2 or 3 require different angled plugs---once you flip the SP3 over....

If Rick at USBFirewire can come up with a working angled solution, a Phase IQ Surface USB3 angled tether cord package, I'm sure more than a few of us will want to pick one up.

Hard part is figuring out which angle is needed coming out of each device... I *think* a Double Left angle cord would work (assuming making the IQ side plug in further---maybe trim plastic end?). Right now, I have their 18" straight plug into IQ and a Left angle into SP2. You *might* need a Right angle on SP3 once you flip it over so the USB is on the left side to parallel the IQ MFDB. Angled cords reduce the length needed. A 12" cord with the correct angles would be perfect.

ken
 
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Paul2660

Well-known member
Re: Thanks to all you guys

I was thinking about this post, and how much knowledge and first hand experience has been posted here.

You won't find anything like this on the Phase One site, which surprises me. The techniques and equipment that have shared on this post are amazing.

Ken and Don, both thanks to you for starting this post and the ideas to use the Surface 2 and 3.

I had been trying to figure out a way to work out a better bracket/mount solution and Wolfgang's post answered that ( many thanks).

This is what a forum is all about.

Sincerely
Paul
 
Don Libby

Don Libby

Well-known member
I'm sorta bored today and when I'm bored I measure/weigh things...

The original Ken Doo bracket weighs in at 1.0.4 pounds (or 453.59 grams)

The new and highly improved Wolf bracket weighs 1.10.7 pounds (498.95 grams).

I measured both using my Dymo postal scale. I'm surprised that the older bracket weighed as much as it did and pleased that we only add about 10 oz for a much more stable system.

Don
 
kdphotography

kdphotography

Well-known member
Is that bracket weight comparison with or without the RRS rail? Releases? clamps? Arkon doesn't require the rail, quick release plates, and clamps.

Regardless, I wouldn't trade the stability and easier packing of the Wolf clamp. Being able to recruit a nodal rail into double duty (SP clamp use and nodal point panos) does help too.

ken
 
Don Libby

Don Libby

Well-known member
Ken, I weighed both as we would use them, rails, brackets, QR, everything needed with the Wolf system and the same with the older Arkon (the bracket and leg mounts). Total of 10 oz difference between the two but much more stabilization with the slightly heavier Wolf.

I'll take the heavier clamping system over the older one everyday. Now to figure out if the older one can be recycled.
 
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