Newbie Asks for Advise

[dougpeterson]

That makes a lot of sense to me. I think I have come to the conclusion, the normal MF cameras are really best suited for the studio and they produce big files. The reviews I have read and the one Leica dealer I talked to, indicate the S is like holding a 35mm. I will find a dealer and go see one.

I'd say at this point only a minority of our Phase One users are using their system only for studio work. The IQ series was a major turning point in that regard since the user interface on the P+ only provided very basic review of the image in the field, whereas the IQ has a Retina touchscreen LCD and a fast feature-full review system.

The size of the raw files out of an IQ140 is about the same as a Leica S.

Integrated cameras like the S2 will give you slightly more portability/compactness but are not compatible with the tech cameras popular with many landscape shooters.

The S is a great camera and you should try it out. I'd just also suggest trying out at least one of the Phase/Hassy/Pentax options prior to committing to any system of such expense.

 

[Mammy645]

Sounds like you've made up your mind, but it's a strange choice if you ask me. You said you wanted something different, the Leica S is going to be the least different from your 5D2 of any MF camera. Personally I don't even regard it as a MF camera as the chip is small and it's even got that horrible 3:2 aspect ratio. You also mentioned you wanted to get one foot wet but not soaked, the S-system is probably the most expensive you could possibly get into. Then there's your desire to slow down which again I don't see how the Leica S would help you with.

But hey, it's your money, it just doesn't sound to me like you're quite sure what itch you are trying to scratch.

P.s. I use all my cameras out and about, not just studio, I even shoot street & documentary with them.

 

[iiiNelson]

All modern Phase One backs are supported in LightRoom, so if you want a P1 back you can use LR if that's your preference, including for tethering via the hot-folder option.

My understanding from your comments on other threads is you've never done any formal instruction on Capture One. It has one of the larger learning curves, but it's very popular amongst digital techs, rental houses, and major production studios as well as many quality-oriented individual photographers.

We include Capture One training with every digital back sale and if learning the software is an obstacle to your considering the equipment I'm sure we could arrange for some free training to help you get the most out of the software as part of your evaluation.

Wandering around C1 without training can be a bit painful. But with even a bit of "here's what they were thinking" overview the overwhelming majority of our clients find it pretty straightforward.

There's also the limiting factor of C1Pro not supporting lens profiles for my "other" cameras to deal with.

To your original point though - no I haven't done formal training and it's not so much that the software is really THAT difficult to learn but it's not second nature for me. I'm an intelligent person and I know what the buttons do. I know how to edit an images. It just doesn't mesh as well as DXO Optics Pro, Aperture, Lightroom, or even Photoshop CC for that matter. The lack of natural usability, the bugs in the software, the extra time spent to do edits, and the requirement to use another RAW converter for my other cameras makes it a no go FOR ME. Training won't fix bugs in the software but all you can do is demo the software to make your decision.

C1 works fine for many people and that's great for them but for me I would try to stick with the best supported "native" solution - especially when it comes to MF. Native workflow is a huge part of the investment from everything I've read be it reviews or user experiences from photographers far more experienced than myself.

 

[Sabrejet]

I have a lot more research to do. And yes, I must at least hold these in my hands if I can find them here in Fl.
Jay

 

[Stuart Richardson]

Honestly, I think you should take a step back and think about this. Why are you considering investing a very large amount of money in a kind of camera system you have never used before when you are not particularly focused regarding what kind of photography you want to do? I don't mean this to say you don't have the right to buy a camera like this unless you are a pro, not at all...but this is a very large investment in a very different kind of camera. What are you really trying to gain out of this? In what way is the 5D2 holding you back? It's not to say that medium format digital cameras don't offer better image quality, because they usually do, but they have other sacrifices compared to 35mm digital cameras -- be it cost, ISO performance, speed, portability, weight, general handling. Don't get me wrong...I shoot MFD and love my camera, but it is quite a different experience than 35mm and it is not for everyone, particularly considering the resolution and performance of modern digital cameras, which are so good that there are really few practical reasons to go larger. (There are some lovely impractical reasons though!!)

If you want to slow down and focus more on composition, why not try only shooting on manual and only with one prime lens? If you really want to try something different, why not get used medium format film camera and try that? You can find an extremely good one for less than the cost of your 5D Mark II, and you can get a lot of film and scanning before you get anywhere close to the cost of a MFD system.

By all means try out some MFD systems if you can...Florida seems to be a good location to find some, but please think before you leap, otherwise you might be badly burned on the investment, particularly if you buy new and then decide it is not for you...

 

[alajuela]

I have a lot more research to do. And yes, I must at least hold these in my hands if I can find them here in Fl.
Jay

Hello

Capture Integration has an office and great representative in Florida - Chris will get you what ever you want to try out.

Chris Snipes
[email protected]
Sales Manager, Florida
813.335.2473

If you are closer to Atalanta - Then you can go to their Main office

Steve Hendrix
[email protected]
Sales Manager, Atlanta
404-543-8475

I highly recommend them.

Thanks

Phil

 

[Sabrejet]

I want to thank all that helped me in my quest. I am now the proud owner of a Mamiya RZ67 Proll. Now for some lenses, any recommendations?
Thanks, Jay

 

[Mammy645]

Congrats! I'd say start with whatever normal lens you got with the camera, the 90mm and 110mm are both fantastic lenses. Then when you are more familiar with the camera and know what you are missing in terms of focal length you can start adding to the collection. There are no real stinkers in the rz67 lens lineup, but if you want the best of the best go for the ULD or L/A version if there are two versions available, the only drawbacks are they are usually more expensive, bigger and heavier. Make sure you download the PDF manual if you didn't get a physical one with your camera, and read it thoroughly, then look forward to being blown away when you see that first roll of glorious 6x7 film back from the lab. Good luck and have fun!

 

[johnnygoesdigital]

Good choice, plenty of RZ lenses for little $. Get the ULD 50mm, best MFD lens I've used. The RZ is hands down the best value to shoot both digital and film. The H1/2's are also nice, but feel kinda cheap with that plastic window at the top.

 

[Hulyss Bowman]

Hello Sabrejet,

We live interesting times actually. You already have a 5DII, it is a good and solid camera but I understood that you want to go further in your pictures, taking your time, improving the quality.

So yes you have the choice today. Going with an old system in time consuming imho. Going D810 and good lenses will cost you some. So here are my 3 options :

- You jump directly into MF land and take a Pentax 645Z and a smc FA 645 45-85mm F4.5 to start with. For animals you will buy later a long lens, like the smc FA 645 400mm F5.6 ED (IF), not an expensive lens. On the net you will find plenty of Pentax legacy lenses for nothing. You have the most advanced and versatile sensor/system available.

- You jump on Nikon. D810 + Zeiss 135 f2 + Nikkor 50 f1.2 + Zeiss 21 f2.8 + Sigma 120-300 f2.8.
More versatility, lighter, very good IQ but not an MF, at all. MF will bring you a very different experience.

- You just had to your gear a brand new MF film camera. Or two... Just grab a Voigtländer Bessa III 667 and his brother the Voigtländer Bessa 667 W, a scanner EPSON V750 and some films. Then you make your local film lab working a bit more.

 

[Sabrejet]

I have done a lot of reading of the manual and playing with camera, shot one roll and like what I see. Now for some lenses. I think I know the order, non W, W, W-N, L-A, ULD and Floating. My question is, from what I see on E, is the IQ that much better with the increase is price? Talked to a person that said he had worked for Mamiya and did not feel for instance the 50mm floating was any better than the original one.
See a lot of lenses listed from Japan. Is anyone here that can recommend a dealer from there?
Thank you, Jay

 

[Mammy645]

There are no real stinkers in the rz67 lens range, so it's hard to say if it's worth the extra money for you or not. The L-A versions are supposed to be better mainly at the edges, but you have to remember to set the floating lens ring to the right distance, an extra step that's easy to forget at times.

If you live in the states there's no real reason to buy from Japan, it will only cost you more and there are plenty of lenses available for sale in the US. Wherever you end up buying from make sure you check for fungus when you get the lens, especially if you are buying from a region that has a humid climate (like Japan in the summer).

 

[Sabrejet]

I now have two lenses for my rz67. There is a member in our local club that has a compendium hood he wants to sell me. I have always used hoods now and in the past. A little I see on e is all I know about them. Do the just hang on the front of the lens?
Thanks, Jay

 

[Leigh]

The V-series (traditional) Hasselblad is a great system for both film and digital.

I have two 555ELD motorized bodies, and they work like a champ.
With a full set of lenses from 40mm to 500mm, a CFV-39 digital back, and film backs, I can shoot whatever I want.

Since the modern Hasselblad cameras have come out, prices on the V-series bodies and lenses have dropped significantly. They're still excellent performers.

- Leigh