Not sure if I'm the best to answer since I'm just starting to experiment with the GG, but here it goes.
Originally Posted by satybhat
I want to keep the GG attached to the camera in the backpack, so for me the first step is mounting the camera and lens on the tripod.
I dial in rough focus just by estimating distance and setting the HPF ring. I have these frame lines I plan to print onto a clear mask (minus the blue diagonals of course):
The three formats are:
- std 54x40
- 72x54 - 2 image vertical stitch to 4:3 ratio
- 90 x 40 - Max Pano stitch on my STC.
Compose as desired then use the D5 Disto to accurately measure distance and set the HPF ring. If there is shift or tilt required, dial that in now with whatever method you like (I use Jae Moon's Numbers spreadsheet for tilt calcs).
If the final focus setting is much different than the original estimate, recheck framing.
Remove the GG and mount the back. Estimate exposure and shoot. Shift and shoot for pano's if required, along with LCC's.
My whole reason for the GG is because as I stitch more, I'm taking an awful lot of shots for each set up (I don't carry a viewfinder or light meter). I've become pretty good at estimating exposure, and focus is spot on with the D5/HPF combo. The only reason for the multiple shots is framing. Without a GG I have no way of accurately seeing the edges without simply taking shots. Sure I can just delete them later, but I'm not a fan of deleting in-camera, so it still becomes a hassle. Who knows, maybe I will find the GG is more of a pain and go back to what I've been doing; I will let you know!
Since I'm using this only for framing, I just need to see the image. I don't need a 10 - 12x loupe and very dark conditions.