I'm collecting my gear, so Could you advice me please. It would be better to fight with the ambient light with higher shutter (LS lens, not HSS) or would be better to do it with ND filter ?
You should have a set of ND filters in your bag (or a Vario-ND), or at least a polarizing filter for your lenses. If you will be shooting primarily under ambient light conditions and expect the sun to suit your required shutter speed, that would be impracticable IMO. Another factor that will happen over time, you will want to control the shutter speed (i.e., waterfalls, etc.) to get the image you pre-visualize, and the tools for that is ND filtration if the appropriate f/stop is not available.
I forgot to mention, that I use one strobe as well.
but from a technical point of view, could you explain me, what benefits are shooting with ND filter if we compare it to shooting with LS (leaf shutter).
in first situation with ND filter I will lose more power for strobe to dim ambient light, in the second I can dim ambient light with LS and save that power.
both ways go to the same point, am I right ? the output image should be the same..
therefore LS lens or ND filter ?
Are you referring to using the leaf shutter for dragging shutter to darken background? If so, then do not over complicate your exposure ratio by using a ND filter.
No need to use ND filter in studio where you can control exposure.
Use a ND filter when you cannot achieve a slower shutter speed due to ambient light.
Theres a couple cons about using an ND filter, first the AF will start to struggle, specially in overcast/dim light or with a very strong ND filter. Second, if you don't use a good ND filter the bokeh will render a texture. I once used a Vari ND filter and the bokeh was really distracting, also you will end up with a loss of sharpness. Also the ND filter will add a tint to the images, it doesn't matter for me but it's an extra step in post to correct that.
Here's a couple examples of the texture of an ND filter.
Please take the following into account that I am primarily a landscape, nature as well as limited wildlife photographer using both a tech camera as well as a DF. I carry ND as well as a big stopper filter with me when I go out and occasionally use them on both systems depending on the situation at hand. I currently also have 2-LS lenses in 55 and 240. My light source is always whatever is available to me at the time since I don't normally use any type of flash. (While I do own a flash I only use it when shooting macro with my 120mm macro lens).
I totally agree with Darr that you should have a set of filters with you. Better to have them and not need them (or use them) than need them and not have them. Hope that makes sense...
I also normally throw out any type of rulebook when I shoot as I go after what I'm looking for at the moment not what that rulebook says I should do. Again I hope that makes sense. One of my most often used lens happens to be a 55LS that I've used to capture landscape, sunrises and sunsets as well as "smoking-water" all using a combination of no filters or ND or a big stopper. I try like hell not to have a preconceived notion of what I want preferring to let the circumstances dictate what I'm about to do. Any while there's a lot you can do in post it's better to have the tools with you in order to capture in-camera than yo force something in post.
So in the end, based on landscape outdoor shooting I'd recommend both.
Hope this helps....
I did some test. 645df+ with P25+, 80mm LS, iso100
ND filter Lee 0.9
The difference is in contrast.
and to the point..
from some time I've been thinking to change the system into Pentax 645Z. It have only 125 shutter sync, but with ND filters I can handle that.
The sensor of P25+ is big and I really like it.. Pentax 645Z have 44x33 sensor. The difference wil be in DOF. But does this difference is big ? and whether the change is worth it.. this is a second question.. and I need to find answer for.
The crop on the P45+ is a 1:1 or 10% less than a full frame sensor like the IQ180 Dalsa chip. The newer 50 MP chips are 1:3 or a 30% crop of a full frame sensor.
If you shoot wide a lot which I do the crop is a big consideration. I was able to work with the P45 crop much easier but it did burn me on a few shots as I never added a mask to my DF body.
This post from getdpi shows an excellent comparison between the full frame and cropped sensor and gives an idea of the focal range lost between the two sensors when using the 23HR.
Paul, what light are you using?
With LS lenses it's important to use strobe with fast flash duration. My P30+ maximum sync speed is 1/800th of a second and I use Elinchrom Ranger Speed AS with S head. With Pocket Wizard Plus II, Flex TT5 or Mini TT1 I was only able to get maximum speed of 1/640th of a second with about 2-3 stops of loss of power of my light. Though I was able to reach 1/800th being hard wired to the power pack and the loss of the flash power was much less.
The least expensive studio strobe that can take advantage of, or rather utilize the high flash sync capabilities of Phase/SK LS lenses wirelessly--- is the Einstein with their cybersync transmitter and transceiver.
And Profoto Airsync also works wirelessly up to maximum 1/1600th sec (if you're using the right back).
Includes discussion on PW in fast mode.