Let's begin a discussion on technical cameras

[Paul2660]

In a perfect world I would trade in my 35XL and 28 HR and get the 32. But I can't seem to get anywhere on that.

The 28. Is probably the sharpest lens I have and the hyper focal distance with 1/2 a degree of tilt at f8 is about 10 feet.

I feel it needs the CF unless in low light as the noise in the corners can get harsh. The CF takes it from 72mm to 95mm and you can use one slim filter in front of the CF.

You have to watch for flare and I most times use a hood on the lens. I use a Lee wide angle hood and the Lee 95 to 105mm adapter. This allows the use of 1 square filter. There is not a Lee or other brand 95mm wide angle ring.

Great Lens a bit heavy but not a large and massive as the 32mm.

It's almost always in my bag.

Paul

 

[jotloob]

Thanks Paul.

So it is possible to shift lets say 5mm with the 28HR without any issues?

Peter

I found 5mm shift for the 28HR is absolutely the most you can do without vignetting .
And that is valid for a sensor size 37x48 .
As you use an IQ160 you will be well at the limit .:thumbdown:

 

[Pemihan]

Sounds like I need to go dig up some gold nuggets and go the 32HR route instead...!

 

[jlm]

some rough pricing guides:
rodie 32, copal #0, no focus helicoid (for lens board mounting) is about $7,000 (gasp)
an SK60, copal #0, no focus helicoid (for lens board mounting) is about $3,400
and for more giggles:
an SK60, ALPA lableled, copal #0, with focus helicoid is about $6,700 (gasp)

 

[Don Libby]

Every time I become serious about the 32HR I step back and think about how good the 40HR is and how close to the same focal length it is. Understanding the 32 would in all likelihood be a single capture lens with my IQ180 (no shifting or very little shifting) I can accomplish near the same with just a little effort using the 40HR. I then step back from the edge. Sure the 32 would be nice to have but I'm unwilling to give up the 40 so maybe I need to look for a wider lens that isn't so close to the 40; a lens I'm willing to shoot without any movements as a single frame and that frame being as large if not larger than what I can hope to get from the 40 with movements. This all makes sense to me as I write this...

 

[awolf]

What are you using to hold the SP3?

 

[Pemihan]

Every time I become serious about the 32HR I step back and think about how good the 40HR is and how close to the same focal length it is. Understanding the 32 would in all likelihood be a single capture lens with my IQ180 (no shifting or very little shifting) I can accomplish near the same with just a little effort using the 40HR. I then step back from the edge. Sure the 32 would be nice to have but I'm unwilling to give up the 40 so maybe I need to look for a wider lens that isn't so close to the 40; a lens I'm willing to shoot without any movements as a single frame and that frame being as large if not larger than what I can hope to get from the 40 with movements. This all makes sense to me as I write this...

I have the same thoughts...

 

[Don Libby]

Just did a quick price check on 23 and 28mm lens...

23 HR - $7,690
28HR - $8,168
28SuperDigital - $6,177

And then there's Murphy's Law - as soon as I'd get on of these Phase will release their new improved body that has everything I've ever lusted after.

Crap - the best thing for me to do is nothing...

:banghead:

 

[Don Libby]

What are you using to hold the SP3?

The easiest way to answer this is to point you here.

The first couple pages will give you the history where the last page or so will be the current status. Let me know if you need more information...


Don

 

[Paul2660]

Don

Which lens is the 28mm super digital??

Thanks
Paul

 

[kdphotography]

What are you using to hold the SP3?

Just a quick Surface Pro update FYI. I've updated the shopping list for tethering with the Surface Pro at the end of my blog article: https://kendoophotography.wordpress...s-and-leaf-credo-medium-format-digital-backs/

We'll probably update again with photos as well as yet another clamping option (light duty smaller hiking option) at a later date.

ken

 

[Don Libby]

Don

Which lens is the 28mm super digital??

Thanks
Paul

that's the Schneider WDS 547. I wonder how good it would be on an IQ180....

 

[Paul2660]

I forgot the Schneider 28. Thanks.

Guy did a good review of the 28 HR and Schneider28 about a year ago. It's in the review section of this forum. He used a 160 back.

I believe Edna C uses the Schneider also.

Paul

 

[f8orbust]

I think you mean Enda...

 

[Don Libby]

Thinking about this and have decided I really don't want to go down this rabbit hole ... but I think it may be too late

 

[Paul2660]

I think you mean Enda...

Yes. Thanks, sorry Enda.

Paul.

 

[Paul2660]

One other issue hat has kept me out of the rabbit hole is the CF for the 32mm @ 1.3K. Some shoot without it but I feel in many situations it makes a difference.

7.7 for the lens. 1K to mount it (Arca) and 1.3K for the CF.

But it can get to 15-18mm of shift.

I keep hoping to see a demo come on the market

Paul

 

[AreBee]

Paul,

You will start to see a hard black vignette at 6mm and is you go any further the vignette becomes very damaging to the file.

I've read on several occasions about the disc inside Rodenstock lenses. I wonder if you or anyone else can help me understand a bit more about this issue by answering the following:

1. Is there anything physically stopping the photographer from using movements to shift/rise/fall beyond the perimeter of the disc, even if doing so will increasingly return a hard vignette in the captured image?

2. If the answer to point 1 is "no" then is it true that a photographer shooting a stitched panorama would simply shift to a greater extent than normal, because the relatively shallow height of a panorama can 'reach' into the left/right edges of the lens image circle more so than other aspects?

3. Does the hard vignette from the disc cause any issue when applying the LCC file in Capture 1?

4. When you say "very damaging to the file" what do you mean? Just the hard vignette, or something else?

 

[Paul2660]

I guess it's up to ones impression. Taking a look at any of the test crops by Voidshatter you can see just who much of the image is lost by the hard vignette. This hard black is sometimes preceded by a lighter band of light that the LCC can't correct.

If you don't mind cropping out all of the black then you could still use the rest of the file. But it would become close to a 1:3 ratio if you used the whole image

The black corner vignette also is easier to work with if the area is not blue sky. This is where it's most destructive to me since you really can have a hard time trying to recover it.

Voids works is with the 23HR but the effect is the vignette is the same Nd he has a lot of good examplea with blue sky.

My point being-- the indicator is out in there by Rodenstock to keep users from shifting past the edge of the image circle due to rhe fact that they feel you should not shift past this optimum spot. In using the lens it's quite apparent that you could easily get to 10mm and still have plenty of good quality image on a modern MFD back.

Paul

 

[alajuela]

In a perfect world I would trade in my 35XL and 28 HR and get the 32. But I can't seem to get anywhere on that.

The 28. Is probably the sharpest lens I have and the hyper focal distance with 1/2 a degree of tilt at f8 is about 10 feet.

I feel it needs the CF unless in low light as the noise in the corners can get harsh. The CF takes it from 72mm to 95mm and you can use one slim filter in front of the CF.

You have to watch for flare and I most times use a hood on the lens. I use a Lee wide angle hood and the Lee 95 to 105mm adapter. This allows the use of 1 square filter. There is not a Lee or other brand 95mm wide angle ring.

Great Lens a bit heavy but not a large and massive as the 32mm.

It's almost always in my bag.

Paul

Hi Paul

Quick question, do you have shoot an LCC with 28HR when shooting straight on - no shift or rise? have you had any experience with 28 HR on the 180 or 280?

thanks so much

Phil