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Please help a total MF noob choose the right gear

You've gotten great advise so far so the next step is on you. Rent the kit and use it like you would on a job and see for yourself if it'll work for you or do you need to tweak anything. Better you find out beforehand than to make a costly mistake based on what others have said.

Don
Ultimately, there are no (or very few) "bad" tech cameras or lenses, they can either be incompatible with each other or your work style. Renting and demoing gear before buying is of course recommended no matter what.

Then there is the question of things like - is an IQx80 and set of Rodie glass worth the hefty price premium over an IQx60 and SK lenses? I think it's a case of chasing after that last 5% of quality, although that 5% may end up costing you +100%.
 

Paul2660

Well-known member
One other comment, as I was a bit unclear on my first post.

To me, the main issue with the 23mm is the 70mm IC, as this severely limits you on shifts i.e. 5mm or so Phase One 60MP and on up. Plus there are other optical issues that will possibly come into play, mainly due to the IC indicator. The white band prior to the solid black can be almost impossible to remove for example in a blue sky. Against foliage, you may not even see it. However no matter, the hard edge of the IC indicator makes for very troublesome issues on shifts. There is some mustache distortion, however not as much as in the 32mm as already noted. The 23mm also has flare issues, it's well known for these problems. I have read some posts where Rodenstock has fixed this or improved it with new coatings. The 23mm will greatly benefit from the center filter made by Rodenstock, as it will even out the frame and help reduce noise in the edges of the frame. The CF takes you from 72mm filter size to 95mm and is around 995.00 US.

The 32mm Rodenstock to me has the worst mustache distortion of all the wide Rodenstocks, and will take a lot of work in post to correct if you even can. For objects with known dimensions (by this I mean that the human eye already knows what a car looks like) so if a car looks elongated and flattened, you will see it almost immediately. The 32mm on the mid line of the frame really has an issue with this especially on a full size sensor and if you shift the issue is made much worse. Rise fall may not suffer as well.

I had noticed this effect for a while with my 40mm, on shifts of 15mm or more, but it never really bothered me as it was just starting to show by 12mm of shift, however on the 32mm, when I tested it (2 different lenses), the effect made me at first think I had something wrong with my camera/sensor the distortion was that extreme.

The best solution, demo/test, the gear with your dealer and see if the issue are enough to matter. All of these lenses are expensive so make sure they are working for you.

Paul
 

RiGo

New member
I'm now the owner of a MF technical camera system!

Now I'll just make my way up the learning curve.

Thank you everyone for your advice.
 
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