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Hasselblad CFV-50c to Sell at $9995 During 4Q15
- Thread starter Jager
- Start date
GrahamWelland
Subscriber & Workshop Member
That's a killer deal. Add a Cambo Actus DB and a lens and you could be up and running with a great platform for under $15k all in.
Btw, do you have a link to the announcement? I didn't see anything on the Hasselblad/Bron website.
Btw, do you have a link to the announcement? I didn't see anything on the Hasselblad/Bron website.
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The announcement was made in Hasselblad's newsletter, sent via email.
This link HERE should render the text of the announcement, though the URL is missing the embedded picture (of the CFV attached to a 500-series body).
weinlamm
Member
Got the info from my dealer now, too.
But one short question:
Is it possible to use this back with a technical Cam (like my Cambo)?
I know it's possible to shoot with an Actus:
https://cambouk.wordpress.com/2015/03/23/cambo-actus-db-and-hasselblad-cfv-50c/
But is it possible to shoot with 1000/1200/1250 Cambo? I could remember, that there was something... The guys from Hasselblad had told me something at Photokina last year... Need a modification?
But it's so long ago and I had forgotten and can't found to the fast here.
But one short question:
Is it possible to use this back with a technical Cam (like my Cambo)?
I know it's possible to shoot with an Actus:
https://cambouk.wordpress.com/2015/03/23/cambo-actus-db-and-hasselblad-cfv-50c/
But is it possible to shoot with 1000/1200/1250 Cambo? I could remember, that there was something... The guys from Hasselblad had told me something at Photokina last year... Need a modification?
But it's so long ago and I had forgotten and can't found to the fast here.
GrahamWelland
Subscriber & Workshop Member
There is no problem mounting the CFV-50c on Cambo tech cams that I'm aware of. In fact it's the same adapter plate.
You may have been thinking about Hasselblad H mount backs that needed an external battery pack?
The CFV backs have their battery underneath the back. You will need an L bracket (it came with my CFV-16) for the battery to fit some Hasselblad bodies and also with SWC bodies you'll need a shorter tripod mount plate for the back/battery to fit - John Milich sells a replacement plate.
You may have been thinking about Hasselblad H mount backs that needed an external battery pack?
The CFV backs have their battery underneath the back. You will need an L bracket (it came with my CFV-16) for the battery to fit some Hasselblad bodies and also with SWC bodies you'll need a shorter tripod mount plate for the back/battery to fit - John Milich sells a replacement plate.
stngoldberg
Well-known member
On an Arca rm3di and the CFV-50c back with its 1.5 crop factor, will the focus cards I use with my H5d50 back need revision?
Stanley
Stanley
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The cards should be used with the same distance references. No change. At least it was with my rm3di and IQ150.
Only thing that will be off is the vario finder. But with live view don't need it.
Paul
Wow, great price on a great back. I nearly bought one of these recently, but ended up with a Credo 60 for the bigger sensor and because it can handle bigger movements with the right lenses. THe files I shot on my Linhof Techno during tests with a CFV-50c were stunning, no question about it, but past a certain point of shift things started to fall apart quite repidly. For most people working with moderate movements, I don't think it'd be a problem. If you want to stich 6x12 panoramas with a bit of rise or fall, then you're going to see problems.
Anyway, great deal!
Anyway, great deal!
stngoldberg
Well-known member
Why does the credo 60 accommodate bigger movements. Is it because of the cropped sensor?
Stanley
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Thank you, paul
Stanley
One opinion on the 50MP and movements, again coming from the Arca rm3di and 28mm, 40mm and 60mm lenses.
The Sony sensor will show a pretty hard shift to the red/magenta much past 8mm to 10mm. I shifted the IQ150 all the way to 15mm, with the 40mm Rodenstock and 20mm with the 60XL. The color cast will eventually turn the last 1/3 of the shifted image red. C1 can actually do a pretty good job on cleaning up the red shift in many cases. Pulling back a good amount of green (trees for example). The area that was hurt the most was a blue sky, as the LCC corrections I used just would not totally pull out the red. Pure blue no clouds being the worst. With the local adjustments tab in C1, you can clean up quite a bit and still get a pretty nice image.
Noise is nominal, unlike shifting the IQ260, where I find noise will very often create quite a problem at times.
To be totally honest, after a few shoots, I found that C1 was able to get my IQ150 image for the most part cleaned up, as long as I did not reach beyond 15mm. I had hoped the 28mm due to the crop would allow a bit more shift, but not really, maybe 1mm?
The main reason I stayed with the 260, was the 1:3 crop of the IQ150. Others on this site don't mind it, but on testing, I found I had to backup 12 to 14 feet to get close to the same framing and in many cases where I shoot, you just can't go back that far. If I was out west, with the grand spaces, decision might have been different.
Paul
The Sony sensor will show a pretty hard shift to the red/magenta much past 8mm to 10mm. I shifted the IQ150 all the way to 15mm, with the 40mm Rodenstock and 20mm with the 60XL. The color cast will eventually turn the last 1/3 of the shifted image red. C1 can actually do a pretty good job on cleaning up the red shift in many cases. Pulling back a good amount of green (trees for example). The area that was hurt the most was a blue sky, as the LCC corrections I used just would not totally pull out the red. Pure blue no clouds being the worst. With the local adjustments tab in C1, you can clean up quite a bit and still get a pretty nice image.
Noise is nominal, unlike shifting the IQ260, where I find noise will very often create quite a problem at times.
To be totally honest, after a few shoots, I found that C1 was able to get my IQ150 image for the most part cleaned up, as long as I did not reach beyond 15mm. I had hoped the 28mm due to the crop would allow a bit more shift, but not really, maybe 1mm?
The main reason I stayed with the 260, was the 1:3 crop of the IQ150. Others on this site don't mind it, but on testing, I found I had to backup 12 to 14 feet to get close to the same framing and in many cases where I shoot, you just can't go back that far. If I was out west, with the grand spaces, decision might have been different.
Paul
JohnBrew
Active member
Well, crap. So they finally made it moderately affordable and I always said that when they did I would jump. But just when I get my first tele-zoom Nikon in ten years and am starting to actually enjoy it. So, whadda ya gonna do? Go for the versatility of the Nikon or the quality of the MFDB?
If you think I'd miss the Nikon all that much, think again. My other system is a Leica M-P and three wonderful lenses. But, still...there is always that lure of the next mountain. Oh, my...
If you think I'd miss the Nikon all that much, think again. My other system is a Leica M-P and three wonderful lenses. But, still...there is always that lure of the next mountain. Oh, my...
Quoting from page 38 of the CFV-50c manual:
"Shift settings are not recommended on cameras with wide angle lenses and a short lens to image plane distance."
When you use any piece of gear in a manner discouraged by the manufacturer, you can expect anomalies.
- Leigh
PeterA
Well-known member
Keep your Nikon system - the reasons you go to it instead of your Leica (or vica versa) are different to the reasons you shoot MF technical - you will miss your DSLR type camera - it does all the stuff that the others do - sort of - but excels in portrait to tele focal lengths. MF for me is wide- I dont own a lens longer than 70mm for my tech cameras - wide baby - wide.
OR sitch stitch stitch if want to...The Sony works up to a point, with less **** /tilt movement latitude than a larger sensor size provides, even though many of these sensors test the limits of acceptability when employing super wides - the crop factor can't be ignored when it comes to lens to film plane tilts and shifts..with a Sony mounted on to a tech camera- I'd go for CaNikon wides..over a Rodenstock or Schneider...no need to pay the uber bucks if you are using a 35MM chip.Glad to see Hasselblad points this out in the manual. I was using the Phase implementation of the chip in the IQ150, where usage information is a bit more vague.
Paul
Hi John.
Nice shot. And a good example of how the back works in a nodal setup.
The crop factor may work in favor for such stitching.
The other issues I would have with the 50c are no C1 support and tethering. I assume the Focus from Hasselblad allows for a USB tethered capture?
Paul
Nice shot. And a good example of how the back works in a nodal setup.
The crop factor may work in favor for such stitching.
The other issues I would have with the 50c are no C1 support and tethering. I assume the Focus from Hasselblad allows for a USB tethered capture?
Paul
Well, according to what I found, the CFV50C has only a Firewire 800 interface..... No USB. A BIG mistake.....
FW800 is dead, now that Apple abandoned it in lieu of Thunder-whatever.....
Find a current model Tablet or Laptop or Desktop that has FW800..... You will need to put an aftermarket card in your PC, by an old Mac-something, or.... SOL.
I do think there is an adapter from Apple that does FW800 to Thunder-whatever..... Now you must find out if that accessory will supply sufficient power to power the CFV... as the FW connector blocks use of the battery... ie, Battery or FW, not both. And Hasselblad recommends you have the FW computer powered from AC, not battery.....
I think there is a prejudice on the part of Back makers that if you are tethered, you must be indoors, in a studio,,,,, ie, whatever you need you can just wire up..... The outdoor landscape community is just not considered. ( this changed with the recent Credo and P1 backs)
Having said that, I am most interested as well..... but I am also looking at a Credo 40... 4/5 of the pixels, a bit more expensive, but long term support, use of C1, and that USB3 port are certainly commanding issues.....
FrankF