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Star Trail Technique Article?

rga

Member
I seem to remember someone once posted an article they wrote on how to photograph star trails and use some sort of software afterwards to join them together.

Does anyone remember this and, if so, can you please point me to it? Thought it was a "Front Page" article here, but cannot find it.
Thanks!
Bob
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
Just a thought but if you intend to use your new credo you will need to disable the dark frame for 2-4 min exposures. (I know that I can do this with my IQ150 by putting it in aerial shooting mode - not sure about the Credo though). Paul used a Nikon D800E for his stacked examples. For MF you may prefer to keep to using a single long exposure - I've done that with my P25+ and IQ260 in the past with good results. The CMOS sensor should be even better although I haven't tried mine yet.
 

Paul2660

Well-known member
As Graham mentioned, you need to be in aerial mode to keep the back from taking a dark frame if you want to stack. If you want to take a single long exposure (not the best for star trails) then you will want the dark frame as you will need it to help reduce the noise (at least in a 30min to 1 hour exposure.

Where the Sony should do well is in a series of stacked exposures, with long noise off, however based on what I have seen from the Sony A7rII, (which is showing way too much stuck pixel noise in anything longer than 30 seconds with long noise off), I don't know what to expect from the 50MP Sony. I never tried to shoot the IQ150 I had briefly for anything longer than 30 seconds and that was in a normal setup.

If you want to stack, with Medium format, then the biggest issues is total lack of an intervalometer for the camera. Currently the XF doesn't even have a cable remote (last time I checked and another huge oversight by Phase One, although there are pinouts for one, just can't use the current Mamiya release). Even if you could the current Mamiya release is only a trigger and not a intervalometer. You really need this otherwise you have stand there and manually time the exposures and that is just not a great solution for night work at least.

My article and others will point out that if you want to use the moon to help illuminate your foreground and give a more pleasing look to the night sky, you need to stack as a single long exposure in these conditions will over illuminate the sky and thus only the brightest stars will leave trails. (exposures of 30min to 1 hour).

The software to close the gaps, is "startracer", PC only but does a great job. I don't know if it will work on a Phase One file as it was designed around 35mm full frame and APS-C cameras.

Paul
 

rga

Member
I'll test the aerial mode. I would be thrilled if it would work as expected.
Thank you both!! :clap::thumbs:

Now to find a cable intervalometer!

Thanks so much again,
Bob
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
No such mode for the Credo 50.
*sigh*
I did wonder. It's one the those things that are different between the Leaf & Phase backs. I agree though.

Ditto I wish that my Phase One back could use Leaf colour profiles ... *sigh*
 
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