After updating both latest firmwares my IQ250 now has a vertical white strip line in left side of screen (live view only) (1px wide).
After updating both latest firmwares my IQ250 now has a vertical white strip line in left side of screen (live view only) (1px wide).
Never had a problem with it.
I'd strongly recommend people to use Phase One gear for timelapse work!
Personally, I'm looking forward to creating some 12K timelapses. Only the IQ3 100 can create those. Nothing else comes close.
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Last edited by DougDolde; 19th March 2016 at 14:22.
Thanks Graham for the mirror tip. I will try it Monday when I get back in the studio. That will be a big help if I can look thru the camera without it being on.
Thanks Doug for all the suggestions.
A consultation with the dealer would be great but the company won't pay for it (I have to figure this out on my own). We would have to change 15+ Speedotron packs and 40+ heads so the Profoto stuff is out too. The PocketWizard stuff we use seems to work fine. If I can get the XF interface simplified and the power issue solved I can make the rest work.
As for the cables and power/tethering, is there one solution for Mac Pro and MacBook Pro? Neither of them have firewire. It is Thunderbolt or USB only. Do I buy those cables/adapters from you or another source?
I uploaded a quick unlisted video to YouTube here https://youtu.be/-g9S-4gaIf0
which shows what I am interpreting from the descriptions I have read as the way to use autofocus along with the new focus stacking tool. Those of you who have been able to use autofocus with the tool, could you take a look and let me know if Iím missing some little thing, or if my camera just doesnít seem to be operating the same way?
Iíve reset the camera to defaults to make sure it isnít a setting Iíve changed, and Iíve tried this with 3 of my 4 lenses (40-80LS, 75-150 non LS, and 240LS).
Impressed with the new firmware so far. They gave my iq150 the XF control menu and shutter/lens controls so I'm super happy!
No exposure heat map so phase one are still money grabbing b******ds as far as that side of functionality is concerned since they insist on supporting this only on iq2/3 series.
I was driving all day yesterday so only just got round to looking again at what I did. Strangely I can't get it to work since I updated to the latest firmware released unless I use the dials to set the focus points but what I did previously was af, go to the screen, press the gear button where the lens would rack out and back to the point, press the first right hand button and it stored that point, then back out, af on second point, back, press the gear again and then the other right hand button to set that value. Now with this firmware it just goes back to the first focussed point again and only changes if I use the dials to go to the second point. I'm sure they will get it sorted out, it's a useful feature if it works! Others have said that the accuracy is not good but to be honest I just shot to see if the lens moved, I haven't checked how accurate it is.
But regardless of whether you (are able to) use the leaf shutter or focal plane shutter, I'd always recommend people to use a Phase One back (preferably CMOS) for timelapses if they are able to.
Also, with the second firmware release you have to set the XF AF Priority to "Release."
The simplest solution to the confusion, assign the 2nd Shutter to Auto Focus. Go to the Focus Stack Tool, press the 2nd Shutter to Auto Focus, switch the lens to MF and then back to AF, save value. done.
The method you made in the video is 100% correct if you want to use Half Press for Auto Focus. When you return to the tool, and press the "?" this will travel FROM and then back TO the last AF point the camera confirmed.
So, when you've said that sometimes the difference is dramatic it is more than likely because the last time you used Auto Focus it didn't CONFIRM an AF point. It may seem counter intuitive because you hear the camera lens "move" but it only moves FROM and then back TO the point you previously found. This is what I believe I could hear in your video... a lot of movement to find the AF point, enter the Focus Stack tool and then a quick "in/out" movement of the lens to verify that exact location is reached to allow saving.
Again... simplest solution for you and others, assign another button for Auto Focus. This way you can use Auto Focus within the Focus Stack tool.
*the conflict in the workflow you want to use is that the Half Press Shutter is designed to always exit any tool or menu and bring you directly to the main menu, ready to fire. This is described in the manual to always provide an "emergency" exit so you can fire the camera immediately when necessary and not worry about exiting menus to get back to the capture ready stage.
A little bit unintuitive but it works. I set the bottom 2nd shutter button to AF and was able to work through the sequence ok. The key thing is shifting AF on the lens to manual and then back to record the focus unit setting. You would expect that XF to record that value when you actually invoke AF but apparently that's too easy and only gets recorded when you shift the lens in and out of AF mode.
The intuitive way would be to auto focus on the far point and have the value show up and then press the far point in the focus stack (top button), then refocus via AF on the near point and have that value show up and assign it to near point (bottom button) without all of the AF->MF shenanigans.
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The clutching back from MF to AF seems to cause problems with the 55LS for me as when you switch back over from MF, to AF, the motor moves the focus off of the correct location. I have the older 55LS with the twist lever for MF to AF.
This did not seem to happen with the 35 LS. But I need to try that lens again.
The only way I can seem to get a good fix with the 55mm LS is to use the dials to get the fine focus while in AF mode and record the setting.
Hmm. I only tried it with the 35LS this morning. Will have to try the other lenses later.
1. Change camera settings so the rear button is not set to AF (in the PODAS workshop I attended the first thing they demonstrated was how to disable AF on the shutter and enable it with the rear button, guessing many photographers use it this way.
2. Perform AF on the near point. You may need to move to MF and AF and back. move to the Focus Stack screen and touch the gear button. The lens may or may not return to the correct point. If it doesnít, touch the shutter button and acquire focus again, then move back to the FS screen and touch the gear again. Assume eventually you will get the correct point set.
3. Repeat the process again for the far point. Again it may not work correctly so watch the lens closely to insure it is returning to the correct point, then set the far point.
4. Move back to the main screen and lock the mirror up so it doesnít slap between every exposure.
5. Go back to the FS screen and carefully depress the rear button since timer delay or vibration detect is not honored. There does seem to be some slight delay but it doesnít seem to be based on the current camera settings or vibration detect ... it may or may not be a long enough delay. It might be advisable to reshoot that particular point from the main screen to insure against camera vibrations from having to physically press this button.
6. Return the camera to your preferred setup.
I think for right now itís easier just to AF on the near point, compose , throw the camera in manual focus, and gradually rotate the lens to the far point or to infinity.
As it stands the tool is nice for those doing manual focus and live view. When my IQ3 100 comes in, I may find myself using it more often.
It would be nice if the FS tool simply honored all settings in the main capture screen and all buttons function as setup by the user. So move to the FS screen, autofocus the near or far point using whatever button allows this or manual focus with the dials (and a half shutter press doesnít flip back to the mains screen), set the point, focus the other point, set that point, then trip the sequence by any normal method. Timer delay and vibration detect honored just like from the main screen. Additionally the camera should be smart enough to know the mirror can stay up, and in the case of an LS lens, the FP shutter can stay open (if they engineered this into the new body), so vibrations are minimized.
Iíve sent these ideas to a couple of dealers, other than that Iím not sure how to get feedback to Phase.
As far as I can tell the camera uses the normal time delay when activating focus stacking. This means it only delays if you actually have a delay in the camera.
Can people say more about what lenses they use ? I tried it today with a 150LS Blue Ring with 600images and it worked perfectly every time. My 110LS however would even work at all with focus stacking. Have to check that out later at home.
Does anyone know what this means in theory?
"Our HAP-1 system ensures that we can grow, customize and accelerate autofocus to meet the needs of the worldís most demanding photographers. Improvements have been made to increase accuracy in low light conditions, ensure focus of various low contrast materials in even light, and improved precision when using the XF Camera System handheld with behavior changes initiated from the systems several accelerometers."
I have big problems with SK80LS and the autofocus. The focus shift though out the focusplane. Is this a common problem?
When i focustrim the 80mm for 1meter, it is out of focus from 1,35meter (+/-) and gets worse the longer the focalplane goes..
Yes, you are right Chris. Timer delay and vibration detect seem to be working now. (didn’t seem to work with the first release, but maybe the camera was so solid it just seemed that way because of vibration detect.
Mirror lockup keeps the mirror up for all exposures, but you have to move over to the mains screen and lock it up before triggering the sequence, otherwise it will return and go up for each shot. Seems unnecessary, so perhaps the next update will simply keep the mirror up automatically.
As far as AF, what I’ve noticed is if you AF on one point, touch the gear icon most of the time the camera will shift focus and back and most of the time seems to shift it back to the correct point. (although for some unexplained reason not 100% of the time) However, if you then AF on the other point, and touch the gear button, the camera seems to just refocus on the stored point - the two numbers will match.
Using the suggestion described earlier-setting secondary shutter button to AF seems to work most of the time. If I AF, set that point by touching the gear then storing the number, AF on the other point, then move the lens to manual and back and touch the gear button seems to work most of the time. Sometimes it did focus back on the previous point, but if I waited just a moment in MF then back to AF, touching the gear would then give me a new number, not send the lens back to the stored number. I think it advisable to set near point first because the action of moving the lens in and out of AF almost always slightly shifted focus for me (AF would make a slight adjustment) no matter how carefully I did it. Far point is probably a little less critical.
I think Graham mentioned something about recording the numbers, so I tried a couple of theoretical workflows assuming infinity was a desired point. It does seem the number for infinity stays constant even if the lens is removed, so if the image includes infinity you could AF on the near point, set that number, then manually dial in the infinity number and set that point. Tried that a few times and actually works pretty quickly and seems to be reliable.
I have tested all of the above with the Phase 75-150 (non LS, about 7 years old) and with the 40-80 LS. Both lenses operated as I’ve described when using the FS tool.
I don’t think any of this applies to those using manual focus/live view, the tool as is seems to be very functional for that (other than perhaps having to turn the dial a lot of turns if you need to get from very near focus to infinity).
I performed the firmware upgrade for my XF camera and also my IQ180 digital back just 3 days ago. I have been up in the mountains on a trip, and on the second day the digital back crashed, right when I was going to take a great pic!
Thanks to Capture Integration for taking my call after hours- good job guys. They verified that they are seeing the new software crash. Wow. My question is why would Phase One release a faulty software that would completely disable our cameras?
Now I have to figure out a fix- not easy to do on the road. CI apparently has a software fix.
Are you able to "go back" to an older firmware on your IQ180?
This old Dropbox link has the old IQ180 firmware in it. Look for the folder for the IQ180 for XF. I believe it is in green titled letters XF firmware for the IQ280, IQ260, IQ180... Hope that helps.
I haven't kept the Dropbox updated as I am now using the XF camera body with the new IQ3 100MP MFDB.
No, I cannot restore or reset the camera; it is completely frozen. I have been working with the technicians, but no luck. We tried the reset mechanism without any luck. What a bummer. Looks like I have to send it in for repair. Really bad news.
That is a bit alarming, Phase released feature set 2 and back firmware on one day, then a 2nd set of firmware the next day. It seems this 2nd release which was supposed to be some language fixes, is causing the crashes.
Did the firmware lock the XF or IQ180 or both?
If the IQ180 would not restore to the base release, via the reset on the back, this is a first. Since the IQ backs came out, there has always been the ability to get back to base firmware of the specific back basically that version of firmware is burned in. If it locked the 180, that reminds me of my P45+ and the firmware that was supposed to allow 1 hour exposures. That bricked my P45+.
Hopefully you will get it back soon and sorry to hear the trouble.
The crash is with the IQ180 back, the camera XF camera body works fine.
The restore unfortunately does not work to reset the firmware to a previous version. The digital screen remains gray, then the back just powers off spontaneously after about 5 seconds. I think Phase One should issue some type of software warning at this point.