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XF Feature Update 2, Capture One 9.1

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
What about " Redesign of IQ interface to look/feel more in line with XF interface" ? It doesnt show what this looks like. At this point I don't know if I even want to upgrade the XF or back firmware
You can see the new IQ interface in the video here:

That video also includes how to HIDE the new features if they are not relevant to your needs. Along with the "Simple" UI option (that hides all icons other than shutter-speed/aperture/ISO/meter) this can make sure your camera is as Contax-like as possible. You'll, of course, still gain the improvements in autofocus and other small performance tweaks.

By the way, I'm curious what, if any, changes, features, tools, or improvements you'd like to see with future firmware updates.
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
Apparently some of my frustration falls into the category of feature requests.

Selecting near and far points can be difficult if you don't have CMOS live view. Auto focus and the focus confirmation lights don't work when you're in focus stack mode so you have to focus by eye (not my most reliable process). I've tried switching to regular exposure mode, using auto-focus to select the focus distance, then switch back to focus-stack mode, switch the lens from auto to manual and then back to auto and then select the point. Seems like it should work but the lens doesn't return to the same selected focus distance according to the scale and the images don't seem sharp. I'd like to see the focus confirmation lights stay active and have the option to simply press an "auto-focus" button rather than trying to dial the focus distance based on focus motor control units.
Sounds like you're doing something out of order. If you follow the correct steps then you can establish front and back points by guess and check, autofocus confirmation, live view (mostly useful with CMOS), focus mask, or through the viewfinder, then assign those points to the focus stack tool. This makes it not only possible, but very accurate, to use the focus stacking with a CCD back. Again, if you're struggling with this consult with your dealer and they can help you find where you are going wrong.
 

DougDolde

Well-known member
By the way, I'm curious what, if any, changes, features, tools, or improvements you'd like to see with future firmware updates.
OK thanks for that video.

I don't have any suggestions really. I think it's a great camera and has improved my images. Most of that credit goes to the IQ180 and Schneider 40-80mm lens, but I really like using the waist level finder, I think it makes composing more natural for landscapes anyway.
 

Transposure

New member
most all these new features i probably won't use either, but nice to have. The xf autofocus is worth the upgrade alone (over the df). Profoto air sync with leaf shutter lenses----awesome! I'd love to see an update to allow adjusting profoto light output from the xf body too.

Ken
BIG DITTO on the Profoto Air Sync adjustments!
 

Bill Caulfeild-Browne

Well-known member
I have downloaded the new Firmware and am delighted with the focus stacking feature in particular. The other relatively minor change which I like is being able to access the XF directly from the back rather than going through the menu. Great time saver for me.

Now it's time to go play with the other new features!
 

gerald.d

Well-known member
A very impressive update.

I wonder whether the HDR and timelapse features can be combined?

With regards to timelapse, it would be extremely beneficial were Phase One to work with LRTimelapse to get LRTimelapse working with Capture One.

The IQ3 1000 is the only camera on the planet that can be used to create 12K timelapses, but without LRTimelapse integration, it can be a real pain to produce professional quality work.

Kind regards,


Gerald.
 

Wayne Fox

Workshop Member
I focus stack frequently so I was excited to see this new feature. However, it’s implementation is a little cumbersome and is time consuming enough to make it less useful.

Unless I’m missing something, it requires manual focus, so probably meaning live view (which means mainly for cmos backs). A little time consuming. My dream focus stacking feature (which seems easy in my mind to implement in any autofocus camera but I haven’t seen it done) would be to autofocus on the near or far point, confirm, then autofocus on the far point, and confirm. then set total exposures and possibly even turn on a “safety” feature which would capture one additional shot slight closer and further than your two points. compose the shot, and shoot the sequence.

I realize for macro work the current setup is probably more useful since autofocus isn’t very useful shooting macro focus stacks, but wondering if there are more people shooting landscape than macro, and those shooting serious macro are using automatic rails to move the camera. I think what I described would be useful to more. (IMHO)

Maybe when my new back arrives with CMOS live view I’ll try it more , but right now with the IQ3 80 I”m not sure I’ll bother. My current method works pretty good ...auto focus on the far point, note where the lens has positioned itself, autofocus the near point, move the ring to manual focus, compose and start shooting the sequence, moving focus in appropriate increments until I”m at or one shot past where the lens positioned itself when autofocusing the far point. If the far point is infinity (as it is with most of my work) I skip the first step, just autofocus the near point, and shoot the sequence to infinity, judging how many shots by how close the near point is.

One other thing I found, when shooting the sequence the camera doesn’t automatically lock the mirror up (which seem illogical, no reason for it to drop down). You can get around this by moving back to the main screen after setting up your 3 parameters, locking the mirror up, then moving back the focus stack tool and triggering the sequence.

Kudos to Phase for working on adding tools to the camera. Personally I find the Phase interface pretty simple (shoot with a sony for a while and you’ll want to slit your wrists ) and certainly most of the time I’m just in manual mode adjusting f stop and shutter speeds like I have for 40 years, but I do find occasion to use some of the tools, and the learning curve isn’t very steep.
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
Wayne, you can use the new focus stacking tool exactly as you describe but with th XF automatically dividing the scene into as many slices as you desire. Take another look and if you're struggling have your dealer step you through it.
 

etrump

Well-known member
Man, this is awesome stuff! I will use every bit of it. I'm feeling like a kid in a candy store.

Does anyone know if this update does anything to fix the whacky metering? It seems like it is never right in low light especially.

Most all these new features I probably won't use either, but nice to have. The XF autofocus is worth the upgrade alone (over the DF). Profoto Air Sync with leaf shutter lenses----awesome! I'd love to see an update to allow adjusting Profoto light output from the XF body too.

ken
 
M

mjr

Guest
I updated last night, probably stupidly as I'm in a hotel room in the middle of the Lofoten Islands with crap internet but you only live once! Spent the morning trying all the features out and although I may not use them all regularly, I love the fact that the system is being improved and releases are free, everything works really well! As above Wayne, I used focus stacking exactly as you want to use it, it's pretty easy to af front and rear points and let it do it's thing.

Overall, I think the XF is becoming a really useful tool, I was a little worried about accessing all the functionality but even though it's blowing a snow storm here and rather chilly, it's all easy to use with gloves on which is great.

Anyway, thanks for the update.

Mat
 
M

mjr

Guest
No more so than on any camera Doug, if you are going to fire off thousands of shots for a timelapse then they will obviously count towards what the manufacturer guarantees as shutter life but that's just the nature of shooting timelapse.

Mat
 

Paul2660

Well-known member
One of the neat basic features of the XF is that it has a TIMER!! (awesome feature), which all modern cameras should have, i.e. you can time a shot beyond 30".

A lot of timelaspe work, for at least astro shots, will be more like 2 minute shots or longer, so the wear on the shutter won't be that bad, but if you are wanting to create a timelaspe video from daylight work, then yes, you will put quite a lot of wear on the shutter, as most times these are a series of 5" or 10" shots over a long period of time.

For me, the 35mm DSLR or gopro even type cameras are better suited for timelaspe in daylight.

But for sure you can do it now, and since the daylight exposures most times are less than 10" all Phase One backs, CCD or CMOS could do this.

Great to see this added for sure.

Paul C
 

Wayne Fox

Workshop Member
As above Wayne, I used focus stacking exactly as you want to use it, it's pretty easy to af front and rear points and let it do it's thing.
interesting. While in focus stack mode, autofocusing is disabled for me, nothing I do triggers an autofocus. If I enable the half press of the shutter and try that, it moves back to the main capture screen mode and the camera focuses, but when I move back to focus stack the motor position is not noted in the display. enabling focus via the rear button doesn’t trigger autofocus (and is the button used to trigger the sequence.). No button press or anything else will actually cause the camera to autofocus.

Nothing in the video or the new version of the user manual describes triggering an autofocus while in the focus stack mode to allow registering one of the focus points, it just says focusing is done using the front and rear dials to adjust the focus.

Not sure what I’m missing.
 
M

mjr

Guest
Wayne

I just checked again, I focussed with the af to the close point, don't think this matters, flipped across to the stacking screen and saved that point as start point, then half press shutter to get back to main screen, used af to focus on far point, flipped back across to the stacking screen and set that point as the far point, selected the number of shots and pressed the rear button to start the process. Does that not work for you?

Mat
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
I just checked again, I focussed with the af to the close point, don't think this matters, flipped across to the stacking screen and saved that point as start point, then half press shutter to get back to main screen, used af to focus on far point, flipped back across to the stacking screen and set that point as the far point, selected the number of shots and pressed the rear button to start the process. Does that not work for you?
I think what Wayne is missing is that you do the AF (or other CCD friendly focus methods) outside the tool, and then flip over to the tool to save that AF point.
 

Transposure

New member
I discovered a small point relative to the use of these new tools within the XF.
I have my camera set to "back button focus". This is the way all of my cameras are set up. The XF tools are linked to the back button to initiate them. So, normally, with the focus under the shutter button, the rear button is free to initiate these functions. With back button focus, it is not. So, the functions do not work unless you return focus to the shutter button.

It is not a huge deal, but with the incredible programming versatility of this camera, one would think there would be a way to keep the back button focus and still use these tools. So, when I want to use the timer, the intervalometer or the focus stacking tool, I have to go into the menus and change the focus button from the back button to the shutter button, use the tool I want and then go back into the menus an change the focus to the back button again.

I haven't tried setting up two separate custom setups. That could speed things up by having Custom Setup 1 be back button focus and Custom Setup 2 be shutter button focus. I will have to try that.
 
M

mjr

Guest
Hi Ken

I have mine set up the same, rear button focus but don't do what you are doing with changing focus buttons, I just focus where i want and when I'm ready to do whatever program, stacking, bracketing, hdr, I swipe across and press rear button to start, I do all focussing before, then just go to the program to set parameters and activate. Might be worth trying that way?

Edit. It sounds like you are deciding you want to use a function, going to it and then wanting to set the camera up whilst inside the function, I am just setting up the camera to do what I want and then at the last minute going to the function to activate, if that makes sense!
Mat
 

Transposure

New member
Hi Ken

I have mine set up the same, rear button focus but don't do what you are doing with changing focus buttons, I just focus where i want and when I'm ready to do whatever program, stacking, bracketing, hdr, I swipe across and press rear button to start, I do all focussing before, then just go to the program to set parameters and activate. Might be worth trying that way?

Edit. It sounds like you are deciding you want to use a function, going to it and then wanting to set the camera up whilst inside the function, I am just setting up the camera to do what I want and then at the last minute going to the function to activate, if that makes sense!
Mat
Mat,
Thanks! I tried it and it works. However, a couple questions..
  1. Focus Stacking: So, let me make sure I have this right. You are basically setting up your first focus point limit as if you were going to take a single shot, but you then go into the focus stacking tool and hit either top or bottom silver button to register that focus. Does it matter which one? Far point = mountains? Close point = flower? Then, you exit the focus stacking tool and focus on the second focus point as if taking a single shot, go back into the tool and hit the opposite silver button to register the second focus limit. Then hit the rear button the initiate. Make sense?
  2. I have noticed when hitting one of the silver buttons, the opposite limit is set (next to the other silver button). Is this because I am not paying attention to close and far focus limits?
Ken
 
M

mjr

Guest
No problem Ken, I have packed it away now but will go see the exact process I used, I am almost positive you are right on point 1, i believe that once you have recorded the 2 points of start and stop, i think the camera puts the the right way round based on which point is closer, will check though!

Mat
 
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