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Best hasselblad v digital back for around 2000€?

vincentbihler

New member
Hey there,
I would like to enter in the digital medium format and would like to know your opinions about 2nd hands digital backs for hasselblad v series for a 2000€ budget. Is there anything good at that price? Is there really significant improvements over, let's say, portra 160 when used for portraits, landscape, studio...
Thanks for your help and time!
Vincent
 

torger

Active member
It can be quite hard to find backs for €2000 as people tend to keep them on the shelf if there's no longer much value left in them.

The 37x37mm CFV-16 comes into mind, but if you just find someone selling you could get a 4:3 22 megapixel 39x37mm sensor (same Kodak sensor different size) like a Hasseblad CF-22 for that price. Otherwise you could look into Phase One backs with V-mounts, like the P25 and P25+, the latter is usually more expensive though.

If there's a significant improvement over Portra 160 is a matter of taste, I can't answer that.
 

JeRuFo

Active member
I doubt you'll get anything that is significantly better than Portra for that price. You're not going to beat it in terms of resolution or dynamic range, possibly only in convenience. If all you want is better quality I would suggest investing in a better scanner/scan service.

I don't know how strict your budget is, but don't forget to factor in extra costs like cables and possibly software. Plus, make sure you research whether the back you're looking to buy still can get serviced etc. (if your battery dies, does that mean the end?) If not, the investment becomes more of a gamble obviously.
 

rayyen

Member
I used to be analog Hassel fans.
But I fall in love with Alpa and my P1 P25+.
I've been using IQ2 back for a few years, until recently, I buy back a P25+ from a good friend on this forum.
Now I'm looking for a good Hassel V body.
Is it better than Portra? I love Portra, digital is digital, it can't render like analog but it does give you flexibility to tune picture in anyway you want in LR.
My humble experience.
 
The best Hasselblad back in this case might be a Pentax... All your Hasselblad lenses will fit on a Pentax 645D/Z with a simple adapter, and they perform just as well as the backs do. Better actually in many ways. Focus confirmation is an understated gem actually. As someone who spent a few days with the CFV50c back, I can tell you that the charm wears off once you start realizing how hard it is to focus on those screens. I also love that you don't have to see crop lines. The view in the finder is your whole image, much easier to compose handheld IMO, and shoot verticals. If you can push your budget a 645Z will give you live view shooting, which is pretty amazing on a tripod.
 

vincentbihler

New member
Hello everyone ! Thanks a lot for all your answers. It's quite clear now in my mind... And I just have to take a decision ! Maybe I could indeed try to find a better scanner than my well worn V700.

Vincent
 

archivue

Active member
Hello everyone ! Thanks a lot for all your answers. It's quite clear now in my mind... And I just have to take a decision ! Maybe I could indeed try to find a better scanner than my well worn V700.

Vincent
i still have my Aptus 22 V, they are selling for about 2500$ now

For best performance, you need to use it at 25 iso.

When i bought it, i have stopped using film and scanners... but it depends on your shooting style, and type of print as well !
 

Mr.Gale

Member
Have you tried a digital back on your Hasselblad? If not, I would recommend it before you buy. A few years ago I bought a P30 for my 500C/M and I had a horrible time focusing it. Some times the images would be sharp but just as often they were not. I missed too many shots and after doing everything I could think of to insure good focus, I finally gave up sold all my V cameras and lenses and bought into the H system. More than your budget but Hasselblad is having a sale on their CPO camera. http://hasselbladbron.com/cpo.pdf

Mr.Gale
 

jlm

Workshop Member
not my experience; will add a few shots with various backs on 200 series V cameras.
mostly handheld:
60MM LENS, 205FCC, prism finder, CFV50c back:


same rig:


and the CFV16: 205TCC; probably the 80mm lens, tripod:


and the 39mpx blad back, don't remember the model number,with the 40mm IF, 205TCC:


and:
 
Last edited:

ErikKaffehr

Well-known member
Hi,

Focusing depends on a lot of stuff.

Personally, I use a PM-5 viewfinder with a Zeiss 3X monocular:


This is what different options resolve visually (red: PM5, bluu: Hartblei magnifying viewfinde, yellow: PM5 + Zeiss 3X)
Screen Shot 2016-05-26 at 20.51.11.jpg

All resolve far below sensor resolution, so focusing is based image contrast and not pure resolution.

Best regards
Erik





Have you tried a digital back on your Hasselblad? If not, I would recommend it before you buy. A few years ago I bought a P30 for my 500C/M and I had a horrible time focusing it. Some times the images would be sharp but just as often they were not. I missed too many shots and after doing everything I could think of to insure good focus, I finally gave up sold all my V cameras and lenses and bought into the H system. More than your budget but Hasselblad is having a sale on their CPO camera. http://hasselbladbron.com/cpo.pdf

Mr.Gale
 

Mr.Gale

Member
I agree, Hasselblad would not be selling backs if no one (except me) couldn't focus using them. The only reason I said anything is MY experience using a P30 on a 500 C/M was too unpredictable and I think it would be wise for the OP to try a back on HIS camera to make sure it will work for him.

Mr.Gale

This is the set-up I was using on my camera for focus:





 

torger

Active member
Manual focusing is a personal thing, some can do it, some have a harder time. I manually focus my Linhof Techno, but I really need that 20x jewelry loupe I'm using which is higher magnification than any of those listed above. I've tried with a 10x and it's hit and miss for me, while there are others that can do it. So it's how good eyes you have, practice of course, and talent for that specific task. I think that just like not everyone can be a watchmaker, not everyone can focus precisely with low magnification loupes on a ground glass.

And not the least -- expectations of the exactness of the result. When everyone was focusing manually and shot film, noone was pixel-peeping eye lashes.
 

ErikKaffehr

Well-known member
Hi,

Check the image below, pretty obviously the image on the left is much sharper:
Screen Shot 2016-05-28 at 08.12.21.jpg

It could be that a better lens was used, or possibly the lens on the left was focused better? As it happens, neither was the case.

The right image was the one focused correctly, but intended focus was in a different spot:
Screen Shot 2016-05-28 at 08.14.53.jpg

I am somewhat surprised I missed focus on the A7rII, as I was using 12X magnified live view. The building was something like 15-20m from the tripod and focal length was 45 mm at f/8 on the Sony A7rII. The Hasselblad image was Distagon 60/3.5 at f/11 (I think). In this case, focus on the Hasselblad was done using the split image on the window frames, with a total of 9X magnification.

Best regards
Erik


Manual focusing is a personal thing, some can do it, some have a harder time. I manually focus my Linhof Techno, but I really need that 20x jewelry loupe I'm using which is higher magnification than any of those listed above. I've tried with a 10x and it's hit and miss for me, while there are others that can do it. So it's how good eyes you have, practice of course, and talent for that specific task. I think that just like not everyone can be a watchmaker, not everyone can focus precisely with low magnification loupes on a ground glass.

And not the least -- expectations of the exactness of the result. When everyone was focusing manually and shot film, noone was pixel-peeping eye lashes.
 

ErikKaffehr

Well-known member
Hi,

Check the image below, pretty obviously the image on the left is much sharper:
View attachment 118868

It could be that a better lens was used, or possibly the lens on the left was focused better? As it happens, neither was the case.

The right image was the one focused correctly, but intended focus was in a different spot:
View attachment 118869

I am somewhat surprised I missed focus on the A7rII, as I was using 12X magnified live view. The building was something like 15-20m from the tripod and focal length was 45 mm at f/8 on the Sony A7rII. The Hasselblad image was Distagon 60/3.5 at f/11 (I think). In this case, focus on the Hasselblad was done using the split image on the window frames, with a total of 9X magnification, prism finder magnifies 3X and a Zeiss 3X monocular was used for additional 3x magnification.

Best regards
Erik


Manual focusing is a personal thing, some can do it, some have a harder time. I manually focus my Linhof Techno, but I really need that 20x jewelry loupe I'm using which is higher magnification than any of those listed above. I've tried with a 10x and it's hit and miss for me, while there are others that can do it. So it's how good eyes you have, practice of course, and talent for that specific task. I think that just like not everyone can be a watchmaker, not everyone can focus precisely with low magnification loupes on a ground glass.

And not the least -- expectations of the exactness of the result. When everyone was focusing manually and shot film, noone was pixel-peeping eye lashes.
 

jerome_m

Member
Manual focusing is a personal thing, some can do it, some have a harder time. I manually focus my Linhof Techno, but I really need that 20x jewelry loupe I'm using which is higher magnification than any of those listed above. I've tried with a 10x and it's hit and miss for me, while there are others that can do it. So it's how good eyes you have, practice of course, and talent for that specific task. I think that just like not everyone can be a watchmaker, not everyone can focus precisely with low magnification loupes on a ground glass.
Manual focussing in a viewfinder requires good hand-eye coordination. The method is the following:
-focus approximately
-then turn the focus ring back and forth until you have a feeling of similar defocus on either sides
-move the ring in the middle.

Without a strong loupe, one cannot estimate best focus, but one can estimate if defocus is the same when turning the ring back and forth. It is a dynamic process.

The cameras which focus by contrast focus only do it exactly in the same way. On the slow ones, one can actually see the back and forth wobbling.
 
As I understand there is no way of shimming with digital backs for the old V bodies.

So, maybe, the problems, some users have with focusing, have to do with that?
 

ErikKaffehr

Well-known member
Hi,

On the V-lenses there is very little barrel rotation around optimal focus, certainly less than one mm.

Many lenses don't pop in and out of focus.

Adding to that there may be focus shift.

What I see is that the split image is dead accurate, if used with a smooth, high contrast edge. Flagpoles and lamp posts are my favourites, for focusing, that is.

Tree trunks are much more difficult to focus.

Best regards
Erik


Manual focussing in a viewfinder requires good hand-eye coordination. The method is the following:
-focus approximately
-then turn the focus ring back and forth until you have a feeling of similar defocus on either sides
-move the ring in the middle.

Without a strong loupe, one cannot estimate best focus, but one can estimate if defocus is the same when turning the ring back and forth. It is a dynamic process.

The cameras which focus by contrast focus only do it exactly in the same way. On the slow ones, one can actually see the back and forth wobbling.
 

Nick-T

New member
As I understand there is no way of shimming with digital backs for the old V bodies.

So, maybe, the problems, some users have with focusing, have to do with that?
You can shim the focussing screen.

Best way is too test focussing on a ruler running away from camera at 45degrees to see if something is out of whack.
 
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