Tech Camera Long Exposure?

[dnercesian]

I hate myself for asking this here, but I have obviously not been googling the subject properly. All of my gear arrived today from Capture Integration and I have been having a blast getting familiar with everything. The most fun so far has been getting better acquainted with the Cambo WRS 5000. The only snag that has me a little confused is the long exposure.

I tried Bulb and counted in my head, which actually worked just fine, but what I wanted to know was if that was the only way to shoot longer exposures or is there a way to actually set an exposure time of, lets say 10 seconds. This 32mm Rodie is literally the first LF lens I have ever owned, so yeah, a bit new at this.

 

[Christopher]

So far it's not really possible. There is bulb and time. Only difference is bulb has to be hold down and time is pressing the release twice. (Once to start and once to finish.)

I still don't get why there aren't any modern copal "Timers" cast be that Hard to make. But as far as I know there are no modern versions.

It's a shame because with CMOS back it would cut down black frame times a lot. As especially in the 2-15s range the back only does one if the exposure is different or a other bigger factor (tempt sure) changes.

 

[dchew]

The IQ150 will count for you, just make sure the screen is active before you press the shutter so you can see the timer.

For 10+ seconds I would use T instead of Bulb, but either works. For longer times I use my iPhone timer, set it 10-20 seconds less than I want. Then when the iPhone goes off I set down my coffee (or beer), run back over to the camera and watch the back timer until it hits the right time. Probably looks funny to passers-by, but a technical camera looks funny anyway.

Dave

 

[voidshatter]

The best way to do it is to use T mode and iPhone timer.

 

[Jamgolf]

++ T mode.

On Rodenstock 32 webpage
There is mention of Copal 0 and Rodenstock eShutter 0 - I wonder what that eShutter is?
May be that is what you are asking about.

 

[Jeffrey]

I shot for 4 days at Silo City in Buffalo, NY using my Cambo WRS-5000, the new Phase 100 megapixel back, and Rodenstock 40mm and 70 mm lenses. Terribly difficult lighting conditions. Many images were 45 second exposures. Absolutely no problems. I used the "T" setting. On the back there is a timer display to let you know how long the shutter is open. One click on the cable release to open the shutter, another click to close the shutter. I admit the first day my exposure times were a series of experiments. The next 3 days were like riding a bicycle in that I pretty well knew how long the exposure needed to be. Some of the rooms were nearly dark, so to focus I used a small pocket sized LED flashlight that I shined on the scene and then focused. Otherwise focusing would have been impossible. The new back is absolutely magic for long exposures. Next month I'm off to a remote part of the world to shoot landscapes starting long before sunrise and then shooting well into the night. The exercise in Buffalo gave me the experience to have no concerns when shooting in nearly impossible light conditions. Oh yes! My ISO setting? ISO 100. There is no need to crank up the ISO. The images? Tack sharp to the point you say "Oh my gosh!"

So, get out and shoot in nearly dark conditions and experiment. You'll soon be "riding a bike" in knowing what you need to do for exposure timing. Good luck!

 

[GrahamWelland]

Ditto to Jeffrey/Dave Chew with my IQ150 (and tbh my IQ160/260 before it). Use T on the shutter and a remote (my preference these days being Nikon AR-3 - good, relatively inexpensive so no problem having plenty of spares or not sobbing when you lose one, or in one case 2x nice Ebony releases in the same week - those suckers seem to slither off like a snake in the grass when you drop them - I put bright tape on them now). Use the display on the IQ back or I'll use an analog watch with a second hand. The reality is that once you get into true long exposures it really doesn't make any difference if it's 29 seconds vs 32 seconds etc.

Not sure what back you have but the non-CMOS Phase backs had what has to be one of the DUMBEST features that you couldn't turn off - shoot longer than 10s and you'll get a nanny warning on the LCD about how you should be using long exposure mode ISO140 and leaves it there so that you can no longer see the count down and obviously you can't dismiss unless you touched the screen. Doh! Ok I guess if it's a low light exposure but a total pain in the rear if you actually WANT a long exposure at base ISO.