Aptus 8 for jewelry photography

[TsurTriger]

Today we're using mainly Sony A7RII and I pleased with the image quality (in 99% of the time). But, I'm not 100% pleased with the angle of view I get with our lenses (SK's and Rodie's lenses).
Sometime, we have the lack of wider AOV but we find, most of the time, a way to solve it (if it with stitching or other manipulation).

For most of our work, no doubt that the Sony is robust and very good camera to use (although I hated it at the beginning as a Canon user I had to change my workflow and learn the new buttons order). But, sometime I ask myself "does a medium format will gives me more than I have now?"
I really don't know to answer to that question because I never had a MF back.

I can rent a MF back for a day, but I will need to spend too much money on adapters that I might not need in the future.

We use a lot of T&S and perspective correction (rear T&S + R&F) when we do advertising photography and expensive jewelry.

Does MF can gives me more?
How is the Aptus 8 as a back for T&S?
I don't want, and I don't think it the right time for expensive backs.

*Our main system is Ultima 23D/35

 

[MrSmith]

i guess i’m in a similar place as yourself but at a slightly different magnification level (watches and still-life)
for me i just cant see the point in moving money from my comfort fund to an MFD fund for no increase in productivity or revenue generation.
i too use digitars/A7rII with an Actus
i was looking at quality semi-wide 40-50mm solution and will solve that conundrum at some point but the reality is i dont need that focal length enough to open the wallet. i make do with apo-rodagon enlarging lenses that have the quality just not the image circle for big movements like the 60/80/120 digitars

that said i will probably stick a back/mirrorless MFD on the actus once there is a 65+mpixel solution that works well and shows a significant leap in quality but isn’t 30k. TBH the only thing i want to see is better gradations round specular highlights on silver/gold/chrome where the file loses colour definition or gets a colour halo from the neighbouring area. thing is i see this on MFD files i get in for retouch too.

i cant see what advantage a 40mp back thats 6 years old is going to give you?

 

[TsurTriger]

Yes MrSmith, I bought the Sony A7R2 after your recommendation (and a friend who also has a studio for photography and moved from D800E to A7R [ and then to Ver2]).

first of all, until now I didn't buy any medium format because I didn't find any reason to spend so much money on it. On the other hand, I think MF can gives more (?):
Bigger pixel -> better IQ (at low IS)
More "flexible" lenses (more AOV with longer focal length)

I really can't tell. I think the IQ be better?

 

[MrSmith]

Yes MrSmith, I bought the Sony A7R2 after your recommendation (and a friend who also has a studio for photography and moved from D800E to A7R [ and then to Ver2]).

first of all, until now I didn't buy any medium format because I didn't find any reason to spend so much money on it. On the other hand, I think MF can gives more (?):
Bigger pixel -> better IQ (at low IS)
More "flexible" lenses (more AOV with longer focal length)

I really can't tell. I think the IQ be better?

well the pixel pitch will be lower and the resolving power of the lens will not be pushed as much but you will lose depth of field (more stacking) and amount of shift. i’m not convinced the shadows will be any cleaner but you may feel the tonal gradations are different/cleaner. i find the digitars are fine up until f11.5 and usually shoot between 8-11.5 so MFD may mean bigger stacks (presuming you do them for jewellery)

I think if the switch to MFD is to be worthwhile it would have to be a significant jump in file size (80mp and up) or a significant gain with particular lens use. i.e allowing a better wide angle solution or a particular macro lens or focal length.
thats purely from my perspective. your situation is slightly different.

 

[TsurTriger]

That was my feeling too.
Maybe that is why, until now, I didn't add MF along the DSLR equipment.

 

[algrove]

If you rent try the XF+3100 DB along with the 120macro and then focus stack. Saw a good tutorial on using that exact setup from CI. Might be worth a look. Just a thought.

 

[dougpeterson]

Bear in mind we only know what you wrote here...

You didn't mention where you are located, but the answer to me is quite simple: work with a dealer to test a couple different backs in their studio. This is a gratis service we do all the time, and which is, quite literally, the job of your local dealer.

But my gut feeling is you should be looking at a CMOS back like the Credo 50, IQ150, IQ250, IQ350, IQ3 100, or the just released IQ1 100mp, or you should keep using your small-format camera.

CCD backs still have a near and dear place in my heart, and are still exceptional tools for some kinds of photography, but view camera based still life photography (because of the limitations of CCD Live View) is not one of those kinds of photography.

 

[TsurTriger]

I located in Israel. As far as I know, MF backs arent so popular here. So I don't believe that I can test them at local dealers. I guess they special ordered only by request.