Going long with XF

[weldonbrewster]

Can anyone share their experiences with the Phase One x2 teleconverter? I have a XF/IQ180 combo and a 150mm f3.5 blue ring. What is the effective f stop after conversion? How much of a loss in quality? Is it hard to keep it stable, i.e. is extra support necessary on lens?

As a cheaper option I was thinking about the Mamiya 300mm APO f4.5. If the Mamiya is strongly supported does it have sharp images with vibration delay? Which of the options would have better image quality?

Thanks,

 

[Don Libby]

Weldon, I have been using a 240LS and 2x for a couple years now beginning with the DF and 180 combo and now with the XF and IQ1-100 combo.

Attaching the 2x to the 240 makes it a 480 which in my experience has been just as sharp as without it attached; that's the good news. Attaching the 2x makes the lens package very heavy as well as very slow with minimum at f/9 plus you loose auto focus.

The extra weight can be worked out by using RRS long lens bracket which helps distribute the weight on tripod. Speaking of which you can forget using this handheld.

I've used this combo mainly shooting wildlife and have had no issue with f/9 while I was using the 180; now that I have the 1-100 I can use a better combination of ISO to change the f/stop as well as shutter speeds. Using the 180 I found I had to experiment on site to find the sweet spot for a combination of ISO and shutter speeds while keeping it at f/9 to f/11.

Manual focus - I've found the manual focus much easier with the XF.

Add everything up and I'd say the 240 and 2x is very near to being an excellent combination. I'd caution that you should get it today and expect to have it master by tomorrow for any serious shooting as you'll need to get some experience using it first as well as get your workflow perfected. I'd also caution against using this without any type of long lens support bracket as it become very top/front heavy and susceptible to vibrations.

Hope this helps

Don

 

[ejpeiker]

What is the effective f stop after conversion?

A 2x converter will always double the f-number of whatever lens is attached so your 150mm f/3.5 lens will become a 300mm f/7 lens/TC combo.

 

[algrove]

My experiences with either the 150/3.5 or the 240 is easy to MF and sharp sharp sharp. Yes I use the RRS setup like Don which works well on my RRS very sturdy 33L tripod+ cube.

 

[bab]

Don
When using a long lens w/w/o a long lens bracket in combination with a ball head does the ball head always cause vibrations? Should the ball head be eliminated from the tripod?
I ask because my current set up includes self leveling base, then ball head and then RRS L bracket this seams to vibrate more with my heavy lenses and I think the weak point is either my RRS L bracket ( in vertical/portrait position the bend in the bracket is the weak point for vibrations) or the steam (coming from the ball up to the clamp plate) on my Arca Swiss ball head. I know I see the camera vibrate when touch it takes several seconds to settle. What I don't see is the vibration minimal as it may be when shutter is released by cable or self timer, but with a load of glass I think my set up is causing vibrations?

Any sujestions would be appreciated!

Thanks

 

[ejpeiker]

This is what Phase One recommends and since going to it on both my 40-80 and 75-150 (both the heavier blue ring lenses), I have seen a marked improvement in vibration translated to my IQ3-100 photos especially in those images taken with a slower shutter speed or in windy/breezy conditions:
Phase One/Mamiya 645DF+ Large Lens Rail

 

[Paul2660]

That rig looks just like the RRS long lens rail kit. I wonder if Phase/RRS worked out a deal?

Back to the issue, long glass, MF, Vibration.

I realized just today, that there are some situations where MF/long glass just won't work. I was on a tripod, D4 geared head, smart flex L bracket--with the Older Mamiya 75-150. The wind was blowing around 20mph gusting to what I have to believe was 25 to 30mph as it was moving me at times. The wind was constant and never really dropped below 15mph. It was very clear to me while attempting to focus via Live View just how much vibration was happening as I basically was never really able to get a clear image to focus on, due to the movement. Capturing a image was really a guess as the vibration seismograph on the XF, just ran out to the max time, then fired, net it never found a time when movement was not happening. I have noticed that the RRS carbon fiber tripod I use, is susceptible to vibration due to wind and I should have taken a different tripod. The only real thing that would have worked during this shoot IMO was either lens vibration reduction (like used with Canon or Nikon) or sensor stabilization as used by Sony. I don't see the sensor stabilization coming to a digital back, (would be nice) and I can't imagine the cost of the 240LS, if Phase One added VR to the actual lens.

With the advent of the ES on the IQ100, my long glass exposures have improved dramatically. Both with the 240 LS and 75-150, very sharp across the frame captures. Independent of shutter speed. But today, with the wind really blowing and never letting up, I just gave up with the long glass, and pulled out the Fuji and 100-400. No problems there.

I have carried the RRS long glass rail system in the past, but on this trip I chose not to carry it as it's a considerable amount of weight.

On a previous trip, with the 240LS, I was able to capture several great shots of the moon, just with the D4 head and smart flex bracket, and the ES shutter.

On this trip, the movement was really extreme. No problems with the 35mm or 55mm, and I was able to focus Live view with them with no problems. But once I got to the long glass, the issues overcame me.

Paul Caldwell

 

[ejpeiker]

That rig looks just like the RRS long lens rail kit. I wonder if Phase/RRS worked out a deal?

According to a friend that works for Phase in Denmark, they had input into the design

I realized just today, that there are some situations where MF/long glass just won't work. I was on a tripod, D4 geared head, smart flex L bracket--with the Older Mamiya 75-150. The wind was blowing around 20mph gusting to what I have to believe was 25 to 30mph as it was moving me at times.

At least with your IQ100, you have a realistic option of upping the ISO to get you a faster shutter speed...

 

[Bill Caulfeild-Browne]

On the odd occasion where wind has been a factor I find using a bean bag is better than a tripod - if you have something to rest on. All my polar bear pictures (see Fun with MF) were with the 240 mm hand-held with a bean bag over a window sill. Of course, live view is impossible, as is ES. I use the FP shutter (less delay) and high iso's (400-800 typically.

 

[Hausen]

I shoot LE mainly here on the windy Island of NZ. I carry a large golf umbrella and can often be seen with a BNW Titleist shielding my camera for my preferred 4m exposure.

 

[weldonbrewster]

Thank you all for your input. Sounds like the teleconverter and lens support is the way to go. I do like the Mary Poppins umbrella idea too

 

[GrahamWelland]

Possibly the biggest contribution to sharpness for me with long XF lenses has been from using the XF/IQ3 100, 300/4.5 and electronic shutter & vibration release combo. However, if the wind is up then even this can't help.

 

[Don Libby]

Don
When using a long lens w/w/o a long lens bracket in combination with a ball head does the ball head always cause vibrations? Should the ball head be eliminated from the tripod?
I ask because my current set up includes self leveling base, then ball head and then RRS L bracket this seams to vibrate more with my heavy lenses and I think the weak point is either my RRS L bracket ( in vertical/portrait position the bend in the bracket is the weak point for vibrations) or the steam (coming from the ball up to the clamp plate) on my Arca Swiss ball head. I know I see the camera vibrate when touch it takes several seconds to settle. What I don't see is the vibration minimal as it may be when shutter is released by cable or self timer, but with a load of glass I think my set up is causing vibrations?

Any sujestions would be appreciated!

Thanks

Using a long lens (in my case the 240) without bracket has never caused a problem for me. The only issue I've encountered is attaching the 2x and not using a bracket as the lens becomes very front heavy as there isn't a tripod ring on the lens.

I used to use a Cube but sold it shortly after selling my tech camera last year and have since reverted back to a ballhead. I routinely set the mirror up as well as vibration release then using a cable will take the shot; these 3-things will "normally" reduce problems with vibrations so long as it isn't super windy. If I'm shooting in a very windy area then I'll forgo the cable and count on the mirror up/vibration modes to work. In the end I'd rather try and fai than fail by not trying...