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Arca d4 clamp question

vjbelle

Well-known member
The glue was swtiched about 1.5 years ago, and you run the risk of damage to either the clamp or the D4 body. I am assuming Precision Camera is heating up the screw or has a solvent to allow it to turn. The glue used now is stronger than lock tight red.

As you mention, it used to be a simple fix, I guess Arca choose to add the glue or whatever it is so to prevent the changes in the field? Anyone's guess. But the screw is way too tight to remove without some assistance.

Paul Caldwell
Paul..... I have a cube which is about 2 years ago and 'Gently' heated the clamp bolt with a blow torch and easily got it out. I believe heat is the only way to soften the 'loctite' or similar compound. I didn't heat it very much - I could have measured it but didn't.

Victor
 

rriley

Member
For those who've used both, how does the D4 compare to the RRS BH-55 in use, fit and finish, and durability? I understand that the geared D4 is...well...geared.

Joe
The D4 is equivalent to the BH55 in fit and finish but, of course, geared, which adds considerable functionality particularly with heavier equipment.
 

rriley

Member
Paul..... I have a cube which is about 2 years ago and 'Gently' heated the clamp bolt with a blow torch and easily got it out. I believe heat is the only way to soften the 'loctite' or similar compound. I didn't heat it very much

Victor
The currently used "glue" is different than the material that was used two years ago. I previously had no problem in removing the clamp but recently I tried to remove a clamp using a 3200w heat gun without success. Precision Camera is an Arca dealer so they know what to use and how to use it. I am guessing that they have a way to quickly apply the correct level of heat to the specific area needed to remove the clamp.
 

vjbelle

Well-known member
First of all anyone should take into account rriley's post and maybe not try anything. But, for me I would always try to apply some heat first before resorting to Precision Camera. I have had some experience with getting locktite bolts loosened which is why I wasn't hesitant to try with my cube. I recommend a blowtorch because the heat can be directed to a very specific area (the head of the bolt). I kept the flame at about a 2 inch distance from the bolt for 10 seconds. At that point I tried to loosen the bolt and it came free. If it hadn't I would try another 10 second application but that would probably be it. Its important to keep the heat directed precisely on the head of the bolt. Hope this helps for anyone wanting to try......

Victor
 

rriley

Member
I think the best solution to the many problems with the Arca fliplock is to simply order the d4 with the "Classic Knob Quick Release - Geared". They work pretty well and if you don't like this screw type you can always switch to the RRS.
 

Chipcarterdc

New member
I think the best solution to the many problems with the Arca fliplock is to simply order the d4 with the "Classic Knob Quick Release - Geared". They work pretty well and if you don't like this screw type you can always switch to the RRS.
Right: that's the version I have.
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
I have used a BH-55 for years and would like to try the geared D4. I appreciate your response.
Joe,

I'm in the same boat, and have owned and used the BH-55 for many many years. As mentioned, they are different beasts and I'd describe them slightly differently in that you are comparing a universal fast ballhead vs a geared/non-geared gimbal head. The D4 is a somewhat hybrid of a head compared to the CUBE in so far as you have the ability to release the locks and rapidly move the camera on the axis and lock it, but then apply the precision of gearing to accurately set the position of the camera with fine precision. I actually prefer using my D4 vs the BH55 (or any ball head), and also vs the CUBE.

Torger put together a pretty decent review here: https://www.ludd.ltu.se/~torger/photography/arca-swiss-d4-review.html
 

Paul2660

Well-known member
+1 to Graham's comments. Once you go geared you will never go back. Amazing amount of control.

Paul Caldwell
 

Paul2660

Well-known member
Hi Joe

That is good news, is yours the newer style that has the gearing for panning also? Was announced at kina, but I have yet to hear anything from users yet.

It's a great head, love the fact that you can make the fast gross movements by releasing the lock knobs and then fine turn it with the gearing.

Paul Caldwell
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
The d4 is a sweet tripod head. I owned a non-geared d4 briefly but couldn't bond with it. This head has won my heart. :thumbup:

Joe
It only takes a short while to get into a system where you remember which knob & lock works on which axis. Hmm, scratch that, until you always orient the head / camera body the same way on the clamp, you'll be forever adjusting the wrong control :facesmack::facesmack::ROTFL:
 

dchew

Well-known member
Yeah don't do what I do and switch back and forth between the D4 and the Cube.

Constant cursing. Tourette's Tripod Syndrome.

Dave
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
Now I know what I'm afflicted with. I too have Tourette's Tripod Head Syndrome! :grin:

Indeed swapping between the Cube and D4 is an exercise in random knob twiddling at times. :facesmack:

Thanks Dave.
 

rriley

Member
Now I know what I'm afflicted with. I too have Tourette's Tripod Head Syndrome! :grin:

Indeed swapping between the Cube and D4 is an exercise in random knob twiddling at times. :facesmack:

Thanks Dave.
I like the knobs on the D4 but the Cube has more precise and more extreme movements available if needed. This means that we all need to have both!
 

pesto

Active member
As the one who started this thread I should follow through and say that I was easily able to return my d4 and have since received a Cube with the classic knob quick release. I can not wait to get out and work with it. Thanks to all who responded and were so very helpful and to Chris Snipes and Capture Integration for making this a hassel free event.

Douglas.
 

rriley

Member
Freshly motivated by all these Arca clamp posts I grabbed my more recently purchased Cube and my Porter Cable 3200 watt heat gun and went out to my workbench. The allen wrench screw on the Arca clamp was filled with a brown substance that softened nicely with 2 or 3 minutes of heat. I picked the residue out of the wrench hole, fitted a wrench and "Voila" out came the screw (which also had evidence of adhesive on it's threads). I wire brushed the adhesive out of the threads and used the same screw to attach a RRS clamp. Less than 10 minutes with a heat gun, wrench and wire brush and now the perfect combination of the Cube and the RRS clamp. Next stop, the D4!
 

rriley

Member
Final Word: I received a new D4 a week ago and yesterday replaced the Arca clamp with a RRS clamp by simply unscrewing the Arca clamp screw. It was not secured by anything that I could detect and did not require any heat.
 

hcubell

Well-known member
Final Word: I received a new D4 a week ago and yesterday replaced the Arca clamp with a RRS clamp by simply unscrewing the Arca clamp screw. It was not secured by anything that I could detect and did not require any heat.
Which RRS clamp?
Thanks.
 

rriley

Member
Which RRS clamp?
Thanks.
I used the B2-LR-II. The B2-LLR-is the largest one and it partly obstructs the upper pan control on the clamp. The LR-II is the next smaller one and there is a bit of obstruction but for me it is not a problem since there is also a panning control on the base. There are more clamp versions available but the dimensions are not shown on the web site and probably one of the smaller ones will not have any obstruction at all but I like the size of the LR-II and the minor blockage, as a practical matter, is not an issue as mentioned.
 

RodK

Active member
Just some more info:
The one thing to be aware of when changing QRs is that some replacement QRs are different thicknesses. This includes the 3 we offer. So each has a different length bolt/screw.
So the screw length is important. Too long and it may go so deep it may damage an internal part, also voiding your warranty, and too short a screw, and it may not be as sturdy as it should be.
Having Precision Camera Works do the conversion assures your warranty is still intact.
They are only authorized Arca-Swiss repair facility in North America.

BTW The new gear pan heads, and the P0 hybrid, are currently expected in late January or early February 2017.
Also the Quick Link for quickly attaching and detaching the head for travel will be shipping around the same time.
Rod
 
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