MF High ISO Image Thread

[Steve Hendrix]

Actually, the cat looks to me like he has been selectively converted to monochrome to neutralize the color cast.

I know and it's quite amazing, I can't even recall exactly step for step what I did.

But it was done in the C1 Pro 4.6.2 Color Editor and took about 30 seconds like I said. Primarily what occurred was an actual neutral white balance on the door, as seen here, but you can see that his coat still doesn't resemble the neutrality I'm looking for. In both the "color balanced" shot and the final, the white door is reading neutral.

The further neutrality for the final was accomplished by selecting various odd colored fur patches and selectively desaturating them with the Color Editor. It was easy and quick.

I think before C1 Pro 4, the Color Editor was promising, but difficult to use. With C1 Pro V4, it is now much easier and faster, and it's embedded in C1 Pro instead of being a separate application as it was in C1 Pro 3.


Steve Hendrix
Phase One


Steve Hendrix
Phase One

 

[Guy Mancuso]

Yes the color editor is a great tool

 

[Guy Mancuso]

Great example demonstrating how much I haven't mastered in C1 ... I better sign up for one of those tutorials.

Or come to our workshops. Okay selfish pitch there. LOL

But seriously Doug is great at explaining how this all works and it is cool as heck. Just don't tell him, he may not get his head through the door. LOL

 

[yaya]

I've found this the case with H3D shots, Canon shots, and now Phase One (remember, I've shot with all of them). Some things have to be tamed in post. It's nice to have the tools to do it.
Steve Hendrix
Phase One

Steve I see that you have unintentionally omitted Leaf from that list:bugeyes::bugeyes: Is that because you've found our cameras to be more pet friendly?:toocool::toocool:

 

[KurtKamka]

There's no harm in selfish pitches ...

You need to work out a deal with Capture Integration such that they provide a $___ certificate to a getdpi workshop with a purchase of a digital back or gear over $___.

 

[Steve Hendrix]

Steve I see that you have unintentionally omitted Leaf from that list:bugeyes::bugeyes: Is that because you've found our cameras to be more pet friendly?:toocool::toocool:

Yair

No unintention at all.

This is a high ISO thread..........


Steve Hendrix
Phase One

 

[mtomalty]

Yair
No unintention at all.
This is a high ISO thread..........
Steve Hendrix
Phase One

Phase 1
Leaf 0

Sorry Yair, but all judges rule that Steve scored a point on that play :>))

 

[Guy Mancuso]

There's no harm in selfish pitches ...

You need to work out a deal with Capture Integration such that they provide a $___ certificate to a getdpi workshop with a purchase of a digital back or gear over $___.

Agree where is Mr Gallagher when you need him. LOL

I think this could be arranged. LOL

 

[yaya]

Phase 1
Leaf 0

Sorry Yair, but all judges rule that Steve scored a point on that play :>))

800 Vs 4,800 mate...I think the rules are being re-written with the AFi-II 10 and Aptus-II 10...

 

[Stuart Richardson]

Ok, these should not be regarded as "quality" files, as they are not something I would use professionally. I was out photographing in the full moon, and I brought along the 110/2 and my Sinar 54LV. The maximum exposure time is 32 seconds and the maximum ISO is 400 (though it is actually 200 in real terms). These were exposed at f/2, ISO 400 (200) for 32 seconds and then pushed 2.5 stops in Capture One, so they are effectively ISO 2500 (1000 actual).

They are grainy and have some weird pixel effects, but they look ok at small sizes. I have a feeling they would be sharp if I had been able to focus or use an aperture greater than f/2...I had to just leave it at infinity because it was too dark to see.

But anyway, I think they are better than I thought they would be, but my guess is that they are suffering more from the exposure time and then ISO. At ISO 400 and a proper exposure, the results are not bad.

I am not a manufacturer or a seller, so this is just what I can show you...I am not sure the black references are correct ( why can't it just make a single damn file?), but I did tell it to do one before one of the first long exposures. The images were converted to DNG in eXposure. I used Capture One to process the negs, because frankly, it is a much better program.

P.S. The D3 is a vastly better tool for this type of work. See here: http://www.stuartrichardson.com/lightroom/march-3rd-aurora/


Edit: Actually, the weird picture artifacts at 100% are from capture one. They are not there in eXposure, so I will have to eat my words. There does not seem to be any noise reduction program though, which is a drag.

 

[mtomalty]

Thanks for the images and background details with the shoot,Stuart.
BTW, your linked aurora images are spectacular.

Without doubt,something like the D3 will excel in extreme circumstances like you
show.
For a lot of the landscape imagery I shoot it very often doesn't take extreme night
conditions for exposure/aperture considerations to extend beyond 30 seconds.
Overcast or rainy weather under a forest canopy where an f-stop of f11-16 is
required in tandem with a polarizer can easily hit more than 32 seconds,even at
mid day so how DB's have traditionally responded in these conditions have kept
me away as a purchaser until now.
With price drops and system deals happening it is now a more reasonable option
for me to consider.
Knowing that all of the newest products from Leaf,Blad, and Phase use a
Dalsa sensor my curiosity is piqued as to whether one brand has been more successfull,to date, with getting a handle on longer exposures.

Mark
www.marktomalty.com

 

[mtomalty]

800 Vs 4,800 mate...I think the rules are being re-written with the AFi-II 10 and Aptus-II 10...

Where might one find these rules,mate....

Mark
www.marktomalty.com

 

[Steve Hendrix]

Knowing that all of the newest products from Leaf,Blad, and Phase use a
Dalsa sensor my curiosity is piqued as to whether one brand has been more successfull,to date, with getting a handle on longer exposures.

Mark
www.marktomalty.com

Hasselblad does not use Dalsa sensors.

Regarding longer exposures it is safe to say, and completely without any bias on my part, that Phase One is the clear winner.


Steve Hendrix
Phase One

 

[mtomalty]

Hasselblad does not use Dalsa sensors.}

My mistake. For some reason i mistakenly assumed that the H3Dll-50
used a Dalso sensor.

Regarding longer exposures it is safe to say, and completely without any bias on my part, that Phase One is the clear winner.

32s with a Dalsa or am I assuming,incorrectly, again?


Mark

 

[carstenw]

Close. 1 hour with a Kodak

Phase One and Hasselblad use Kodak sensors, although I don't know about the latest Hasselblad backs. The P65+ is the exception, and uses a Dalsa, but cannot handle 1 hour exposures. I don't quite recall but I think it does 1 minute. Leaf and Sinar use Dalsa.

 

[Stuart Richardson]

Hasselblad does not use Dalsa sensors.}

My mistake. For some reason i mistakenly assumed that the H3Dll-50
used a Dalso sensor.

Regarding longer exposures it is safe to say, and completely without any bias on my part, that Phase One is the clear winner.

32s with a Dalsa or am I assuming,incorrectly, again?


Mark

My back is a Sinar, which is a 22mp Dalsa sensor. The camera (Hy6) limits it to 32 seconds, which I believe is the maximum for the back as well.

 

[Steve Hendrix]

Close. 1 hour with a Kodak

Phase One and Hasselblad use Kodak sensors, although I don't know about the latest Hasselblad backs. The P65+ is the exception, and uses a Dalsa, but cannot handle 1 hour exposures. I don't quite recall but I think it does 1 minute. Leaf and Sinar use Dalsa.

Yes, this includes all current Hasselblad backs.

And you are correct, long exposure is not the strength of the Dalsa chip, although this doesn not mean you cannot obtain high quality long exposures. And it is not a matter of the chip itself, anyway. Both Hasselblad and Phase One products use the same chip in many models, but the max Hasselblad exposure is 32 seconds, where our max is 60 minutes. So clearly we do something with the chip.

You can take longer than 1 minute exposures with the P65+, I would say that the results don't live up to the previous P+ backs yet. But I wouldn't be surprised if we eventually have longer than 1 minute optimal exposures with the P65+.


Steve Hendrix
Phase One

 

[Guy Mancuso]

Steve I can deal with a minute just send one over. I wish:ROTFL::ROTFL::ROTFL:

 

[Howard Cubell]

Yes, this includes all current Hasselblad backs.
You can take longer than 1 minute exposures with the P65+, I would say that the results don't live up to the previous P+ backs yet. But I wouldn't be surprised if we eventually have longer than 1 minute optimal exposures with the P65+.
Steve Hendrix
Phase One

Steve:
I assume that's possible as part of the new "Promise Plus" Technology in the P65? :ROTFL:

 

[kdphotography]

I find that low light images with long exposures are the ones that really test the quality of the back---not the higher key images. And I've had experience with both P30 and P45+ MFDBs making fantastic long exposures in low light. The P65+ with its Dalsa sensor is admittedly more limited than its other Phase brethern.

So from our the CI in Carmel excursion, I thought I'd see how the P65+ faired ---shooting the SF GG Bridge, at night, with an aperture of f/16 Yup---that's right. Phase 645AF, Mamiya 75-150, P65+, ISO 400;30 seconds at f/16

C1Pro to JPEG. No real post processing. Resized and converted over to sRGB. Not too bad----I'd like to see how the Sensor+ technology adds to the equation...