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MFDB on Mamiya 645AF vs RZ67

gsking

New member
Don't be to quick to unload that lens ... it more fun than you can imagine ... unless all you are after is razor sharp results.

If that is the case, then get your mits on a 210 APO and try that one. Make sure you use protective eye wear, or your eyes will get sliced clean through :eek:
LOL...thanks. Yeah, I can always stop down to get sharpness, right? Heck, that's the ironic part...I shot at f/5.6 when I should have been shooting at f/8 or f/11 for proper exposure, where it would have been fully "corrected", right?

The problem is I have the 150mm, 210mm (non-APO)...both with AF, and the 300mm f/2.8 APO, for my 645...at this rate, I'll never use them. :rolleyes:

On that note, does anyone know how an original AE prism (non-II) "works" on a Pro II if it hasn't been modified? I hear it won't work properly, but what are the symptoms? This one bounces all over the map 30% of the time, and shows meter-high or meter-low readings the rest of the time.

It would be nice to know if this meter would be fine, if I could find a non-II body to put it on.

Greg
 

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
The AE1 prism will work just fine on the RZ Pro2 -- it just doesn't allow manually setting the 1/2 step shutter speeds.
 

gsking

New member
The AE1 prism will work just fine on the RZ Pro2 -- it just doesn't allow manually setting the 1/2 step shutter speeds.
See note here:
http://www.keh.com/OnLineStore/Prod...BCC=&CC=&CCC=&BCL=&GBC=&GCC=&KW=rz67 ae prism

Apparently "stock" finders will not work. Since the seller was dishonest enough to sell a broken camera as "working", I can't trust that the non-functional AE prism is due to it being broken, the camera being broken, or it just not having been modified. He's obviously not a viable resource.

So I'm trying to see if there's any benefit to buying a non-Pro II body if I can find one cheap.

An email to Mamiya has not been returned. Go figure....poor customer service is the norm these days.

Thanks,
Greg
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
See note here:
An email to Mamiya has not been returned. Go figure....poor customer service is the norm these days.

Thanks,
Greg
Customer service in medium format is generally the responsibility of the dealers and not the manufacturer; it just makes more sense since components in medium format companies are often mish-mashed between different companies. So when you buy used from an individual rather than used/new from a full service dealer you don't have that level of support.

Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
__________________
Head of Technical Services, Capture Integration
Phase One, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
National: 877.217.9870 | Cell: 740.707.2183
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gsking

New member
Customer service in medium format is generally the responsibility of the dealers and not the manufacturer; it just makes more sense since components in medium format companies are often mish-mashed between different companies. So when you buy used from an individual rather than used/new from a full service dealer you don't have that level of support.
Point taken, but then why have a link to [email protected] on the website if no one plans to actually monitor it and respond to requests? Seems rather silly to me.

"Personal Assistance from Mamiya...via E-mail

MAC Group offers personal assistance in the USA via E-mail, fax or phone. We will respond to E-mail promptly during the business week. "

Greg
 

gsking

New member
Interesting -- I've had two that worked just fine...
Were they stock?

MAC just replied...they say the erratic performance does not sound like a compatibility issue of that nature....just a broken prism. I'm thinking it may also be a bad connection, but nothing I do seems to ameliorate it.

Oh well....more reason not to use it, and/or to not feel bad when I have to return it for my refund. :)

Greg
 

gsking

New member
I think the prism took a complete dump. Ah it's no worse now. WLF on the way.

On a good note, I discovered that a 2.5mm-jack wired earbud with microphone works as a PERFECT wake-up cable for my H10 back. I push the answer-call button and it closes the same circuit as a PC-sync trigger.

It plugs in one side, and the PC-sync from the lens goes in the other.

Slick, and only $2.50....vs. $90-500 for commercial solutions.

Greg
 

FromJapan

Member
Greg,

That's a fantastic idea! Did you splice a flash-sync connector to the cord? Can you post a picture? I need a longer cable for my view camera, and this looks perfect. I have a zillion of these things lying around.

Cheers,
Kumar
 

gsking

New member
Kumar,

No, that was the funny part. Since there are two "C" ports on my back (left and right), I didn't need to splice anything. Either can be used, so it wakes up with one plug and triggers on the other.

Of course, if I double-push the button, it'll set off the flash prematurely, because the back generates the output PC-sync on the second trigger.

I expected to have to splice a button onto the wire, but realized it had one already. So even though it's a three-wire plug (with two insulator bands), vs. the PC sync being just two-wire (one band), it works perfectly.

It's a Plantronics MX200...I got two shipped for $5.

Greg
 

FromJapan

Member
Greg,

Think I could splice a flash connector to the other end? I have a 132C, and don't need a wake-up cable. I have quite a few flash cables and earphones lying around. If it works, I'll save a lot of change!

Kumar
 
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gsking

New member
So you just want a PC-sync to 2.5mm plug to trigger the back from the PC sync? Is that your only need?

My adapter came with one (coiled), but I also have another straight one I got from somewhere. I use it to attach my Metz 301 adapter to PC-sync.

Something like this one? (on ebay).
220356899281

Greg
 

FromJapan

Member
Yes, that's exactly what I'm looking for. I have a couple of 6 inch cables, but on the view camera I need longer cables. Can you believe I can't find them in the stores here in Japan?

Kumar
 

yaya

Active member
Kumar you can buy a DSLR remote release cable on eBay for $5 that'll give you the stereo jack and a 50-100 cm cable, then solder it to a pc jack and you're done

Yair
 

gsking

New member
Update:

I had to modify the Leaf adapter slightly to fit the Phase One H10 back. The left side of the back is contoured, so it extended beyond the square "pocket" on the adapter. Nothing my Dremel couldn't solve. :)

The rotating feature is incredibly useful, as expected (unless you have a square back, of course).

The 110mm tests out very sharp both on film and digital. To satisfy my curiosity, I picked up a 110mm 645 lens so I can compare head-to-head.

The complication of wind/wake/shoot is a bit cumbersome, but even my 5-year-old was able to pick it up quickly.

And the film came out only mildy overexposed, which was nice. My focusing leaves a lot to be desired. ;)

Greg
 
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