tashley
Subscriber Member
Now this is really anal but my excuse is that it's part of my ongoing process of getting all the details tied down so when I shoot in the field I get what I was expecting!
This diagram adapts Schneider's own for this lens at F11. As they state, if you are shifting ONLY vertically then you have 19mm up and 19mm down to play with. Similarly you have 17mm for horizontal.
But if you want to shoot for maximum field of coverage, in other words shifting horizontally AND vertically to get the largest 'virtual sensor' possible, then you have to avoid the vigged corners.
I made the following diagram and measured what maximum COMBINED shifts I could use at F11 to get both 4/3 and 3/2 frame ratios.
The results are:
4/3
Vertical 7mm in each direction
Horizontal 12mm in each direction
3/2
Vertical 5mm in each direction
Horizontal 14mm in each direction
So for example if you want a classic 3:2 ratio frame you can do four frames of
Top Left 14mm left 5mm up
Bottom Left 14mm left 5mm down
Top Right 14mm right 5mm up
Bottom Right 14mm right 5mm down
You might in fact choose to use greater movements and more frames so as to get the sweet spots placed optimally but the advantage of my calculations is that if you are shooting without a viewfinder or focus screen, you can use these numbers to accurately gauge your framing by shoot-and-chimp.
I'm sure someone with better math than me could have worked this out mathematically but it only took five minutes! Please let me know if there are any obvious mistakes!
Best
Tim
View attachment 14627
ps for a 4:3 image this gives a total virtual sensor of about 80 mp
for a 3:2 image this gives a total virtual sensor of about 78 mp
This diagram adapts Schneider's own for this lens at F11. As they state, if you are shifting ONLY vertically then you have 19mm up and 19mm down to play with. Similarly you have 17mm for horizontal.
But if you want to shoot for maximum field of coverage, in other words shifting horizontally AND vertically to get the largest 'virtual sensor' possible, then you have to avoid the vigged corners.
I made the following diagram and measured what maximum COMBINED shifts I could use at F11 to get both 4/3 and 3/2 frame ratios.
The results are:
4/3
Vertical 7mm in each direction
Horizontal 12mm in each direction
3/2
Vertical 5mm in each direction
Horizontal 14mm in each direction
So for example if you want a classic 3:2 ratio frame you can do four frames of
Top Left 14mm left 5mm up
Bottom Left 14mm left 5mm down
Top Right 14mm right 5mm up
Bottom Right 14mm right 5mm down
You might in fact choose to use greater movements and more frames so as to get the sweet spots placed optimally but the advantage of my calculations is that if you are shooting without a viewfinder or focus screen, you can use these numbers to accurately gauge your framing by shoot-and-chimp.
I'm sure someone with better math than me could have worked this out mathematically but it only took five minutes! Please let me know if there are any obvious mistakes!
Best
Tim
View attachment 14627
ps for a 4:3 image this gives a total virtual sensor of about 80 mp
for a 3:2 image this gives a total virtual sensor of about 78 mp
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