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P30 Plus Noise test

LJL

New member
hmmm....hard to tell, but it looks like the "grain" came up just a bit compared to your first posting. You are starting to chew into the detail a bit, but it is still fairly acceptable for ISO 1600 on a MF back. I do think the DSLRs will hold a bit more at this ISO, but they too start to see some of the DR compression at those higher ISOs, and they also tend to smear the detail more.

Not as familiar with the NR in C1, as I like using Nik Software Dfine instead, but you should be able to tune things with a bit more testing.

Thanks for sharing these. Always good to see tough/practical testing of the kinds of things that may actually wind up in the final images from shoots.

LJ
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Hold it my bad I hit a sharpness setting by accident . Okay back to normal on that and 23 and 57 settings
 

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
Here is your first 1600 jpeg with DFine run at auto. IMO it looks darn good especially considering it's done to a jpeg, and even considering the slight loss of detail I think it's an improvement -- and any way you slice it, it is still lots better than dropping down to 1/4 the original resolution to get there I think! :
 

LJL

New member
Actually, couple things look different. The original appears to have a bit different tint than the corrected shot. And, I actually like the original a bit more. It seems to hold up nicely without much effort, but the blacks are starting to break up just a bit. Despite the tungsten lighting, there is enough light overall to give a decent capture. The kitchen shots are a bit different story, as there was just lest light in those to start.

LJ
 

LJL

New member
Jack,
I like this treatment. It does smooth things a bit more, especially in the wood cabinets, but it does yield a very nice overall result. I also strongly agree that the 31MP at ISO 1600 is preferred to the 10MP at ISO 1600 that you might get with Sensor+ on the P40+ back. Just my opinion, but I like how this one turned out with Dfine.

LJ
 

Dale Allyn

New member
Looks like maybe the noise is getting sharpened too. Maybe kick the sharpening down, then despeckle or run it through d-fine, etc., then sharpen for output in PS. (?)
 

Dale Allyn

New member
Man, I post slow. I was replying to Guy's sample before Jack's go at it. Sheesh. :)

I like what Jack is getting towards here as well.
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Man that D Fine is really good. Plus that is done to the jpeg no less. What bugs me the most on noise is the color. I don't mind the noise so much but when you have color noise it's like 3 times worse to me.

Interesting this is supposed to be a old sensor. Yea right. Nothing old when the output is damn good and that goes for the 25 and 45 along with the Hassy 31 and 39 sensors .
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Here is your first 1600 jpeg with DFine run at auto. IMO it looks darn good especially considering it's done to a jpeg, and even considering the slight loss of detail I think it's an improvement -- and any way you slice it, it is still lots better than dropping down to 1/4 the original resolution to get there I think! :
Yes but the loss of detail is more smoothness but the damn type is still very sharp with detail. Amazing how we can read this so well
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
I bet after the D Fine you kicked the sharpness back up a touch maybe about the best you can get.
 

jlm

Workshop Member
the tell for me is the detail in the stone backsplash in the kitchen shots and the black register lines near the knobs on the range. looks like zones 2 and 3 suffer
 

Ben Rubinstein

Active member
Wow, I mean wow. It's utter garbage in ACR but in C1 it's more than useable even after pushing it 0.9 of a stop. Set Luminance to 15 and the file looks better than iso 800 film. Quite a bit better actually. I'd love to use that back for wedding portraiture work knowing that I had a very useable iso 400 even if I underexpose to hold the whites. Any of these medium format systems have good TTL flash systems?
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
I'd love to use that back for wedding portraiture work knowing that I had a very useable iso 400 even if I underexpose to hold the whites. Any of these medium format systems have good TTL flash systems?
Short answer: yes, using a Metz adapter. See the article below for pics and model numbers.

Capture Integration Article On MF TTL

Doug

Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
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Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
I just worked up the raws and here are my settings:

Exposure is dead on, leave it at zero. WB is fine, or adjust slightly to taste. I used all of the default lens corrections for the Mamiya 28 and checked (applied) sharpness falloff too. On the levels slider I moved black point up to 4, and the midtone slider to - 0.06 (left) -- this increases both low end contrast and midtone brightness; highlight recovery to 10 to balance upper toines; sharpening at our standard of 98/0.4/2; NR to Lum 30, color at 40. The next step is clarity to 50.

To my eyes, the files pop and look great, no added NR needed! And they still hold great detail as I can see crumbs on your table and minor scratches in your cabinet drawers as well as the wood grain, and even an errant thread sticking out of the hand-towel at the far right in the bathroom shot.

:thumbs:
 

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
Interesting NR issue cropped up in C1 -- my settings seem to go away if I touch the color slider! Anyway, sent an email off to C1 tech guru supreme Doug Peterson to see wtf is up!

Here is a screenshot from the tiffs straight out of C1, opened in Photoshop. Both conversions of the same raw file using the exact same C1 settings as I indicated above. Only difference is for the one on the left I didn't move the color slider off 40, but for the one on the right, I first moved the color NR slider up to 50, then back down to 40!
 
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