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Cambo RS 1000 & Schneider 24mm lens Part II

Don Libby

Well-known member
I felt that I had blotched the first test in as much I failed to ensure the body was set at zero movements thus creating a small amount of vignette. I also felt this failure gave the wrong impression not only of the RS 1000 but the lens as well. While I didn't beat myself up over this I did want to show what this combination was capable of so decided to go out once again and prove there merits; and I think I did...





Wanted to see this in b&w









Final image and sunset of the day:



These were first opened in C1 for LCC then brought over to CS4 for processing. The centerfilter was used in all images.

Hope this clears up any misconception my other images may have given..

Don
 

tashley

Subscriber Member
Don, thanks for that. It's very useful indeed!

I have to say that much as I like the RS1000 I have not yet sold my WDS because I keep nudging the vertical gear off zero. It's in exactly the place where one holds the camera and though it does need to be touched to move (it is well geared) the weight of the rig means that the slightest touch will cause it to shift unintentionally. The WDS may be too big and may have a mixture of front and rear movements but it does lock!

Looks like you're loving this lens and making the best of it! lovely shots.

Best

Tim
 

Don Libby

Well-known member
Don, thanks for that. It's very useful indeed!

I have to say that much as I like the RS1000 I have not yet sold my WDS because I keep nudging the vertical gear off zero. It's in exactly the place where one holds the camera and though it does need to be touched to move (it is well geared) the weight of the rig means that the slightest touch will cause it to shift unintentionally. The WDS may be too big and may have a mixture of front and rear movements but it does lock!

Looks like you're loving this lens and making the best of it! lovely shots.

Best

Tim
Thanks Tim

I think from what I've seen so far with this lens is that it won't take too much to make it sing. I'll admit to not having any real hands on experience wit the WDS, preferring instead to use the RS so I don't know the weight difference between the two are. My problems with shifting the RS all stem from human error (much like remembering to remove the lens cap or cocking the shutter) as I have often made a movement and either forgot to reset or thought I had but not at the zero mark. This inattention to detail (and I am working to correct it) hasn't meant a great deal to the other lens if the body hadn't been resent exactly to zero but it does with the 24.

I've always said using a technical camera makes one slow down and be aware of the details now I have to heed my own advice and be more aware of the details.

I really can't come up with any "real" negative aspects of the RS-1000 which currently appears to be a perfect or near perfect match with the P45+ (I plan on testing it with Ken's P65 sometime later this year).

I decided to post processed images instead of the type I had previously in hope of letting folks see just what this combination is capable of; the only lens corrective action in any of them was the LCC. None of these images exhibited and vignetting.

Don
 
Don,

Were you using a LCC file captured when you took the image or a 'generic' LCC file that you keep on the computer? I ask because, while I very well may be mistaken, I think I see some traces of green and magenta in some of the shots (especially #2 and #7). If so, I am wondering if the angle of light from the rear element to the sensor is so severe that the ultimate match of a precise LCC file shot in the identical light as the image file is required.

But then I may be full of poppycock too ....
 

Don Libby

Well-known member
Don,

Were you using a LCC file captured when you took the image or a 'generic' LCC file that you keep on the computer? I ask because, while I very well may be mistaken, I think I see some traces of green and magenta in some of the shots (especially #2 and #7). If so, I am wondering if the angle of light from the rear element to the sensor is so severe that the ultimate match of a precise LCC file shot in the identical light as the image file is required.

But then I may be full of poppycock too ....


Hi Mark

No poppycock my friend. The LCC was one I generated shortly after getting the lens. Images 1 through 5 were shot with the RS in level flight and #6 I tilted it up a couple degrees (using the Cube not the camera movements). And I think I may have overdone #7 or maybe I quite too soon. :cussing::banghead:

All my LCC's are generated in my backyard and kept in a library on my computer. I will normally shoot one in the field if I'm shooting outside the norm.

Recognize where these were taken?


Don
 

thomas

New member
All my LCC's are generated in my backyard and kept in a library on my computer. I will normally shoot one in the field if I'm shooting outside the norm.
the sensor cast goes from magenta to green. When using the center filter lens cast is introduced as well and this one goes from blue to yellow in the center. This is why I don't use the center filter on my Digitar 47XL (on WRS1000/P45) - I find there is no way to correct the colour cast accurate as both kinds of cast work against each other.
In addition - if you use the center filter however - you should take the calibration shots directly on location as with the center filter the specific lighting conditions are much more critical.
I process the LCC shots and use them as masks in Photoshop. This way vignetting is controlled very well and as I don't use the center filter I have no trouble with colour cast correction.
Regards, Thomas
 
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archivue

Active member
Is the DS as precise as the RS ?

Is it stupid to buy a second hand DS, and maybe upgrading later to a RS ?

Most of the time, i prefer view camera (arca fline69)... but for the short end, i think a pancake camera is a better solution...
 

thomas

New member
Is the DS as precise as the RS ?
just tried the DS in a quick hands-on test. I'd say it's as precise as the WRS. But when it comes to stitching the WRS is more precise as stitching based solely on the movement of the rear standard is more accurate as the combination of vertical shift with the lens and lateral shift with the back.
The WRS is a well thought out small and light camera designed for use with digital backs only. The WDS is somewhat clunky compared to the WRS and if you shoot digital without exception me personally I can't see any advantage for the WDS.
 

Don Libby

Well-known member
Build-wise I feel the WDS and RS are both very similar. The WDS has a very long history as it was first introduced as a film camera and later on film/digital. The RS on the other hand is slightly smaller and was designed solely for digital. The other differences are the movements with the WDS splitting the movements between the back and lens and the RS having all the movements on the back. I think the RS will give you a much better stitched image due to the placement of the movements.

The RS is still very new having just been introduced late last year so I doubt very much if anyone can find a used on while on the other hand the WDS has been around much longer.

If you don't plan on shooting film go with the RS. If you want better movements (in regards to how they are done) go with the RS. If you want to save money and yet have a good system - go with the WDS.

Just my 2 cents...

Don
 

tashley

Subscriber Member
I have a WDS for sale if you're interested.... almost unused, I haven't posted it anywhere yet or decided a price but I won't be aggressive about it!

T
 
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