does this apply to all plates/heads? So would you recommend to remove the rubber? Didn't do it by now as I thought the rubber absorbs...ANY plate with a rubber or cork top is a bad option and will skew results negatively.
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does this apply to all plates/heads? So would you recommend to remove the rubber? Didn't do it by now as I thought the rubber absorbs...ANY plate with a rubber or cork top is a bad option and will skew results negatively.
Tim:Hi Jack!
I'm quite sure you're right and have ordered a larger plate and also have an L bracket coming but I would add that the Manfrotto plate is also rubber (if somewhat larger) and that the 410 I have both looks and feels very rigid indeed - but I guess I won't be able to benefit from the full abilities of the Cube until the Phamiya is unambiguously attached to the Cube as well as humanly possible!
Best
Tim
No, I'd recommend you buy a plate designed specifically for your camera. Companies like Kirk and RRS make plates machined to match the contour of the base of your camera, providing a base that literally becomes part of the camera itself --- this is one of the main benefits of using the Arca-style clamp system.does this apply to all plates/heads? So would you recommend to remove the rubber? Didn't do it by now as I thought the rubber absorbs...
Yup, well spotted - I wasn't after art though! However the shots were all taken pretty quickly and later in the day I've taken a bunch more with more stable atmospheric conditions and they all concur. Also, with shots taken at, say 1/25th and no mup, 1 sec mup and 6 sec mup within moments of each other you clearly see the blur reduce as you flick from shot to shot.The Cube appears to have a blue cast, whereas the Manfrotto has a green cast
Seriously, did you take all of the Cube shots together and all of the Manfrotto shots together? There might have been a change in the air density in the time between...
Jack Bob and Don,No, I'd recommend you buy a plate designed specifically for your camera. Companies like Kirk and RRS make plates machined to match the contour of the base of your camera, providing a base that literally becomes part of the camera itself --- this is one of the main benefits of using the Arca-style clamp system.
See Kirk: http://www.kirkphoto.com/index.html
See RRS: http://reallyrightstuff.com/index.html
As you can tell, I am a fan of the 410 but I must say that neither of the heads I tested gave what I would call blur-free results until a 1/200th - and with a really good setup and MUP I would hope to get those results at much lower speeds!Tim,
thank you for this test. I wont even follow the thread any more (until you get the new plate) since I got myself the 410 head today. I had a ball head before but for levelling the Artec its a pain. Another guy recommended me the 410 and then I saw your post and went to the store and got the 410. First impression is very good. I do not doubt the cube is great but I cant see spending that much money for a tripod-head.
Compared to the ball head I have used before (which works fine as a ball head) the geared 410 is a pleassure allready. I was impressed after just few minutes of using it.
Sorry for the off topic comment. Of course I will follow up your thread.
Tim,Jack Bob and Don,
I have an L plate arriving from Arca themselves. Does anyone have experience of that one? Also, the base of the Cube itself has a smaller two concentric circles and the inner smaller one stands proud meaning that the entire weight of the device and camera is supported on it, which seems to me to improve the chance of wobble. Am I being daft here? Is there something that should go between the cube and the tripod?
Best
Tim
try a Gitzo 2780 or probably better 3780 (#2 is enough by specs ... but with the #3 you don't have to worry about any movement after tightening the head).I love the stuff in general, but I find that both heads move a touch as you tighten them, which really annoys me.