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D300 AWB in studio

W

woodyspedden

New member
Guy

To my eye the skin tones are more realistic in the C1 rendering. Only problem is that it turns all the girls hair to blonde (except for your baby)

Woody
 
S

S.P.

Guest
Why don´t you make a white balance on a grey card?

Either by pushing "PRE" for some seconds and taking a full frame picture of the grey card or by taking one picture of the model holding the grey card and using this for white balance in the raw converter?

With studio lighting I never used auto white balance.
 
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Guy Mancuso

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
I did have one issue , maybe someone can enlighten me. My Micro sync transmitter is giving me issues , so i tried the on board flash at -2 stops to pop off my main strobes which went off no problem but would not record my main strobes. Finally had to use a cable . Yes folks Nikons still have PC outlets .

But there must be a setting i missed so i can see my strobes any idea's out there
 
L

LJL

New member
Guy,
Actually, I have found that shooting one of the black/gray/white "calibration target" things (collapsable reflector type device) is actually better. It gives you both the proper gray for doing the WB, and it also gives you three sharp spikes to see what your exposure is doing (crushing the blacks or blowing the white out). This is most helpful for folks wanting to shoot JPEGs right out the camera, but it also helps a whole lot with RAW to get a good feel for where the exposure and WB corrections may need any adjustments. I used to stick a MacBeth CC into shots, and got too frustrated looking at all the colors that were not coming out quite right, depending on the RAW converter used ;-) Just a thought.

LJ

P.S. This is the kind of thing I am talking about: http://www.adorama.com/WEDT24.html
 
Terry

Terry

New member
I'm sure all of her friends are going to want copies. It certainly isn't everday where a bunch of teens can get a group picture that isn't taken with a tiny underpowered flash on a compact camera.they look like they were having lots of fun. Glad there was a brunette shot as that was reallly blond LOL.
 
Guy Mancuso

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Really BLONDE. Of course we think that but I wonder how much hair coloring is going on here. LOL
 
Guy Mancuso

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Zeiss 50mm 1.4 at 5.6 processed in C1 at 4400 kelvin. Looks pretty clean here . The Brunettes. I like the look of these Zeiss lenses. Hate shooting ion the garage if it was my call i would have that background 10 ft further away so no detail
 
S

S.P.

Guest
Guy Mancuso said:
I did have one issue , maybe someone can enlighten me. My Micro sync transmitter is giving me issues , so i tried the on board flash at -2 stops to pop off my main strobes which went off no problem but would not record my main strobes. Finally had to use a cable . Yes folks Nikons still have PC outlets .

But there must be a setting i missed so i can see my strobes any idea's out there
Click to expand...
You must set the internal flash to "M". If you use TTL the preflash triggers the strobes and you don´t see it on the picture.
 
Guy Mancuso

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
I think C1 is the ticket. BTW in NX it is sharper . Nikon looks like there adding sharpening to there NX package

LR
C1
NX
 
D

dfarkas

Workshop Member
Guy,

What strobes are you using now? Profoto, Elinchrom and Broncolor all have color temps at around 5400K at all power levels. I usually just set a manual Kelvin balance and go to town, or in a pinch just set to daylight. In my mind any studio strobe worth its salt should be truly daylight balanced and maintain that temperature throughout the entire power range. That way if you have one light at 600Ws and another at 37Ws, you won't get strange and uncorrectable color casts. I'm really looking forward to the new Sekonic digital color meter (I got the memo months ago, but no ship date or price yet). Then, I plan to put every strobe system I can get my hands on to the test! :lecture:

David
 
L

LJL

New member
David,
I will love to see your results on those tests. There are differences in light color temps at output levels for some strobe systems for sure. The Profotos, Elinchroms and Broncolor have always prided their rather precise color temp outputs, regardless of output power. I have found my DynaLites to be pretty close there also, but probably not as close across the entire range. There seems to be a lot of variation with many others, so it would be nice to know how good/bad some of these are.

I would choose Elinchroms for most consistency and just really lovely light, Profotos for sturdiness and also very nice light. The Brons are also wonderful, but they are a bit too proud of their product (expensive). The DynaLites are a bit of a compromise for very light and very portable compared to the others, and yet they can produce a nice light also. I keep threatening to change up to Profotos, just because I haul things around so much and they are less "fragile", but the added bulk and weight is less attractive.

Also on the scene now are Westcott daylight balanced fluorescents. The color temps from them are very consistent at 5400K or so. They just do not put out all that much light, but it does wrap nicely (very soft), and the units stay very cool, plus you can mix with strobes to get different accents, and that seems to work nicely. I like them for being able to shoot slower shutter speeds at wider apertures and still get a nice daylight look without the heat of other continuous lights, and being able to mix with flash for spots or highlights, while still seeing most of what you want for light coverage. (Modeling lights are o.k., but just are not the same when trying to shape the light more precisely, IMHO.)

Sorry to hijack Guy's thread, but this is valuable stuff also ;-)

LJ
 
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Guy Mancuso

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
dfarkas said:
Guy,

What strobes are you using now? Profoto, Elinchrom and Broncolor all have color temps at around 5400K at all power levels. I usually just set a manual Kelvin balance and go to town, or in a pinch just set to daylight. In my mind any studio strobe worth its salt should be truly daylight balanced and maintain that temperature throughout the entire power range. That way if you have one light at 600Ws and another at 37Ws, you won't get strange and uncorrectable color casts. I'm really looking forward to the new Sekonic digital color meter (I got the memo months ago, but no ship date or price yet). Then, I plan to put every strobe system I can get my hands on to the test! :lecture:

David
Click to expand...
I downgrade from the Profot0s's just did not need so much power . I have Dynalite Twinkles which are 600 watt mono's they are pretty good, have 4 of them and there cheap . i need more I rent Profoto's, have two places in town to get all I need.
 
Steen

Steen

Senior Subscriber Member
Great captures, Guy, and some sharp lens !
In that web sized image measuring just 598 X 900 you can still see tiny little light hairs on her left arm.
 
D

dfarkas

Workshop Member
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