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D7000 in 'bits' . . . ?

C

CJS

Guest
I'm in the process of, or considering upgrading my D5000 body. Coming from the dim and distant days of 35mm. I have been dragged kicking a screaming in to the world of digital photography. Then I had to learn how to use a camera . . . yeah, point an SLR click and hope it did the job . . . thang god for a good process lab. I was a very amateur jerno., for a while! All past now, nearly retired, I take pictures for my own sake.

I have looked at a D90, almost a sideways move from the D5000? But the D7000, looks great to me? I have picked up on the metering issue . . . all my Nikons have required some 'minus compensation', from -1.0 to -0.3 depending on the situation at hand.

Offering head room in my 'retirement' to really get to grips :toocool: . . . However, I sometimes strugle with techie stuff. How will the 12bit-14bit thing:bugeyes: affect me? . . . New computer? re vamp computer? new pp program? currently use PhotoShop Elements v.7 and v.8? or maybe, stay 'simple' on the D90?

Sorry, if I'm sounding thick . . . but new tech makes me panic, my dyslexic brain struggles sometimes, other times, I breeze through, but I have to be honest, give me a spanner and a hammer and I'm happy:)

CJS
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
Regarding 12bits vs 14bits, it's really a choice over how much headroom you want in the images for RAW processing. If you are shooting just jpg then it won't matter at all.

14bits provides more tonal detail for subsequent post processing if you need to work on the image in Photoshop or Lightroom etc but comes at the cost of larger files and slower camera operation. Essentially you start with a tonally richer RAW file which may or may not be significant for you. With my D3s I shoot 14bit by default for landscape and scenic work but for wildlife and action I'll typically shoot at 12bit to get the maximum speed from my camera.
 
C

CJS

Guest
Regarding 12bits vs 14bits, it's really a choice over how much headroom you want in the images for RAW processing. If you are shooting just jpg then it won't matter at all.

14bits provides more tonal detail for subsequent post processing if you need to work on the image in Photoshop or Lightroom etc but comes at the cost of larger files and slower camera operation. Essentially you start with a tonally richer RAW file which may or may not be significant for you. With my D3s I shoot 14bit by default for landscape and scenic work but for wildlife and action I'll typically shoot at 12bit to get the maximum speed from my camera.
Thanks Graham, I understand, makes sence:thumbs:

CJS
 

RomanJohnston

New member
I'm in the process of, or considering upgrading my D5000 body. Coming from the dim and distant days of 35mm. I have been dragged kicking a screaming in to the world of digital photography. Then I had to learn how to use a camera . . . yeah, point an SLR click and hope it did the job . . . thang god for a good process lab. I was a very amateur jerno., for a while! All past now, nearly retired, I take pictures for my own sake.

I have looked at a D90, almost a sideways move from the D5000? But the D7000, looks great to me? I have picked up on the metering issue . . . all my Nikons have required some 'minus compensation', from -1.0 to -0.3 depending on the situation at hand.

Offering head room in my 'retirement' to really get to grips :toocool: . . . However, I sometimes strugle with techie stuff. How will the 12bit-14bit thing:bugeyes: affect me? . . . New computer? re vamp computer? new pp program? currently use PhotoShop Elements v.7 and v.8? or maybe, stay 'simple' on the D90?

Sorry, if I'm sounding thick . . . but new tech makes me panic, my dyslexic brain struggles sometimes, other times, I breeze through, but I have to be honest, give me a spanner and a hammer and I'm happy:)

CJS
1. Metering should be fine, just gotta get used to the personality of the D7000.
2. 12bit vs 14bit. For putzin around, 12 should be fine. If your getting very serious, then flip to 14bit. Especially if you push your files hard in post processing.

Think of it this way. Think of the color blue. Now think of the range of blues spread across a ladder, from a light fluffy power blue, to dark indigo blue on the other end. Now...think of the rungs on the ladder as dividing lines between each subtle shade change. 12bit gives a you changes in the hundred thousands (less rungs), 14bit gives you in the millions More rungs). Each shade has new shades between for finer transitions from each shade to the next.

You will unusually see this in skies and such where there is actually finer changes. It can help with shadow information as well when you post process and try to pull some information from the shadows.

The D7000 also has more dynamic range as well.

If you never print big and your concerned with file size, then you can open the files in Adobe Camera Raw in either a lesser MP setting or in less PPI. You will still have the original RAW file.

And the D7000 is more robust of a build (more like the D300) but smaller.

Roman
 
C

CJS

Guest
Thanks all I get the idea . . . I'm very worried that the D7000 is by my standards 'over kill' I dont print large, in fact I almost never print! I enjoy my pictures for their own sake on the computer screen. Seems almost a waste of good kit?

However, in retirement, maybe I will start to get more adventures? a bit frightened of my own shadow???? I also panic over requiring new programs to run the new camera files, can I cope . . . :bugeyes: A D90 is the easy option :banghead:

CJS
 
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