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Nikon D3s - Uneven Captures

jvora

Member
Hello :

Am slightly stomped with this issue -

While shooting a 18% Kodak Grey Card ( was trying to calibrate my Light Meter to the D3s's Sensor at Base ISO ) using my Nikon D3s, the Test seems to reveal un-evenness in the results.

Attached please find the Test Result.

This was shot using 2 Strobes on either side of the Grey Card with the camera on a Tripod. The Strobes were set to an approx 45 Degress Angle with no obstruction in the light's path to have caused this issue.

Image shot at X-Sync Speed at f/13.0 using a Nikon 85mm F/1.8 D lens.

I get a similar result when using the 50mm F/1.8 D lens as well.

Any thoughts why the exposure is uneven and that too only on one side ??

Remain worried : (


Jai
 

jvora

Member
My bet is a damaged or sticky shutter curtain, or a problem with the mirror swing.

I REALLY hope that's not the case : /

I did pose the same question on another forum and the suggestion there was NOT to use the max sync speed as there was a chance that the strobes have a longer "flash" duration than what is covered at 1/250th of a sec - The suggestion is to lower the sync speed to 1/125th or even 1/60th.

Actually, it does seem logical - But until I perform the TEST, I cannot say for sure - Will revert with the results.


Thanks,

Jai
 

jvora

Member
Hello :
PHP:
Ok - I FINALLY had the chance to perform the TEST - This time around, I shot at 1/125th and the results are what one would expect - Pretty even - There is some small amount of variation and could be attributed to the age of the Grey Card, ( even though it looks even to the eye ).

I thank each of you for helping me resolve the issue - Shooting at of 1/250th of a second with the strobes ( Elinchrom ) was the issue.



Thanks again !!



Jai
 
Last edited:

robmac

Well-known member
How did you trigger the strobes?

If you used a wireless system, they introduces a triggering delay (time from hitting shutter to converting signal to RF, to it's transmission, to it's reception, to conversion to electrical and then to triggering the strobe) that effectively lowers your max sync speed - say takes 1/50 th + OFF your max sync ability.

If you want max sync speed with studio strobes a good way is an actual sync cable from camera to say key light with other units in room optically slaved off it. No signalling delay.

I can normally shoot 1/160-1/200th with D3S or D800e using pocketwizards or Profoto AiR sync with Profoto or 2 years ago at 1/160th with Canon 1Ds2, etc., using Elinchrom strobes w/Pocket Wizards or Elinchrom's radio system.
 

jvora

Member
In reply -

I used a Sync Cord connecting the Camera to one Strobe while the second strobe fired with its built in slave, ( perhaps I did not need to, but just to be clear ).

So for my set up, a 1/250th of a Sec does not work and from now on in , I will continue to shoot at 1/125th of a Sec or slower all the times.

As many a things, it was a good experience to undergo as a test and not during an actual shoot !

Thanks,

Jai



How did you trigger the strobes?

If you used a wireless system, they introduces a triggering delay (time from hitting shutter to converting signal to RF, to it's transmission, to it's reception, to conversion to electrical and then to triggering the strobe) that effectively lowers your max sync speed - say takes 1/50 th + OFF your max sync ability.

If you want max sync speed with studio strobes a good way is an actual sync cable from camera to say key light with other units in room optically slaved off it. No signalling delay.

I can normally shoot 1/160-1/200th with D3S or D800e using pocketwizards or Profoto AiR sync with Profoto or 2 years ago at 1/160th with Canon 1Ds2, etc., using Elinchrom strobes w/Pocket Wizards or Elinchrom's radio system.
 
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