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Nikon Df

Tim Ernst

New member
Thanks - I'm not good at reading manuals, but will go have a look! That would make me sleep a lot better once I come in out of the cold...
 

D&A

Well-known member
Tim

You should see the ISO display in the VF at the bottom right - at least while you turn or adjust ISO or other exposure values. Obviously you can also display it on the rear LCD too with the info mode selected.

Btw, if you check option d3 and you should have the ISO value displayed instead of the exposure remaining count.
Graham is right! You can set it to show ISO on the bottom right of the Df viewfinder and if I recall correctly (don't have camera in hand at the moment), see the remaining # of frames instead of ISO when you half press the shutter button.

Dave (D&A)
 

D&A

Well-known member
I know this sounds a bit looney, but pre-chill the camera (not the batteries) in a ziplock bag in your freezer. The colder the sensor, the lower the noise.

Just look at my aurora photo in the gallery and you'll see a 25 second exposure taken at -9 degrees F. Keep the batteries in your pocket until you need them.

http://www.getdpi.com/gallery/files/4/3/2a5w0815_fix.jpg
Exactly Brad! I used to stay outside in the cold with past DSLR's prior to shooting Eclipses of the Moon, meteor showers, star trails etc. It does make a noticeable difference.

Very nice image by the way!

Dave (D&A)
 

Tim Ernst

New member
I agree about a cold sensor - the wind chill was down near zero F. while I was doing this test last night so I think we had that one covered. I once did an 8-hour single exposure star trail photo (ISO 200) with a Nikon Ds in 15 degree temp and the image was virtually noise-free. I often am out shooting for 6-8 hours at night here in the warm temps of Arkansas summers and will often duck tape a cold pack to the back of the camera to help keep the sensor cool.
 

docmoore

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Here are a few low ISO daylight captures with the Df.....


Nikon Df Nikon 58 F 1.4



Old Train House Porch







Old Train House Entrance







Old Train House Well and Pulley






Thanks,


Bob
 

docmoore

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Same setting ... some plantings around the structure.



Nikon Df Nikon 58 F 1.4



Old Train House Rose Gone Bye







Old Train House Caboose







Old Train House Tree #5







Old Train House Tree #7






Thanks,


Bob
 

docmoore

Subscriber and Workshop Member
A few native grasses around the structure.....


Nikon Df Nikon 58 F 1.4



Old Train House Grass #1







Old Train House Grass #3






Thanks,


Bob
 

docmoore

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Working with a few older captures from the Df...


Nikon Df



Sewer Color







Beyond the Tree






Thanks,


Bob
 

docmoore

Subscriber and Workshop Member
A few more...


Nikon Df Zeiss 50 F 2 ZF.2



Fence Post and Tree Stump







Distant Tree and Stump







Distant Tree and Barns






Thanks,


Bob
 

docmoore

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Here are a few pics from the Df....kind of slow on this side of the new Sony site....:ROTFL:



Nikon Df



Yaupon Holly







Open Gate







Hawk in Flight (100% Crop)







Wishin' I Were Fishin'






Thanks,


Bob
 

docmoore

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Here are a few with the Df...


Nikon Df Nikon 50 1.8 Kit Lens



Tree Fronts Silos 03







Rail Car Wheels in Yard 03







Treasures in the Yard





Thanks,


Bob
 

kuau

Workshop Member
Can anyone speak to the Live View implementation? How does it compare to the D800?
Basically what I am interested in is what happens when you zoom in for critical manual focus? Does LV get all grainy i.e like the D800?

Steven
 

kuau

Workshop Member
My Df live view is much lower noise when zoomed in than my D800. It's very good.
I ended up renting the DF and the Nikon 45mm PCE lens for a few days.
Wow, what a nice camera and yes the Live View did work better then my D800

Now if I only had the $$$$$$$$$$$$$ to purchase one.
16MP FF for sure has a really nice look to it.
 

Kyndel

Member
Have you tried with noise reduction set to on with the D800E? I do quite a bit of star stuff and if i'm not stacking then there's no problem with the second dark exposure, it actually does quite a good job. I've found with my Zeiss 21 that I can't do longer than 8 seconds without getting star movement, the second 8 second exposure is not a problem for me. The other way is obviously 2 exposures, 1 on the tracking mount for the stars and a second for the foreground at much lower ISO and blend them.

This might sound strange but I have a Sony RX1 which is unbelievable at night, I get cleaner files from that than the D800 but then it's restricted to the 35mm lens.

Have you got any images to show what you are doing?

Cheers

Mat
I have send You an email
 
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