Jack is right, and there is no quick fix. However I shoot art full-time and actually moved away from MFDB to the D800 series because it has enough resolution for 90% of the work I do.
That said, I don't recommend the passport for art repo, there is just not enough colors there for any sort of accurate ICC profile (in terms of art). If you have a little money to invest buy yourself a ColorChecker SG chart (~$300), and then PictoColors InCamera software (
PictoColor inCamera Digital Camera ICC Profile Software, also about $300). The software is old, runs 32bit in CS4-CS6 but does a really good job. Its the standard software recommended for Betterlight users (who long held the art repro market). You can find other software solutions, some free, for the ColorChecker SG chart, but so far it gives the best results for the price. In case you are wondering, X-Rite also has a input profiler option in its iProfiler suite, but it is not optimal, there are weird color transitions sometimes and until they fix it I can't recommend it for input ICCs.
If you are serious about pursuing this with strobe you need something with control that manages flash to flash color balance and flash intensity, which surprisingly can vary quite a bit between shots depending on what power level your strobe is at. PCB Einstein strobes are perfect for this, and are very cost effective. Otherwise you are looking at high-end Broncolor. Getting flash to flash consistency is very important for ICC chart creation, without it there isn't much point. Alternately you can build soft-banks of high color rendering florescent bulbs, like the Philips T950 series bulbs.
Doing the above will get you about 90-95% there for most work, but always there will be some adjustments in photoshop based on what you are shooting, etc.
Another useful thing to throw in is light fall-off correction - if you are not already doing it. Often when I see none repro shooters doing artwork they don't realize how much this is affecting the final image. It is really hard to get perfect illumination for all sizes of artwork, so if using continuous light sources you can shoot a large whiteboard, just make sure it is bigger then the frame. Otherwise you can correct for lens fall-off separately with a LCC type opaque plexi card already mentioned here on the forums. You would then have to correct for lighting fall-off separately in photoshop, etc.
I build ICCs for each photo session and lens change. The ICC creation part is actually pretty straightforward but does add to the processing time - ie: have to output chart files certain way, make ICCs, then apply said ICC to artwork files in Raw software, output at standard settings and then make final tweaks in photoshop.
Hope this helps.